zoothorn Posted August 24, 2018 Author Share Posted August 24, 2018 Ok Ive got the brass nuts undone, & 2 pipes can now come fwd. But the grey placcy waste pipe behind the white, is tight in a hole in the backpanel. If I undo where you said, @ the 2 white pipe points, this grey section will still be fixed onto something behind the backpanel > so unit cannot come out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 24, 2018 Share Posted August 24, 2018 I expect it’s an elbow outside the wall ... to look outside and take a photo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 24, 2018 Author Share Posted August 24, 2018 Right will go look.. Ive got the white placcy section off, so just the grey section to figure out.. I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 24, 2018 Author Share Posted August 24, 2018 There's an elbow outside yes.. but its 2 ft lower than this exit point of the grey @ back panel. Pink [] marks grey pipe exit inside cabinet. Inside the cabinet, grey pipe seems to be in segments, how are these fitted together.. if I could undo them up to this hole, I'm there aren't I? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 24, 2018 Author Share Posted August 24, 2018 I just pulled the damn grey pipe thing apart.. RIGHT I'm there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 24, 2018 Author Share Posted August 24, 2018 But what's the idea next.. to take the sink out, or the top & sink? Am I 1st cutting the pipes at your blue marks, then taking sink up-? Im not sure whether I'm using some/ any/ most all of the pipework again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 24, 2018 Author Share Posted August 24, 2018 Ok I had to rip alot of it up/ driving me insane tbh.. & progress. But a world of pain awaits.. look at the state of this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 24, 2018 Share Posted August 24, 2018 Hey that’s good !! looks like you have found your main stop tap coming out of the floor and a bit of funky waste there too ....! looks like the tap in the top pipe closes off your outside tap so that needs to be accessible if possible in the cupboard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 24, 2018 Author Share Posted August 24, 2018 Actually that tap doesn't work.. not needed as main outside tap is separate, then these 2 ISO valves now. Was v. concerned about the electrical wires.. but seems they're grounds just painted. Odd place to ground them on the copper pipes: why? so I have 2 disconnected now as you can see. What should I do w'these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted August 24, 2018 Share Posted August 24, 2018 Thunderbirds are go! You can start the battens now away from the plumbing bits in between waiting for plumbing answers. You already know how to do that now plus sort out the cill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 24, 2018 Author Share Posted August 24, 2018 Yes I can do the sill & some of the battens.. but lordy how the heck am I gonna go around all this stuff?? I can't think of it now.. it'll be next week anyway. I see where the wretched mice have been coming in now.. like onoff said around the waste wall exit place/ big hole next to pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 24, 2018 Share Posted August 24, 2018 Gut feel is that the mice might be getting into the cavity somewhere then coming inside thru that bfo hole as it looks well sealed outside. Always unpleasant. That will need blocking up with a carefully bolstered lump of brick NOT FOAM! You could even break up a glass bottle when you mix your mortar up to fit the brick. Mind your fingers! (A lot of the old places down here have an over site of broken glass before a weak floor slab went down). Mice can get thru a hole the diameter of a pencil. Those pipes thru the close fitting holes in the cupboard back panel probably did you a favour! Is the floor there concrete? Are the rest of the floors concrete or suspended timber floors? Have a bloody good clean up / disinfect. Block the hole up then take stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 24, 2018 Author Share Posted August 24, 2018 I've prepped the window/ just got sill mortar to do tmrw (I'll foamonster2 sill cavity this ev).. so maybe you can direct me on that block-up idea tmrw. I'm sure the mice are in the wall cavites yes.. in theory then once I block hole up they can't get in, so RIP in cavities.. I'd hope. One thing I touched on before/ a Q: if mice in cavities, then I guess they have access to & from the loft above kitchen, bc the top of cavities are 'open' not closed as a basic build rule.. is that correct? I'm thinking along the cold getting in here, the priority, rather than mice per se. I put the tight fitting stuff around the pipes in cupboard back recently, as mice got in here (also on worktops now & then.. urgh.. so would be good to tighten this situation up seriously first off). Floor is concrete, with zero insulation I can just feel it so (your feet/ lower legs feel the cold 1st). Tbh I think this is where the majority of the cold's coming from, but, I guess I can't do anything about it can I? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 24, 2018 Author Share Posted August 24, 2018 Chaps what's the deal with my 3 green/ yellow ground wires terminating at the copper pipes (or were- they're disconnected now that section's removed)-? I saw similar in the bathhroom iirc. weird. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 24, 2018 Share Posted August 24, 2018 The yellow/green wires are to do with equipotential bonding. It relates to the likely fact your electrical installation is of a particular age. Under current regulations the bonding requirements have lessened IF certain other criteria are met. (You might remember earlier I mentioned as to whether that kitchen double socket was part of a ring main and whether it had RCD protection). The only person who can tell you what's what on this is a man on the ground in the form of a bona fide electrician coming in to do an EICR - Electrical Inspection Condition Report. We're pissing in the dark trying to judge from crap photos to some extent. Is the wire from the incoming stop cock thicker than the others? