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Basework on slope/ cabin.


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I still cuprinol over everything - just for consistency.

 

If you wanted to get on you could just tag the end of each board with one screw, and when the new screws arrive you can add them where needed and take the temporary ones out.

 

First job would be make some nice posts, and rout the tops/sides to make it look nice. Then fit them to the frame so they are plumb and square. The post on the corner can be fitted a couple of ways, one would be cut a section of 3x3 and insert it inside the corner and glue/screw in place. Then cut the outer corner off at 45 degrees from the frame to give you a "flat" section of frame. Screw the new post to the face of this angled corner, through the corner and into the block on the inside.

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1 hour ago, PeterW said:

 

 

Ok must remember to turbo the lower one inside out, once boards on.

 

12 minutes ago, PeterW said:

I still cuprinol over everything - just for consistency.

 

If you wanted to get on you could just tag the end of each board with one screw, and when the new screws arrive you can add them where needed and take the temporary ones out.

 

First job would be make some nice posts, and rout the tops/sides to make it look nice. Then fit them to the frame so they are plumb and square. The post on the corner can be fitted a couple of ways, one would be cut a section of 3x3 and insert it inside the corner and glue/screw in place. Then cut the outer corner off at 45 degrees from the frame to give you a "flat" section of frame. Screw the new post to the face of this angled corner, through the corner and into the block on the inside.

 

Just cuprinol'd the joist/ nog tops & all the joints.. not enough left for whole shebang, & must crack on with deck tmrw.

 

Ok so now I'm onto these posts. I understand how to fix them, good. But how I could rout the top/ sides to make nice.. I've no idea tho: what were you thinking as possible plan of attack/ result? a dome top or s'thing?

 

Ok 1st thing is what kind of post do you suggest? rough tannalised 3x3, is that the idea? if I could get a plan together today I could get tmrw.

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1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

Ok so when you say coach bolt, do you mean these turbos I have?

 

This is an M10 coach bolt in stainless steel. See the square section on the shank, under the head?

 

You drill a 10mm hole then tap the bolt home. The square wedges in the round hole and stops it turning whilst you wind the nut on. 

 

20200623_170151.thumb.jpg.7cf25a4c85e6183e900f41915bcd1b8c.jpg

 

20200623_170209.thumb.jpg.9ec994f44311543d05ba290aa0911ad0.jpg

 

The one above has makers marks on the head but you can get them without. I used them on my front gate. Gives nice pinpoints of light against the black (imo).

 

SAM_8560

 

If using bright zinc plated coach bolts you can coat the shaft in grease where it passes through the wood.

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@Onoff you've done me proud. Put my deck boards (loose) stuck on a chair, popped my 1st cider, evening sun.. & its a knockout! a total winner of a deck/ design/ the whole base. Perfect space for 1 to sit, good for 2, & the floaty cantilever feel works like a BOSS, so much so I'm inclined to do without front posts/rope. I think. Rock solid too of course. Your design gets 11 zootstars.. diolch Onoff.

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2 hours ago, PeterW said:

I would just run a rounding over bit over the tops and sides and then job done. Just give them a quick sand over and screw them on. 

 

Understand it now/ great that's easy & quick too. What posts tho? I have 3x2 & 3x3, but tannalised to hand.. be useful to use up instead of forking out for new stuff.

 

I think maybe I'm going for -just- a 'barrier' of post/rope on my 1.4m stream-side now. Nothing on the 2.3m front: sitting 1st time on my deck, its so good its almost a shame to interrupt the 'seamless' aspect of the cantilevered deck > garden > house, even if there's a drop (only half of it anyway 'big').. you gotta be a big muppet to come a cropper.

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3 hours ago, zoothorn said:

@Onoff you've done me proud. Put my deck boards (loose) stuck on a chair, popped my 1st cider, evening sun.. & its a knockout! a total winner of a deck/ design/ the whole base. Perfect space for 1 to sit, good for 2, & the floaty cantilever feel works like a BOSS, so much so I'm inclined to do without front posts/rope. I think. Rock solid too of course. Your design gets 11 zootstars.. diolch Onoff.

 

Good feeling, pleased for you?

 

Two bottles of Henry Westons Vintage Cider at 8.2% on a hot day like this and your spatial awareness might become a tad impaired. (Ask me how I know). Not the time to be reconsidering handrail when you're looking up at the sky at a funny angle wondering how you got there! ?

