Square Feet Posted Saturday at 14:23 Author Posted Saturday at 14:23 I think I'm probably at the stage now where drawing it up a bit more precisely would help as the few mm of discrepancy will add up when repeated enough. Many thanks for all your help with this so far. 1
garrymartin Posted Saturday at 14:25 Posted Saturday at 14:25 8 minutes ago, Square Feet said: The view to the south: I bet I'm not the only one that thought of Windows XP 😉🤣 3
ETC Posted Saturday at 19:46 Posted Saturday at 19:46 On 02/10/2026 at 12:37, Square Feet said: I'd love your input @ETC if you are still around..... Sure….happy to take a look…..will get back to you next week…. 1
ETC Posted Saturday at 19:56 Posted Saturday at 19:56 A few sketch designs I completed a few years ago. 1
Mike Posted Saturday at 20:03 Posted Saturday at 20:03 (edited) 7 hours ago, Square Feet said: Thanks for going to the trouble to redraw this Mike. I'ts perhaps a bit confusing but north is at the bottom in my drawings so that would mean the kitchen was in the best south facing bit of the house and the dining room in the cold dark north. Having the dining table near the fabulous view is really important I think. A good view is a big asset, but so is space - so how many hours per day will you be sitting down to eat in the dining room (during daylight), vs how many hours will be spent in the kitchen? And if you turn the worktop extension I proposed into a breakfast bar, you would see the view through the kitchen window too. Tip: make the bottom of the kitchen window flush with the worktop, and site the cooker & sink to one side, so that there's minimal interruption to the view. Also bearing in mind that anyone in the dining room on the wrong side of the table doesn't get to see the view, and in summer you might be eating outside, rather than inside Of course if 'dining room' actually means 'office', then keeping the view on the dining room side is easily justified! Edited Saturday at 20:07 by Mike 1
Square Feet Posted yesterday at 12:46 Author Posted yesterday at 12:46 16 hours ago, Mike said: A good view is a big asset, but so is space - so how many hours per day will you be sitting down to eat in the dining room (during daylight), vs how many hours will be spent in the kitchen? And if you turn the worktop extension I proposed into a breakfast bar, you would see the view through the kitchen window too. Tip: make the bottom of the kitchen window flush with the worktop, and site the cooker & sink to one side, so that there's minimal interruption to the view. Also bearing in mind that anyone in the dining room on the wrong side of the table doesn't get to see the view, and in summer you might be eating outside, rather than inside Of course if 'dining room' actually means 'office', then keeping the view on the dining room side is easily justified! It's a good idea that I can see the merits of, but I love my dining table and sitting around it with friends. I enjoy cooking but I don't go to town on it - the kitchen isn't a big part of my life. I'm going to dig my heels in and say that I really want the dining and kitchen round the way they are, but I really appreciate the opportunity to fully think that through. 1
Square Feet Posted yesterday at 13:02 Author Posted yesterday at 13:02 I should maybe say that I work as a delivery driver so I don't need WFH or client visit space. I do use my computer quite a lot though, I think it's just a tool that we all need in modern life and I do love being able to do things on my desktop so that I can properly see what I'm doing. I probably spend too much time on it atm, so I don't want it in my main living space where it might tempt me to use it more.
-rick- Posted yesterday at 14:23 Posted yesterday at 14:23 One question: What restrictions are you working under with the overall size of the design. Obviously cost, but in terms of planning/site? I'm thinking whether it would be possible to add length or width (or trade one against the other) if it made the overall layout easier? I could see a wider but shorter layout possibly solving some of the trade offs we have talked about for example. 1
Square Feet Posted yesterday at 15:24 Author Posted yesterday at 15:24 57 minutes ago, -rick- said: One question: What restrictions are you working under with the overall size of the design. Obviously cost, but in terms of planning/site? I'm thinking whether it would be possible to add length or width (or trade one against the other) if it made the overall layout easier? I could see a wider but shorter layout possibly solving some of the trade offs we have talked about for example. It's purely financial - money's too tight to mention. I won't have much money on a day-to-day basis at the end of this either, so keeping it small and manageable will help. There's always compromises to be made.
