PeterW Posted June 23, 2020 Posted June 23, 2020 I still cuprinol over everything - just for consistency. If you wanted to get on you could just tag the end of each board with one screw, and when the new screws arrive you can add them where needed and take the temporary ones out. First job would be make some nice posts, and rout the tops/sides to make it look nice. Then fit them to the frame so they are plumb and square. The post on the corner can be fitted a couple of ways, one would be cut a section of 3x3 and insert it inside the corner and glue/screw in place. Then cut the outer corner off at 45 degrees from the frame to give you a "flat" section of frame. Screw the new post to the face of this angled corner, through the corner and into the block on the inside.
zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Posted June 23, 2020 On 23/06/2020 at 14:28, PeterW said: Expand Ok must remember to turbo the lower one inside out, once boards on. On 23/06/2020 at 15:18, PeterW said: I still cuprinol over everything - just for consistency. If you wanted to get on you could just tag the end of each board with one screw, and when the new screws arrive you can add them where needed and take the temporary ones out. First job would be make some nice posts, and rout the tops/sides to make it look nice. Then fit them to the frame so they are plumb and square. The post on the corner can be fitted a couple of ways, one would be cut a section of 3x3 and insert it inside the corner and glue/screw in place. Then cut the outer corner off at 45 degrees from the frame to give you a "flat" section of frame. Screw the new post to the face of this angled corner, through the corner and into the block on the inside. Expand Just cuprinol'd the joist/ nog tops & all the joints.. not enough left for whole shebang, & must crack on with deck tmrw. Ok so now I'm onto these posts. I understand how to fix them, good. But how I could rout the top/ sides to make nice.. I've no idea tho: what were you thinking as possible plan of attack/ result? a dome top or s'thing? Ok 1st thing is what kind of post do you suggest? rough tannalised 3x3, is that the idea? if I could get a plan together today I could get tmrw.
PeterW Posted June 23, 2020 Posted June 23, 2020 I would just run a rounding over bit over the tops and sides and then job done. Just give them a quick sand over and screw them on.
Onoff Posted June 23, 2020 Posted June 23, 2020 On 23/06/2020 at 14:19, zoothorn said: Ok so when you say coach bolt, do you mean these turbos I have? Expand This is an M10 coach bolt in stainless steel. See the square section on the shank, under the head? You drill a 10mm hole then tap the bolt home. The square wedges in the round hole and stops it turning whilst you wind the nut on. The one above has makers marks on the head but you can get them without. I used them on my front gate. Gives nice pinpoints of light against the black (imo). If using bright zinc plated coach bolts you can coat the shaft in grease where it passes through the wood. 1
zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Posted June 23, 2020 @Onoff you've done me proud. Put my deck boards (loose) stuck on a chair, popped my 1st cider, evening sun.. & its a knockout! a total winner of a deck/ design/ the whole base. Perfect space for 1 to sit, good for 2, & the floaty cantilever feel works like a BOSS, so much so I'm inclined to do without front posts/rope. I think. Rock solid too of course. Your design gets 11 zootstars.. diolch Onoff. 1
zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Posted June 23, 2020 On 23/06/2020 at 16:11, PeterW said: I would just run a rounding over bit over the tops and sides and then job done. Just give them a quick sand over and screw them on. Expand Understand it now/ great that's easy & quick too. What posts tho? I have 3x2 & 3x3, but tannalised to hand.. be useful to use up instead of forking out for new stuff. I think maybe I'm going for -just- a 'barrier' of post/rope on my 1.4m stream-side now. Nothing on the 2.3m front: sitting 1st time on my deck, its so good its almost a shame to interrupt the 'seamless' aspect of the cantilevered deck > garden > house, even if there's a drop (only half of it anyway 'big').. you gotta be a big muppet to come a cropper.
PeterW Posted June 23, 2020 Posted June 23, 2020 3x3 is fine and if you use rope between the posts you won't see it tbh and you'll be glad to hold onto it when you do go slightly too far forward after a beer..
Tennentslager Posted June 23, 2020 Posted June 23, 2020 Unless and I don’t think you have little people open plan is simple and neat. 3 year old nieces may fall in the stream but doubt they will drown, 7 year olds will swing underneath and laugh?
Onoff Posted June 23, 2020 Posted June 23, 2020 On 23/06/2020 at 18:36, zoothorn said: @Onoff you've done me proud. Put my deck boards (loose) stuck on a chair, popped my 1st cider, evening sun.. & its a knockout! a total winner of a deck/ design/ the whole base. Perfect space for 1 to sit, good for 2, & the floaty cantilever feel works like a BOSS, so much so I'm inclined to do without front posts/rope. I think. Rock solid too of course. Your design gets 11 zootstars.. diolch Onoff. Expand Good feeling, pleased for you? Two bottles of Henry Westons Vintage Cider at 8.2% on a hot day like this and your spatial awareness might become a tad impaired. (Ask me how I know). Not the time to be reconsidering handrail when you're looking up at the sky at a funny angle wondering how you got there! ? On a serious note...I wonder how you would stand if say a neighbour's kid crept in to play on the thing and fell off, ditto a visitor.
zoothorn Posted June 23, 2020 Author Posted June 23, 2020 On 23/06/2020 at 22:41, Onoff said: Good feeling, pleased for you? Two bottles of Henry Westons Vintage Cider at 8.2% on a hot day like this and your spatial awareness might become a tad impaired. (Ask me how I know). Not the time to be reconsidering handrail when you're looking up at the sky at a funny angle wondering how you got there! ? On a serious note...I wonder how you would stand if say a neighbour's kid crept in to play on the thing and fell off, ditto a visitor. Expand Crikey I'd fall in my stream after a few of those.. no its Bulmers for me (seriously good 4.5%). The handrail for stream side can wait now/ no urgency whilst I consider, & drink cider. I don't even think a need for other corner support (under) post either. Be nice but no kids here- nephews only possibles & they're 10+. Seriously- if my sod n'bors grandkids came over, I'd gladly push them off. Its deck tmrw.. then asap back onto my reveals sanding marathon (urgh).