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 24, 2018 Author Share Posted August 24, 2018 There's one that's thicker yes.. but where it comes from who knows it goes into the wall & up with the others. (equipotential bonding.. it was on the tip of my tongue!) I could connect them onto the pipes that remain before the valves-? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 24, 2018 Share Posted August 24, 2018 (edited) 23 minutes ago, zoothorn said: There's one that's thicker yes.. but where it comes from who knows it goes into the wall & up with the others. (equipotential bonding.. it was on the tip of my tongue!) I could connect them onto the pipes that remain before the valves-? Keep 'em connected. Just 'cos an electrical installation is done to a previous edition doesn't mean it's inherently unsafe. A lot to be said for bonding imo. Do you have a separate "main earth terminal" near the consumer unit screwed to the back board with various green and yellow "circuit protective conductors" terminating. Something like this. We're going down a whole new rabbit hole here btw! Edited August 24, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 25, 2018 Author Share Posted August 25, 2018 Hi onoff.. yup similar next to consumer unit (crabtree iirc): 1x BIG gnd in from above, to a big junction here > joins power Co's BIG gnd lead coming in thru wall below. Leccy this end good; my unit repositioned by a pro recently (& new Pwr Co's lead in below only months ago too). I've disinfected area, eps in sill cavity.. & foamTHING2 has been innitiated. If I can I now ask you further on this mouse hole job. I have mortar mix & glass jar if needs be (I guess so if mice gnaw > no likey?). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 (edited) I REALLY struggle with your abbreviated style sometimes... We (at least I) am going to forget all about the earth cables. Just leave them on the pipes. The hole: Dig out what looks like a bit of expanding foam on the left hand edge of the hole. Vac round the hole to clear the loose debris and dust. Channel your inner Michelangelo and shape with a bolster and hammer a piece of brick that fits that hole with no more than 10mm gaps all around it. Mix some mortar and in the mix chuck some finely smashed up glass. Work it into the hole around the pipe / the gaps around the shaped block. This is an old soil pipe hole I had to contend with: I core cut a bit of lightweight block: To hold in place: I tried foam but could still feel a draught. I used therefore an epoxy "mortar" that comes in a gun to completely seal the thing in there. (You can btw get epoxy resin like this in tubes that fit a standard mastic gun but you need a new nozzle each time). You do not have the core drill, besides the hole shape doesn't suit it. Nor to you have the resin gun kit or I doubt a mortar gun. You need to shape, by hand, with a bolster and chisel something to go in that irregular shaped hole. Try and taper it a bit so you can gently knock it in and it stays there while you get the mortar in all round. EDIT: Oh and its Mickey not Mikey Mouse! Edited August 25, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 What about the waste pipe that goes through the wall? Doesn't that need to be somewhat loose so it can be pulled out if necessary? Or can it be stuck fast with the mortar? Also for later, there looks to be enough space to get the insulation and PB behind the grey waste pipe, but what about those copper pipes pressed right up against the wall? Do they get put behind the PB or do they have to be moved out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 A tip for mixing up mortar and filling small holes like this: Make up a milk container of 5:1 water/PVA. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. Soak the gap you're filling and use instead of water to make up your mortar mix. Sticks like the proverbial to a blanket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 (edited) 12 minutes ago, newhome said: What about the waste pipe that goes through the wall? Doesn't that need to be somewhat loose so it can be pulled out if necessary? Or can it be stuck fast with the mortar? Also for later, there looks to be enough space to get the insulation and PB behind the grey waste pipe, but what about those copper pipes pressed right up against the wall? Do they get put behind the PB or do they have to be moved out? It'd come out with a good twist if need be. Wrap a bit of stiff plastic (dpm, etc) round the pipe and tape before filling round it - that'd give enough "slip" if worried. For later access to these pipes and that they look a bit green. I would replace them personally, in copper but with Hep2O fittings (for ease/speed) and bring down the face of the new pb and along. Can't see the op doing that though. I'd be worried about leaving soldered joints "in" the new wall. Edited August 25, 2018 by Onoff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 25, 2018 Author Share Posted August 25, 2018 Ok thanks chaps, & for the suggestions onoff- I'm doing the shelf mortar tmrw, so will do mouse hole as you suggest with a brick & the mortar + 5:1 pva/ water.. & a slip around placcy pipe a good idea, thx Peter. When you say soak the gap tho, do you mean a mist spray (as per pre-soudal), or a big soak with a paintbrush? (& with the 5:1 or water?) Progress today.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 25, 2018 Share Posted August 25, 2018 Paint brush & slop it, 5:1 water (5 of water, 1 of PVA), in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 25, 2018 Author Share Posted August 25, 2018 Ok will do that. Progress seems snail slow I know.. but alot of horrible mouse bleach cleaning.. plus.. Im now into codeine withdrawl = v. bad sleep/ fkn grumpy, weak. At least Im back on the beer tho. Now 1 thing I haven't got due to my fiasco 1st time, is enough PIR for all 4x this bigger window sill area: only enough for 2x sides & either top or btm. No point spending £25 for another sheet surely, esp if I've no room to store remainder. Must be a compromise: Your suggestion if you will: PIR top + pb sill.. or PIR sill + pb top? (Btw I edited the mousehole pic, with a "^ C" for miCkey.. mm kay now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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