Square Feet Posted yesterday at 15:57 Author Posted yesterday at 15:57 I'm still working on this, but here's the latest iteration.
-rick- Posted yesterday at 16:04 Posted yesterday at 16:04 21 minutes ago, Square Feet said: It's purely financial - money's too tight to mention. I won't have much money on a day-to-day basis at the end of this either, so keeping it small and manageable will help. There's always compromises to be made. You might consider whether the lean to part adds more cost than it's worth vs a slight larger main building. Yes you plan lower insulation etc, not part of the main space but I'm not sure that is a saving (more likely a cost due to extra complexity/junctions). Could still have covered porch area but remove the need for proper foundations. Are the eco insulation products part of a concept to get planning? If not, they are generally a more expensive way to build for relatively limited environmental benefit. Choosing the low impact but more standard options might save money without a big environmental impact (especially if that then allows you to use the money elsewhere for other low impact things). Keeping to dimensions that allow standard off-the-shelf construction materials likely is a benefit, though I'd guess Gus has already talked about that. But that leans towards longer but narrower vs wider but shorter in trade offs. 1
JohnMo Posted 23 hours ago Posted 23 hours ago Initial thoughts, it looks good. Internal wall are most likely going to be 100mm thick, may have been answered already. Can you make the lean too more flat roof to help with head heights? Or start it further up the roof? Or get rid of it altogether? Use the the space used by the angled wall in the living space, and over sail the roof more for a covered area? But not liking that angled wall, it kills your living space and gives nothing much outside either.
-rick- Posted 22 hours ago Posted 22 hours ago 5 minutes ago, JohnMo said: But not liking that angled wall, it kills your living space and gives nothing much outside either. Tend to agree. Didn't really stand out to me first go round but noticed on the most recent version. Keeping the wall straight but with the roof/walls overlapping the outside (as shown in many of @ETC's previous designs would seem nicer and less complex/expensive to build. Might get your covered area automatically if doing a space frame construction. It's just another unit or two in length. @Square Feet by space frame do you mean the i-joist/beam type that one or two others here have done? Could see that being a good way to go if doing a lot yourself and likely doesn't need that kitchen wall/divider to extend so far as no roof supports needed.
torre Posted 19 hours ago Posted 19 hours ago Sounds like money is tight but long term I think you'll regret that kitchen wall dividing the space, and beds 1 & 2 would definitely benefit from being wider. I agree with @-rick- that the lean to is likely to add more complexity and cost than you gain in utility versus slightly bigger overall dimensions in a simpler shape. Looks like your views will be great though regardless! 1
Square Feet Posted 3 hours ago Author Posted 3 hours ago I guess the eco credentials of the building are something that is important to me. I don't want to fill my house with off-gassing chemicals if at all possible and I'd like to keep the environmental impact of the building to a minimum. The cranked gable end has always been there - I'm surprised you all missed it 😂 It comes from this house in Herefordshire that featured on GD in in 2019 or so. I really love it and the idea of connection to the outside whatever the weather. It's angled the way it is so that the outside glass would block the prevailing wind and mean you could sit out there or even just have the patio/bifold door open in windy or rainy weather and be protected. Being outdoors is a big part of my life so I really do think it would get a lot of use. The lean-to was a way of stopping the building getting too long and thin whilst providing a buffer zone for a muddy me and keeping noisy machines out of the way. I'm open to suggestions though, especially if they save me money.
