Tin Soldier Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 HI there, My architect specified that the window openings in my sips kit were 50mm bigger than window size to allow for 25mm on insulation to be installed all round for the window to sit in. How does this work in practice? Rationel specify a 3mm galvanized strap attached to window and timber kit, which, I guess would screw through the insulation and into the kit? Is this strong enough? will it matter that theres insulation in between window jamb and kit? As for the windows themselves they will sit on the sips kit at varying depths dependent on final finish. the timber clad bit the windows will see 65mm sit on the kit, with the remains of the window overhanging the cavity (and its timber firestop). As it overhangs the cavity do I continue the insulation out over the timber firestop or cut it short at the end of the panel? does any of this make sense? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tin Soldier Posted April 5, 2018 Author Share Posted April 5, 2018 Also, I no longer converse with said architect, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudda Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 Coincidence: I’m an architect and had a meeting with a timber frame manufacture just this morning asking him to make all the opes 50mm larger as well. I’ve created a detail where the window blinds are hidden from view and a birch ply window surround frames the view. See below. As for the insulation in your situation you should be fine but I’m not 100% following the detail. Is the insulation only the depth of the window frame or the depth of the ope? Have you a drawing you can show us? 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexphd1 Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 @Dudda i like the concealed roller blind detail! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpd Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 10 minutes ago, Alexphd1 said: i like the concealed roller blind detail! Yes very nice, i have been planning on redoing the blinds in one of our caravans and intend to do the same, hiding it in the back of the overhead shelving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 (edited) We did a similar design for a house just outside Glasgow for the concealed blind (by others). We also do concealed venetians externally as part of the windows system and have done for some in the UK about to for another. Edited April 6, 2018 by craig 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dreadnaught Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 @craig I wonder, have you ever designed for motorised blinds? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 @Dreadnaught yes, we motorise them, you can also hook them up to a home automation system supplied and connected by others. It’s something you would need to contact us about. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tin Soldier Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 I'm so confused as to how to attach the windows to the frame. The opening is literally 50mm bigger all round The insulation is 25mm, The straps on the window are 2.5mm attached is a pic of the proposed window installation detail for the blockwork part of the house also attached is a pic of a window, dry fitted with 25mm roofing batten packers last night obviously I could line the opening with 25mm insulation, but I don't like the idea of screwing a strap into the frame through insulation. I cant find any detailing anywhere that shows what to do with the straps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudda Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 (edited) I don't see what's wrong in using the small battens like what you're at. If you think about a wall it's timber with insulation cut to fit between. Around the window it's the same thing in your case with some timber pieces and you'll have to cut 25mm insulation and fit them between. If you make the timber pieces a bit wider you may also be able to use them to fix the plasterboard or window boards into. You can go getting special straps made or look at special expensive insulation that can take the weight of the window but I'd keep it simple and use small pieces of timber (but a bit wider and treated) like you already are. EDIT: Just see 'B' on plan is a 25mm timber packer to support the window so very similar to what your at. Edited April 10, 2018 by Dudda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tin Soldier Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 Cheers Dudda I think I'll get some wider treated 22mm board, cant seem to get wider 25mm treated wood I guess 22mm is fine as the strapping is 3mm, and any other slack I can shim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tin Soldier Posted April 21, 2018 Author Share Posted April 21, 2018 Whoops, dropped one and didn’t get out of the way 100kg stopped by a mere finger or two, ouch 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 ouch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oranjeboom Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 Never mind the finger - any damage to the window???? Hope the ARI looked after you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tin Soldier Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 Windows undamaged believe it or not my fingers took the brunt of it... I’m so angry with myself as it’s put me massively backwards. finest week of weather we’ve had and I’ve been unable to start the roof Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oranjeboom Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 1 hour ago, Tin Soldier said: finest week of weather we’ve had and I’ve been unable to start the roof Every cloud..... Put your feet up and make most of the weather. May not see the sun again for another month after today! Hope your finger heals quickly! Is it a splint job for 4wks and then another 3wks of healing after that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Ah, bugger. Hope it mends quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 I did similarly, hit my little finger with a hammer when too tired, end bone in 9 pieces and swollen badly. They gave me a finger splint but I found a piece of overflow pipe was more comfortable ?. They told me to come back and see a specialist but what are they going to do?, it’s still larger than the other one but it’s stopped hurting now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tin Soldier Posted April 24, 2018 Author Share Posted April 24, 2018 (edited) thanks everyone- On the mend now - desperate to get going again. I'm estimating I can start self levelling patches in two weeks. fractured the tip of my middle finger, completely smushed the tip of ring finger- I had already moved it back a bit before I got to hospital as I was worried it would fall off before I got there, it was almost at 90 degrees when I stood up . I have to say, much to my amazement I have had only sympathy from my better half. They surgeon ended up taking the top bit off, cleaning up the bone and reattaching, which fortunately saved the first third of my finger, but I will end up with a deformed nail etc if it grows back a nice reminder of self building. For three hours I though they were 'terminating my finger' which was pretty much cut a bit off and sew it up, so anything is a win after that. Sorry if that's too much detail. Anyway I have a window/ door related question All of the smaller windows are fitted. 8cm overhang for windows into blockwork (span the 50mm gap, and something for sills to sit under), 6cm overhang for timber clad bits of house. All of these windows sit on a sips panel as hey are normal height so to speak. Question around the patio door and entrance door/sidelights. They will sit on the inner blockwork. Both will be timber clad externally. Seems a bit odd to overhang these 6cm, the same as everything else. I'd have thought they would sit further in, but I don't know if that would look odd? any advice? theres no info on the rationel site. Edited April 24, 2018 by Tin Soldier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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