CC45 Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 Taking shape now. Grouting will be a good day for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 5 hours ago, CC45 said: Taking shape now. Grouting will be a good day for you. Ta. Tempted to grout just the "window" and "wc" walls once tiled. Tbh probably a mistake if I do as then I'll be tempted to fit the wc, shower controls, roses, towel rad etc. I'll still have to do tiling adjacent to some of them and risk splattering those elements with adhesive. Best concentrate on the tiling I guess! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 6 hours ago, Onoff said: CT1 then colour matched silicon over that that can be redone as and when? You can get grey CT1 which will be ideal for your job anyway. Either put your grout in first or ct1 in the joint, but I wouldn't be bothering with "silicone" unless you were set on it being white. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 Tiling done and then grout - get all the pleasure in one hit! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 1 hour ago, bassanclan said: You can get grey CT1 which will be ideal for your job anyway. Either put your grout in first or ct1 in the joint, but I wouldn't be bothering with "silicone" unless you were set on it being white. If I say clear CT1 the 1mm gap first and let dry then grey CT1 a bead I can see the grey CT1 sticking like sh!t to the clear CT. When the grey gets old and tired and I rip it off it could conceivably pull out the clear CT1 from the 1mm gap. @Nickfromwales method of grout in the 1mm gap followed by easily replaceable colour matched silicon seems more sensible maybe? I can't see that when the standard silicon gets grubby it will pull the grout out? Another option maybe; clear CT1 in the 1mm gap, let dry then colour matched silicon bead. The question is again when removing the grubby bead will it pull on the CT1? Must admit I'm erring towards CT1 at least in the 1mm gap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 If you are concerned then why not put the grout in the gap as @Nickfromwales says then grey CT1 over if you like? Not sure why you would want to put an inferior product "silicone" when you can use grey CT1 which is not going to be far off the colour of your grout anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 Grey CT1 bought! The window sill then: It's two full tiles and a cut one to the right. Something's "out" though. Planning on having a 1mm gap at the front where the tile meets the trim. To get the correct gap between the tiles then at the front, from left, the packs go 2, 1, 1, 2 rather than 1, 1, 1, 1. Not sure where to lose the discrepancy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 That can only mean your bead is not straight. You probably need to cut the right hand tile and put that in. It might be going to end up 2,1,1,2...3 What space have you got between the bead and the tile on the vertical face? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 55 minutes ago, bassanclan said: That can only mean your bead is not straight. You probably need to cut the right hand tile and put that in. It might be going to end up 2,1,1,2...3 What space have you got between the bead and the tile on the vertical face? Stuck with CT1... No gap. Tbh I've been using the trims to get a "best as it gets" line to try and hide my dodgy tiling. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 On 30/10/2018 at 08:30, bassanclan said: If you are concerned then why not put the grout in the gap as @Nickfromwales says then grey CT1 over if you like? Not sure why you would want to put an inferior product "silicone" when you can use grey CT1 which is not going to be far off the colour of your grout anyway Have you bought the grey CT1? I’m guessing not , because if you had, you would NOT be recommending it for this application. CT1 in the 1mm grout line? What colour? How is the white grout supposed to make a seal against the CT1, or how would you stop the grout so there was a gap for the CT1 to go in the last 1mm? Not going to happen ?? Read back, as I mentioned using the white grout and ramming it under the tile and into the intersections where the grout lines rise. Then I mention using grey silicone. Not inferior when used to your advantage ?. White CT1 goes custard yellow and anything other than clear is the worlds biggest pig to get a token bead with that doesn’t look like it’s been applied by a Wildabeasts hoof. Just imagine the grey over spill going onto the white grout, and from there it’ll be downhill to the booze cabinet. CT1 isn’t available in shades of grey, and the grey they have will look like gutter sealant. To summarise, I’m not a fan of that idea 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 Boll@cks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 Try a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 Not a problem on the trims where you can wipe them to nothing with baby wipes, but try an internal angle and not getting it onto the white grout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 I've used the grey in this exact situation (internal angle) and had no problem. Put two lines of masking tape to keep a straight run and plenty of multisolve on your finger to help smooth it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 4 minutes ago, bassanclan said: I've used the grey in this exact situation (internal angle) and had no problem. Put two lines of masking tape to keep a straight run and plenty of multisolve on your finger to help smooth it How thick a bead are we talking about here btw? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 Just now, Onoff said: How thick a bead are we talking about here btw? Whatever thickness you want, but put your lines at 2-3mm vertical and 2-3mm horizontal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: Have you bought the grey CT1? I’m guessing not , because if you had, you would NOT be recommending it for this application. CT1 in the 1mm grout line? What colour? How is the white grout supposed to make a seal against the CT1, or how would you stop the grout so there was a gap for the CT1 to go in the last 1mm? Not going to happen ?? Read back, as I mentioned using the white grout and ramming it under the tile and into the intersections where the grout lines rise. Then I mention using grey silicone. Not inferior when used to your advantage ?. White CT1 goes custard yellow and anything other than clear is the worlds biggest pig to get a token bead with that doesn’t look like it’s been applied by a Wildabeasts hoof. Just imagine the grey over spill going onto the white grout, and from there it’ll be downhill to the booze cabinet. CT1 isn’t available in shades of grey, and the grey they have will look like gutter sealant. To summarise, I’m not a fan of that idea I was going to use this, silver grey one: https://www.screwfix.com/p/mapei-mapesil-ac-111-solvent-free-silicone-silver-grey-310ml/93192? Assuming I ram white grout in the 1mm gap first are you saying that CT1 is harder to apply than normal silicone? Also that it will maybe stain the white grout? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 7 minutes ago, Onoff said: I was going to use this, silver grey one Assuming I ram white grout in the 1mm gap first are you saying that CT1 is harder to apply than normal silicone? Also that it will maybe stain the white grout? Cheers Grey matched silicone = ✅ CT1 harder = ✅✅ Stain the white grout ? = ✅✅✅✅✅✅ Stick with me kid ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 (edited) I suppose I could carefully file the front edge of the tile so I get a neat 1mm gap... These sharpening stones that @Nickfromwales put me onto have been brilliant but I could do with a new set now: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-Piece-Diamond-Knife-Tools-Sharpening-Stone-Set-Fine-Extra-Fine-Coarse-Grade/311816827397 Need something in between them and the super coarse one I've got: Edited November 1, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 (edited) Another "with hindsight" moment! Should have tiled with a full tile central to the window! Edited November 1, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 4 hours ago, Onoff said: Another "with hindsight" moment! Should have tiled with a full tile central to the window! Er why then your row of mosaics would not line up, you can chase your arse a round that bathroom for the next week and you will never get everything to fall where you want it in the grand scheme of things you normally walk into a room and the whole thing hits you the crisp lines the mosaics the pockets, the whole thing nobody apart from you will be looking to see if you got a whole tile in the centre get it finished and stand back and give yourself a pat on the back. Procrastination will just send you around and around. Move on. Looking good, but it will look a whole lot better when it’s grouted. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 Just a few fiddly ones done: Some bottoms: Some rips along the top: And all 3 pocket shelves cut to give a nom. 1mm gap front and back: Top Tip: A strip of plastic really helps for taking them in/out when fettling to fit: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 4, 2018 Author Share Posted November 4, 2018 (edited) My copycat TileTracker didn't work so well as in the tile sat on a "knife edge" of the angle and had a tendency to slip off when setting up. The main issue was the amount of excess tile adhesive that would drop down behind the angle and need chipping off before the bottom tiles went on. For the next section I've made a slight mod and added a bit of plastic angle with some double sided tape. A small steel angle would have been better but I haven't got any. Not so sure I shouldn't have hooked the plastic over the big angle rather than sticking it on the back...I still might! Also improved the coverage of the antinox floor protection so hopefully less cleaning up required! Edited November 4, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 5, 2018 Author Share Posted November 5, 2018 Once I've done the basin area, I'll hopefully soon to be tiling around the bath, so I'll be asking lots of questions I'm sure! I've tanking taped what I see as key junctions from vertical to horizontal and between moisture resistant plaster board and marine ply. If I tank the whole lot i.e. the moisture resistant plaster board and marine ply can I use tile adhesive to affix the tiles to the ply? This rather than use "ordinary silicon" or "grab adhesive" to stick tiles to bare ply. I've even been priming the tanked areas pre tiling btw. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 22 minutes ago, Onoff said: If I tank the whole lot i.e. the moisture resistant plaster board and marine ply can I use tile adhesive to affix the tiles to the ply? This rather than use "ordinary silicon" or "grab adhesive" to stick tiles to bare ply. I've even been priming the tanked areas pre tiling btw. As long as the ply doesn’t move/flex (and knowing you I bet t doesn’t !) and the tanking is well adhered (ply really well primed) what you’ve suggested will be fine. I did exactly that on some ply bath panels in the barn some 15 years ago and they’re still there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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