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Help with kitchen renovation/ 1st house.


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As for an external power socket ruining the quaint, quintessential  Welsh cottage thing, it won't! You've already got the light on the eaves and something over the door. If that fussed plastic prime it and spray it white!

 

WAY back my (blue) dpc up the wall and (green) vapour control layer over the face of the battens / Celotex was mentioned & I think was referred to as "belt & double braces". Smell free and draught free bathroom, can't say much more.

 

Your smell WILL dissipate. 

 

One thing I did find helped here was to install soffit vents around the eaves where there were none. Easy fit with a 70mm hole saw. As well as venting the eaves it makes it bloody uncomfortable to vermin to live there.  Reminds me that I still have one elevation  on the house to do and 3 on the garage!

 

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p68777?

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Hi onoff.. I thought I'd post that pic to give you an idea of the house Ext; yes it is a quaint welsh cottage.. with the badly made 70/ 80's extension, & I have been mulling over the Ext socket idea: if its white, & tucked down & L a wee bit it wouldn't be so obvious. I'll think on this.. but I don't have a huge long drill bit, or I'd have thought the torque to get me thru with my ~small bosch (PSB 400-2) hammer drill.. I don't want to burn it out.

 

Understand the soffit hole idea: only caveat being it would introduce cold air: yup good to put off mice, but adding to the loft cold? whcih in turn lessens the impact of the loft insulation a bit-? anyway last on list/ could be done last.

 

Newhome the kitchen loft was Pro done -in 20mins flat- last year: which means they just plonked thick wadding bang ontop the old orange stuff between the joists.. just whacked it on: a major pain if you want to get in there as all the joists covered, I thought way after it was done.. I only saw how they did it after they left of course, assumed this is the correct 'new' way. Got a grant to help me on this, so couldn't/ can't sniff at it at all.

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Actually onoff the Ext Pic is the end of house (the sink wall2 Im now doing), not the front.. & this nasty swivel light will be gone as soon as I get up there. Will add pic of front later.

 

You can see into the back door (howden's "engineered core" cr*p with seals falling out, bowed -in 6 months- due to damp atmosphere.. demanded my money back from builder who fitted it way too fast/ bad job) into 2sqM hall-utility room I call it, then Left into kitchen.

 

So I do have to consider this 'leaky-cold' entry point/ tiny back hall-UT bit after kitchen done (with old single thin window/ to replace with UPVC: to do next- easy enough I'd think even for muggins here!). No door into the kitchen from the hall-UT.. no room to open.. just a door frame.

 

So all 3 rooms within this 70/ 80's extension. 1 tiddler 'hall/ UT', very small bathroom, kitchen.

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You might say that I was a DG window virgin until a little while ago. Fitted a couple as per this (sometimes off track) thread. First window I foamed in, second one done with Compriband and minimal foam. You might find something useful in there:

 

 

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Lidl often have some great deals on long drill bit sets. Think I've got a 450mm long set and a 1m long set. They both include a 20/22mm ideal for a bit of conduit thru the wall. One thing is that they might be an SDS Plus fitting. Ideally you want an SDS drill. As my Makita SDS needs surgery at the mo I bought a Lidl £29.99 SDS cheapo job. Proved it's worth a few times tbh.

 

However...fit the front handle to your existing Bosch drill and you'd likely get thru those walls with one of these thru a knocked out hole in the back of the existing socket box:

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/straight-shank-masonry-dril-bit-20-x-400mm/3220V?

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Ah good to know you didn't dismiss my drill (front handle always on).. well, maybe I could drill thru after all then.. I know s'one I could maybe borrow a long bit. What dia needed/ what would be shoving thru, a pvc pipe or something?

 

This window demolish & UPVC replace.. boy am I looking fwd to: I bet I could fit that in less time its taken me to prep this sill for the pB!! I'm embarrassed to say how long.. won't.. only finally, the whole wall's prepped for the reveal pB, & main wall pB's.

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I'm still unsure tbh onoff.. you see here is the front/ pink marks spot (of an angled-down hole thru).so would rather stand out.

 

If it could go <Left, next to the logstore it would be alot better but I bet that complicates the job alot.

 

 

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53 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

I'm still unsure tbh onoff.. you see here is the front/ pink marks spot (of an angled-down hole thru).so would rather stand out.

 

If it could go <Left, next to the logstore it would be alot better but I bet that complicates the job alot.