 

On a serious note...I wonder how you would stand if say a neighbour's kid crept in to play on the thing and fell off, ditto a visitor.

 

 

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7 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Good feeling, pleased for you?

 

Two bottles of Henry Westons Vintage Cider at 8.2% on a hot day like this and your spatial awareness might become a tad impaired. (Ask me how I know). Not the time to be reconsidering handrail when you're looking up at the sky at a funny angle wondering how you got there! ?

 

On a serious note...I wonder how you would stand if say a neighbour's kid crept in to play on the thing and fell off, ditto a visitor.

 

 

 

Crikey I'd fall in my stream after a few of those.. no its Bulmers for me (seriously good 4.5%). The handrail for stream side can wait now/ no urgency whilst I consider, & drink cider. I don't even think a need for other corner support (under) post either.

 

Be nice but no kids here- nephews only possibles & they're 10+. Seriously- if my sod n'bors grandkids came over, I'd gladly push them off.

 

Its deck tmrw.. then asap back onto my reveals sanding marathon (urgh).

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Can smooth tannalised 6x3 etc be creosoted or is it only suitable for rough-sawn timber?

 

I'm wanting to treat the 6x3 base, & pillars etc.. but cuprionol not as effective, & twice the cost (I can source creosote @ farmers rate).

 

I'm also wondering about the strong smell- if its not best suited to being under the cabin & under deck.

 

Thanks, zH

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10 hours ago, PeterW said:

Yes creosote (or creocote now) is solvent based and will go over tantalised timber. 

 

Ok so I could use then.. but given the strong odour, if I cover base under deck, outer cabin square 'frame' & pillars- is it not gonna spoil my sitting out or even sleeping in the cambrian alpine chalet do you think?

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  • 4 weeks later...

@PeterW & @Onoff Pretty much finished.. just got to renew two diddy windows, colour darker than usual due to existing surface of logs.. but seems to have turned out fine, a sort of antiquey look maybe.

 

Hugely appreciate the help from all on this project- couldn't have worked out better. zoot.

 

 

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Looks excellent ?

 

Will you stain the deck? Fit handrail?

 

Second picture down, don't now how tall you or your friends are but there's no chance of catching your head on the pointy end of that fascia board is there? I did exactly that on my dwarf nephew's shed. On the third or so occasion I got his jigsaw and rounded it off!

 

Fascia just above the oval wooden sign:

 

IMG_1973

 

(I am a bit taller than most mind).

 

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@Onoff that looks great- I'd love to have mine a bity more rustic. very characterful. No- I just avoid the pointy stepping up onto deck, thankfully. Deck is 'stained' as is/ tho only 2x coats of nononsense water based stuff, clear. Its fine tbh/ will weather & darken a bit. No side rail- may do next year just stream side.

 

Cheers PeterW- yes hugely proud, the idea of buying this s/h & rebuilding it.. with sections stored over the shop in my house & under a leaky tarp 6 months, I never thought I'd get it up let alone looking this good.. thought it might be a write-off stupid idea.

 

cheers- zoot.

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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...

Hi- back to this log cabin job. Guttering advice if someone would please.

 

One side only, top LHS needs guttering. Would you just use standard roofing 'square Marley flowline' stuff? as you get brown it'll blend in, but a bit big/ heavy duty for a cabin I'm wondering/ not correct for the job-?

 

Does it need dedicated 'cabin guttering' I wonder, fixing brackets to consider with the extra area of roof overhang they have (compared to my extention's plastic soffit only 1 to 2 " away from the very edge of roof slates the brackets attatch to).

 

Afaict dedicated cabin gutter brackets attatch to the roof edge, use a 65mm or 100mm gutter. The normal roof gutters like Marley have brackets designed to fix to soffits with a bit wider (than 100mm) 4.5" width gutter .. so I'd need to fettle additional wood packing to get me out to the right position if using Marley brackets: not too difficult using the 12cm 'excess' section of walls that protrude I could attatch packing to.

 

thanks- zoot schmoot

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25 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Wow simple as that.. & spent ages trawling 'log cabin gutters' (& bought various full size flowline bits few weeks ago too/ i can now rtn).  So simple when you know what to look for!

 

great- thx

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