Onoff Posted June 23, 2020 Posted June 23, 2020 On 23/06/2020 at 23:00, zoothorn said: Bulmers for me (seriously good 4.5%) Expand Tastes like lager coming up! ?
zoothorn Posted June 25, 2020 Author Posted June 25, 2020 Anyone used these deck boards can recommend some good (not the costliest) treatment gubbins?
zoothorn Posted June 27, 2020 Author Posted June 27, 2020 Can smooth tannalised 6x3 etc be creosoted or is it only suitable for rough-sawn timber? I'm wanting to treat the 6x3 base, & pillars etc.. but cuprionol not as effective, & twice the cost (I can source creosote @ farmers rate). I'm also wondering about the strong smell- if its not best suited to being under the cabin & under deck. Thanks, zH
PeterW Posted June 27, 2020 Posted June 27, 2020 Yes creosote (or creocote now) is solvent based and will go over tantalised timber.
zoothorn Posted June 28, 2020 Author Posted June 28, 2020 On 27/06/2020 at 21:42, PeterW said: Yes creosote (or creocote now) is solvent based and will go over tantalised timber. Expand Ok so I could use then.. but given the strong odour, if I cover base under deck, outer cabin square 'frame' & pillars- is it not gonna spoil my sitting out or even sleeping in the cambrian alpine chalet do you think?
zoothorn Posted July 23, 2020 Author Posted July 23, 2020 @PeterW & @Onoff Pretty much finished.. just got to renew two diddy windows, colour darker than usual due to existing surface of logs.. but seems to have turned out fine, a sort of antiquey look maybe. Hugely appreciate the help from all on this project- couldn't have worked out better. zoot. 3
Onoff Posted July 24, 2020 Posted July 24, 2020 Looks excellent ? Will you stain the deck? Fit handrail? Second picture down, don't now how tall you or your friends are but there's no chance of catching your head on the pointy end of that fascia board is there? I did exactly that on my dwarf nephew's shed. On the third or so occasion I got his jigsaw and rounded it off! Fascia just above the oval wooden sign: (I am a bit taller than most mind).
zoothorn Posted July 29, 2020 Author Posted July 29, 2020 @Onoff that looks great- I'd love to have mine a bity more rustic. very characterful. No- I just avoid the pointy stepping up onto deck, thankfully. Deck is 'stained' as is/ tho only 2x coats of nononsense water based stuff, clear. Its fine tbh/ will weather & darken a bit. No side rail- may do next year just stream side. Cheers PeterW- yes hugely proud, the idea of buying this s/h & rebuilding it.. with sections stored over the shop in my house & under a leaky tarp 6 months, I never thought I'd get it up let alone looking this good.. thought it might be a write-off stupid idea. cheers- zoot.
zoothorn Posted August 29, 2020 Author Posted August 29, 2020 (edited) ,, Edited August 29, 2020 by zoothorn
zoothorn Posted May 10, 2021 Author Posted May 10, 2021 (edited) Hi- back to this log cabin job. Guttering advice if someone would please. One side only, top LHS needs guttering. Would you just use standard roofing 'square Marley flowline' stuff? as you get brown it'll blend in, but a bit big/ heavy duty for a cabin I'm wondering/ not correct for the job-? Does it need dedicated 'cabin guttering' I wonder, fixing brackets to consider with the extra area of roof overhang they have (compared to my extention's plastic soffit only 1 to 2 " away from the very edge of roof slates the brackets attatch to). Afaict dedicated cabin gutter brackets attatch to the roof edge, use a 65mm or 100mm gutter. The normal roof gutters like Marley have brackets designed to fix to soffits with a bit wider (than 100mm) 4.5" width gutter .. so I'd need to fettle additional wood packing to get me out to the right position if using Marley brackets: not too difficult using the 12cm 'excess' section of walls that protrude I could attatch packing to. thanks- zoot schmoot Edited May 10, 2021 by zoothorn
Onoff Posted May 10, 2021 Posted May 10, 2021 Use mini guttering: https://www.guttersupplies.co.uk/mini-gutters/mini-gutters-for-sheds-greenhouses/
zoothorn Posted May 10, 2021 Author Posted May 10, 2021 On 10/05/2021 at 11:04, Onoff said: Use mini guttering: https://www.guttersupplies.co.uk/mini-gutters/mini-gutters-for-sheds-greenhouses/ Expand Wow simple as that.. & spent ages trawling 'log cabin gutters' (& bought various full size flowline bits few weeks ago too/ i can now rtn). So simple when you know what to look for! great- thx
PeterW Posted May 10, 2021 Posted May 10, 2021 You need these to support it https://www.plasticdrainage.co.uk/rafter-top-gutter-bracket-2-9365.html
Onoff Posted May 10, 2021 Posted May 10, 2021 (edited) How's the cabin and decking looking / standing up? Do you use it much? Edited May 10, 2021 by Onoff
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