vfrdave Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 Can someone advise what the placement of the waste pipes for toilets should be. Mine are concreted into the subfloor rising vertically for toilets to be attached. Toilets will back onto walls so what distance from the wall should the waste pipe be. Suspect that 2 of mine are too far out based on prospective plumbers comments, he didn't offer up a solution. Not sure I fancy having to dig concrete subfloor up to adjust/join pipework. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lizzie Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 Every one of ours (3) were in the wrong place as were all the wastes for the basins and kitchen/utility we had more holes in our slab than my knitting! I would not want to go through all that again...we spent ages trying to do it - days and days - plumber came and finished it in a day- he did much better than we could do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfrdave Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 Any guidance on what the placement should be. Didn't seem to concerned about shower and sink wastes just the toilets. Need the Welsh one for this @Nickfromwales hopefully not feeling too robbed from the weekends rugby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 Are these in yet ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 (edited) How much insulation are you putting on top of the sub floor??? And screed depth?? Edited February 15, 2018 by Declan52 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 We had a couple of wastes that were too far from walls. Basically they should be almost hard up against the wall. The builder simply dug the screed out around the waste and put in a bend that was then screeded back in. Even if you have UFH it should be fine as it won't be behind or close to the pipe. What kind of toilets are you planning to have. Most toilets nowadays are back to the wall or wall mounted. This means that the cistern is inside a bulkhead and the waste disappears into it. If the waste is far into the room then the bulkhead hiding the cistern will end up really deep and take up a lot of space. If you have a close coupled toilet where you can see the cistern sitting on the back of it then they are usually designed to have the waste either inside the wall or tight against the wall behind them. You can get ones with a side waste or even a bottom waste or you can use a swan neck connector, but again the WC might end up well into the room or a large amount of waste pipe will be on display or you may need to box in a large area of the room. In the long run you are probably better digging up a little bit of the floor and moving the pipe. It is better than having a pipe on display in the room or having to box out 300m of the space in a small room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfrdave Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 25 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Are these in yet ? Unfortunately yes 22 minutes ago, Declan52 said: How much insulation are you putting on top of the sub floor??? And screed depth?? 150mm insulation 60 mm screed or thereabouts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 How far out from the wall are they??? What kind of toliet had you planned in the rooms?? How handy are you with a kango!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfrdave Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 5 minutes ago, Declan52 said: How far out from the wall are they??? What kind of toliet had you planned in the rooms?? How handy are you with a kango!!! I need to measure them to be fair. One toilet will be a close couple toilet. The other is a back to wall toilet, this one come to think of it the pipe is too far away from the wall and the corner of the room were the toilet should be. Kango isn't an issue, how do you start to join below the floor in a tight space? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 It all depends how far out you are. If it's not far away you could break the concrete out enough and use either 11.5 degree or 22.5 degree bends to move it over slightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfrdave Posted February 19, 2018 Author Share Posted February 19, 2018 @Declan52 @Nickfromwales To give some more context the pipe in the bathroom is 2 3/4 inches off the wall, first picture. The other one in question is 10 inches, second picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 (edited) 1st one is prob ok - spacesaver-pan-connector? 2nd one. Dig and move. Should have been moved before floor was poured. Edited February 19, 2018 by CC45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 is that just the subfloor laid? Is there still insulation and screed to go on top of that? If so you should be able to attach an offset bend to move the second one over to the wall in the depth of the insulation and screed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 12 minutes ago, AliG said: is that just the subfloor laid? Is there still insulation and screed to go on top of that? If so you should be able to attach an offset bend to move the second one over to the wall in the depth of the insulation and screed. Not a cats chance I'm afraid Look where the FF level is and it's 10" away. Time to get the kango out and drop at LEAST 200mm before fitting 2x 45's to rectify. First one prob be ok if you kango 50-100mm down and use a pair of 15's or 30's. Had the same prob on a job in oxford, where they wanted a corner WC in the place of a regular one, and another where I had to relocate a complete wall to create a plant room. Was unpleasant but not impossible. Its VERY IMPORTANT not to damage the outside of the pipe with the chisel bit. Doing that will prevent you getting a seal with the fittings. Go slow or you'll be in the ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 Think your going to have to get the kango bit sharpened up. Get 2 45 bends and put them together. You might need a small length of pipe in between the 2 bends maybe 5-7 inches long to get you in the correct position. When you have it made up mark on the wall your FFL and set your pipe and see how much you need to dig out. Make sure you dig enough out so the bend is pushed fully home and cut and file the pipe coming out of the floor as you don't want a rough edge that could catch a brown trout on it's way out to sea. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 21 minutes ago, Declan52 said: ...as you don't want a rough edge that could catch a brown trout on it's way out to sea. Please excuse my friend, he only went to school to rob the lead off the roof Whilst high from the lead poisoning he forgot to mention to allow for whatever is going on the wall. The soil should be only 10mm away from the plastered finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 2 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Please excuse my friend, he only went to school to rob the lead off the roof Whilst high from the lead poisoning he forgot to mention to allow for whatever is going on the wall. The soil should be only 10mm away from the plastered finish. The bean pies where well worth journey as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 5 minutes ago, Declan52 said: The bean pies where well worth journey as well. I think they should give us our own forum 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 This reinforces the need for anyone doing the ground works to get the drains and ducts coming up in the right place. My ground works guy thought I was bonkers when I said I wanted pipes coming up at very precise points, simply because he didn't realise how critical it is when a slab is going down with them coming up 10mm inside the plastered wall internally. Even after all the checks and cross checks I did on site, I had one pipe that was about 5mm too tight to a wall. Not hard to sort, but it reinforced the point that I hadn't checked the position of that pipe accurately enough before the guys came to lay the slab (not their fault at all, all the pipes and ducts were already in and poking up where I thought they should be). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 I had the same problem, without the actual toilets etc to measure, one upstairs ( in a wooden floor) I got slightly wrong and it niggles me that the pipe is not quite vertical Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 Why not build a false wall out to the soil pipe and have a concealed cistern and wall hung toilet. Moving soil pipes like that is a real pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfrdave Posted February 20, 2018 Author Share Posted February 20, 2018 @Declan52 @Nickfromwales thanks for the advice and humour directed and us poor paddys. 22 minutes ago, JSHarris said: This reinforces the need for anyone doing the ground works to get the drains and ducts coming up in the right place. My ground works guy thought I was bonkers when I said I wanted pipes coming up at very precise points, simply because he didn't realise how critical it is when a slab is going down with them coming up 10mm inside the plastered wall internally. Even after all the checks and cross checks I did on site, I had one pipe that was about 5mm too tight to a wall. Not hard to sort, but it reinforced the point that I hadn't checked the position of that pipe accurately enough before the guys came to lay the slab (not their fault at all, all the pipes and ducts were already in and poking up where I thought they should be). I fully agree Jeremy, I was in the states on business when the pipe work was done and concrete laid. I was able to call it out from photographs at the time but the then contractor did not rectify. This was the start of a slippery slope for the contractor who very shortly afterwards was relinquished of his responsibilities. Unfortunately I have been left to pick the pieces up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 3 hours ago, vfrdave said: @Declan52 @Nickfromwales thanks for the advice and humour directed and us poor paddys. I fully agree Jeremy, I was in the states on business when the pipe work was done and concrete laid. I was able to call it out from photographs at the time but the then contractor did not rectify. This was the start of a slippery slope for the contractor who very shortly afterwards was relinquished of his responsibilities. Unfortunately I have been left to pick the pieces up. Any builder who puts a soil pipe THAT far off the wall wants shooting. Simple. I think I'd sleeve the soils as they come up, with some 5" duct / similar, so if I ever had to rework them they'd not get damaged by the kango. A 5" sleeve would also give 10mm wiggle room. When happy, plug the bottom with foam and pour a strong but wet mix of 6mm concrete down to seal it up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 3 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Any builder who puts a soil pipe THAT far off the wall wants shooting. Simple. I think I'd sleeve the soils as they come up, with some 5" duct / similar, so if I ever had to rework them they'd not get damaged by the kango. A 5" sleeve would also give 10mm wiggle room. When happy, plug the bottom with foam and pour a strong but wet mix of 6mm concrete down to seal it up. The problem is you may well have two different companies involved, one for the ground works and one for the slab. A small, but critical, 5mm error as we had just isn't easily spotted. With hindsight, I think your idea of adding a 5", or even 6" sleeve is a damned good one. It would have no impact on the structural integrity of the slab, yet would allow some adjustment of the pipe position. Backfilling with foam would be more than good enough, I'm sure. I wish I'd though about it when we our ground works guys were putting the pipes and ducts in, as it would have saved me the best part of a day faffing about to try and chisel out enough of the slab around the pipe to move it just 5mm in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 On a related note: One of my soil pipes (in the downstairs WC) which comes up through my slab has a wobble and will turn. They were solvent fittings so I can only assume no cement was used I'm now paranoid the other joints including 2 runs of 50mm waste to the sink and shower positions are buried under the slab with no solvent bond Feck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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