 

 

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Behave! Telephone & electric poles along with DG windows aren't original nor is plastic guttering, just fit the socket as suggested. Best take down and TV aerials too for originality! :) The linked drill from Screwfix, is that long enough?

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I used to have cats - they were the ones that brought mice into the house to play with, often the mouse got away and hid and the cats lost interest.  I have a picture somewhere of the cats asleep on the sofa with the mouse sat daintily on their food bowl stuffing its face.  

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Cats + mice in my house same time is the stuff of nightmares for me. Anyway, I'm so proud of my shelf Ive spent over a day doing I'm loathed to put any pB on it now. might leave as is.. PREP DONE THO!

 

 

 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Cats + mice in my house same time is the stuff of nightmares for me. Anyway, I'm so proud of my shelf Ive spent over a day doing I'm loathed to put any pB on it now. might leave as is.. PREP DONE THO!

 

 

 

 

 

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And rightly so! 

 

For all that whinging and whining you've proved YOU CAN! 

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Easier to cope when Im not in pain &/or having major codeine withdrawl mind you.

 

Cheers chaps. Hard bit done, I'm hoping. Im struggling most with the soudal can, it & me are a match made in hell! (this is why this shelf took me over a day). Gun jams each time I leave it on the can, screw thing in or out. Will be glad not to have to use it again after gluing the 3 reveal bits to do. I wonder if there's any other alternative low expansion can: one thing I find it useless for is filling small gaps- well the cutting the excess/ a disaster each time I trim, as even with a new stanley blade at the shallowest angle I find it just pulls the stuff out most of the time rather than trimming.. its due to the friction of the 2 materials I think. That's with over a day cured too. I just can't get the knack of it + the gun at all.

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1 minute ago, zoothorn said:

Easier to cope when Im not in pain &/or having major codeine withdrawl mind you.

 

Cheers chaps. Hard bit done, I'm hoping. Im struggling most with the soudal can, it & me are a match made in hell! (this is why this shelf took me over a day). Gun jams each time I leave it on the can, screw thing in or out. Will be glad not to have to use it again after gluing the 3 reveal bits to do. I wonder if there's any other alternative low expansion can: one thing I find it useless for is filling small gaps- well the cutting the excess/ a disaster each time I trim, as even with a new stanley blade at the shallowest angle I find it just pulls the stuff out most of the time rather than trimming.. its due to the friction of the 2 materials I think. That's with over a day cured too. I just can't get the knack of it + the gun at all.

 

Use a bendy old bread knife or blade from a hacksaw to cut foam flush to the surface you have just filled.

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Sounds like you need a way of keeping the draught out of the kitchen from that entrance porch / utility. What do you have planned for that? Internal door to separate the rooms or something? 

 

 

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Its a good Q newhome. A (dividing door between UT & kitchen) is n/a as I just don't have the room to open one either way, plus it would have to be very thick to keep back the cold from the UT & bathroom. So its a Q of big FO thick curtain against the back door, redo the seals around it -properly-, & replace the UT very thin single pane window for a DG UPVC. More than that I just don't have the means to do, I don't think.

Edited by zoothorn
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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

 

Use a bendy old bread knife or blade from a hacksaw to cut foam flush to the surface you have just filled.

 

Bugger that was the thing for the job! done it all now- thank gawd. Its all downhill form now onoff....

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4 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

Bugger that was the thing for the job! done it all now- thank gawd. Its all downhill form now onoff....

 

I even posted a picture of my foam trimming weapon of choice on 30 July... :)

 

 

 

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46 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

I even posted a picture of my foam trimming weapon of choice on 30 July... :)

 

 

 

 

You did & I remember.. I just got it mixed up with weapon of choice for cutting turf, for some reason that was put into my memory bank (as I use mine to cut turf).

 

Thing is, with all the great info given.. bc Im overloaded with xyz new tools, xyz new jobs, & xyz new info to take on board.. I will innevitably forget a few things: don't though assume tho that I haven't read your posts. Not a bit of it, I read them all more than once (often 3x with gratitude each time- even if it might not seem like it).

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Right almost ready for the pb4. This one's going RHS here, & interrupted by the TAP. What's the best way to cut the pB with this in mind-? just a big safe ">" cut in/ job done? or is that too lax.

 

The pB's all go ~flush to ceiling, leaving a 4" high gap along btm to the floor all way round. Do I need to fill this gap behind cabinets, or leave it? I guess for the wall without cabinets (4ft or so Width) where you'll see this gap.. I can cover with skirting strip maybe: best idea?

 

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