October 27, 20169 yr Chip away the internal wall / skim and use a multi tool to cut the sleeve. Screw the tap on and then push the bend fully on.
October 27, 20169 yr Author 33 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Chip away the internal wall / skim and use a multi tool to cut the sleeve. Screw the tap on and then push the bend fully on. Ta. Didn't even consider the multi tool and I've got two I use for just about everything! Was envisioning trying to faff around with a hacksaw blade and not damage the pipe. Copper is wrapped in pvc tape btw. Now a numpty question. I've pre drilled the holes for the union so they're symmetrical. (I can easily fill them in with resin). I was seduced by the fact you can rotate the pipe in the push fit. Is the norm to wrap the tap thread in PTFE tape and screw into the union until tight then a bit to put vertical or use "gasgrease" (other brands are aavailable ) and tighten to the shoulder and then rotate / drilI? I HATE working around the wc. Poxy kids with bad aim!
October 27, 20169 yr Put about 25-28 turns of ptfe and turn it into the socket until snug and vertical. End of job. Don't overshoot and back turn it or you'll fack it up.
October 27, 20169 yr Yes, I tend to tighten fully with Ptfe tape on the thread THEN drill the holes in the wall to fix.
October 27, 20169 yr 1 hour ago, joe90 said: Yes, I tend to tighten fully with Ptfe tape on the thread THEN drill the holes in the wall to fix. +1 to that
October 27, 20169 yr Author 7 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Put about 25-28 turns of ptfe and turn it into the socket until snug and vertical. End of job. Don't overshoot and back turn it or you'll fack it up. Ta. So do you wind the tap in until it hits the shoulder i.e. won't turn clockwise any more or just until it "feels right"? I'm guessing tighten until it feels right AND you still have access to drill the holes. With a combination of multi tool and junior hacksaw blade I've probably gained 4mm of pipe to push in to the copper push fit elbow. Pretty it ain't! Don't think I've damaged the pipe..... A bead of silicon then a square of woodchip paper should tidy it up. Edited October 27, 20169 yr by Onoff
October 27, 20169 yr Yup. Just until you can see it's not got another full revolution left to go. "Plumbers eye" aka "Use the force".
October 28, 20169 yr Author 25-28 turns of PTFE? Preposterous I thought, I've never put that much on all the fitting I've done put together! Erm.....Nick knows best! Did what he said and it just worked. Must remember that in future..... (Brown Sikaflex happened to be handy). Effing smart ar$ed plumb....
October 28, 20169 yr I have not posted in this thread for a while. but I will say, in the case of a joint that weeps, I still fall back on my tin of "Water Hawk Potable Water Jointing Compound" My Dad has been dead 18 years and it dates back to when he was still working so I'll bet it's pushing 30 years old now. Still half a tin left, that should see me out. But look, it's still available https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/Fernox-Hawk-White-Potable-Water-Jointing-Compound-400g/p/813034 So I would recommend anyone doing any plumbing to buy a tin. I note it says "shelf life 5 years" Oh er.
October 28, 20169 yr I've got my dads T-2 Rectorseal that is a minimum 15 years old as he's been dead 13...! Best ptfe paste I've used ..!! Only threw out his flux this summer as it had gone green ....
October 29, 20169 yr Author 14 hours ago, PeterW said: I've got my dads T-2 Rectorseal that is a minimum 15 years old as he's been dead 13...! Best ptfe paste I've used ..!! Only threw out his flux this summer as it had gone green .... That Rectorseal site makes for interesting reading. All all sorts of soft set, fast dry, extra strong pipe joint compounds.
October 29, 20169 yr Only downside is getting it in the UK can be a challenge - £25 vs $8 in Home Depot ..! I will get some shipped back next time my mate comes over ..! You can get small tubes on eBay for about £5 and they last for ages if you don't do a lot of plumbing.
October 29, 20169 yr Author Well..... I must have been bad in a previous life! Plan this morning was to form some sort of an access chamber around the stop cock inside the fence, this being the OLD meter position. Lucky I looked as WE HAVE ANOTHER LEAK! This is I'm guessing on the old remaining section of iron between this stop cock and the meter. Will be calling the water board shortly. Going way back they came out and changed the elbow to the iron in the picture: It was the actual black plastic elbow that was at fault back then, on the side, not even on one of the joints. This is way back: Can't see this time that it's anything else other than the old bit of iron.
October 30, 20169 yr Author And the weekend just went! (To think I was going to finish the bathroom too..... ) That original 10' bit of iron between the stop cock inside the fence and the roadside meter was a tad rusty... I dug out the bank by hand and laid a new bit of 25mm MDPE in, in 63mm duct. Deeper and steeper than it looks that trench! I even squared off the rough sawn end of the tube where the meter sits And found a paving slab to sit the stop cock inside the fence (YES, I know the bottom of the fence is knackered! Madam didn't want gravel boards in case in impeded the wildlife!) Edited October 30, 20169 yr by Onoff
October 31, 20169 yr 11 hours ago, Onoff said: (YES, I know the bottom of the fence is knackered! Madam didn't want gravel boards in case in impeded the wildlife!) Just another job to add to the list!
October 31, 20169 yr Author What's the deal with the (light blue) fittings that attach either side of the stop cock? Are they done up hand tight, should you assemble with a bit of "paste"? The above photo is the original set up. I've just put my new, blue 25mm MDPE in reusing the fittings. Might have a weep on one! I did though tweak them up with the 5 holes.....
October 31, 20169 yr Author 59 minutes ago, PeterStarck said: Just another job to add to the list! I'll probably lift the panels and take the (rotten) bit off the bottom then fit 300mm gravel boards anyway.
October 31, 20169 yr Shouldn't really need anything if the rings are intact ... if you can dry it out a quick smear of clear silicone sealant (WRAS approved of course) sho
October 31, 20169 yr Author 51 minutes ago, PeterW said: Shouldn't really need anything if the rings are intact ... if you can dry it out a quick smear of clear silicone sealant (WRAS approved of course) sho Ta. Might be nothing, I'll check again when home. I did wonder if a smear of "gasgrease" would work?
October 31, 20169 yr Gas Grease ..?? Would need to be something that's ok with potable water and I know Silicone doesn't react with MDPE
October 31, 20169 yr Author 12 minutes ago, PeterW said: Gas Grease ..?? Would need to be something that's ok with potable water and I know Silicone doesn't react with MDPE I only said gas grease as a nod to Nick! This is the stuff I have, Jet Blue Plus; according to the bumpf for potable water and good for polyethylene which is I believe what MDPE is? http://www.plumbcenter.co.uk/product/center-center-jet-blue-plus-500-g/
November 1, 20169 yr Could be worse @Onoff, I haven't even managed to get a seal on a service valve and WC flexi connection in about 3 months. Edited November 1, 20169 yr by daiking
November 1, 20169 yr Author 8 minutes ago, daiking said: Could be worse @Onoff, I haven't even managed to get a seal on a service valve and WC flexi connection in about 3 months. False alarm I think ref my leak. Just I think water from when I cracked the joint to check I had the top hat washer round the right way! Want me to send you some Jet Blue Plus?
November 1, 20169 yr 12 minutes ago, Onoff said: False alarm I think ref my leak. Just I think water from when I cracked the joint to check I had the top hat washer round the right way! Want me to send you some Jet Blue Plus? Have you got anything non potable like boss white instead? I could do with poisoning the wife with it rather than trying to fix the joints.
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