-rick- Posted 2 hours ago Posted 2 hours ago 5 minutes ago, Square Feet said: I guess the eco credentials of the building are something that is important to me. I don't want to fill my house with off-gassing chemicals if at all possible and I'd like to keep the environmental impact of the building to a minimum. Sure, not dissimilar to me. I'm just saying you don't have to go all the way to hemp/sheeps wool type insulation. You can get mineral/glass wools with pretty good eco properties without the premium you pay for the eco marketed stuff. Look at Knauf. If you've already found a low priced source of eco stuff then go for it but it sounds like your budget is going to be really tight so every saving should be looked at. 5 minutes ago, Square Feet said: The cranked gable end has always been there - I'm surprised you all missed it 😂 Missed no, just didn't stand out before. Which means its lower on the list of things I wanted to talk about. 5 minutes ago, Square Feet said: It comes from this house in Herefordshire tha featured on GD in in 2019 or so. I really love it and the idea of connection to the outside whatever the weather. It's angled the way it is so that the outside glass would block the prevailing wind and mean you could sit out there or even just have the patio/bifold door open in windy or rainy weather and be protected. Being outdoors is a big part of my life so I really do think it would get a lot of use. Any time you introduce angles you add complexity. I like the overhang and think it could be quite easy to construct if doing space frame (though I think it's much easier with traditional foundations vs insulated raft). Just think the angle itself isn't adding much. With a straight wall you can still have the overhang as protection, you'd actually have more outdoor space but you have a simpler foundation and junctions. Offset is you likely use some more roof/wall materials. If this build is literally DIY max and you intend to do all these bits yourself then the extra labour in making the angle happen might not matter. But there is also the point that every detail that you need to deal with once is a learning experience and you will make mistakes. Keeping things simple means trying to minimise the number of one-offs. The more repetition you have the easier it is to get good at something. So you can start where the mistakes will get hidden and work your way towards the areas where mistakes will be visible so by the time you get to them you have figured out how to do things nicely. 5 minutes ago, Square Feet said: The lean-to was a way of stopping the building getting too long and thin whilst providing a buffer zone for a muddy me and keeping noisy machines out of the way. I'm open to suggestions though, especially if they save me money. I think my inclination would be to try and build the building 1m or so wider. No annex, take 1.5-2m from the expanded living room area to build that lobby area in the to main space (overall 0.5 to 1m loss of space in that area, offset by more room for kitchen/dining). If straightening up the external wall on that face you likely gain space overall. Total footprint of the building would be broadly similar but would be easier to construct and specify (no need to negotiate SAP for the lobby space or deal with wierd airtightness details on the inside/outside bit). I would scrap the plant room and put it in a loft above the bathroom/study. 1
-rick- Posted 2 hours ago Posted 2 hours ago 20 hours ago, -rick- said: @Square Feet by space frame do you mean the i-joist/beam type that one or two others here have done? Could see that being a good way to go if doing a lot yourself and likely doesn't need that kitchen wall/divider to extend so far as no roof supports needed. I had a bit of looking around and I think @Gone West went with this type of construction and I'm sure there is more detail in past posts but I can't find them off hand. 1
Square Feet Posted 2 hours ago Author Posted 2 hours ago 26 minutes ago, -rick- said: I had a bit of looking around and I think @Gone West went with this type of construction and I'm sure there is more detail in past posts but I can't find them off hand. I'm not totally sure what I mean by space frame to be completely honest. It's what @Gus Potter has been calling it and I haven't had time to deep dive into the implications of that yet.
Square Feet Posted 1 hour ago Author Posted 1 hour ago (edited) 1 hour ago, -rick- said: 1 - Sure, not dissimilar to me. I'm just saying you don't have to go all the way to hemp/sheeps wool type insulation. You can get mineral/glass wools with pretty good eco properties without the premium you pay for the eco marketed stuff. Look at Knauf. If you've already found a low priced source of eco stuff then go for it but it sounds like your budget is going to be really tight so every saving should be looked at. 2 - Missed no, just didn't stand out before. Which means its lower on the list of things I wanted to talk about. Any time you introduce angles you add complexity. I like the overhang and think it could be quite easy to construct if doing space frame (though I think it's much easier with traditional foundations vs insulated raft). Just think the angle itself isn't adding much. With a straight wall you can still have the overhang as protection, you'd actually have more outdoor space but you have a simpler foundation and junctions. Offset is you likely use some more roof/wall materials. If this build is literally DIY max and you intend to do all these bits yourself then the extra labour in making the angle happen might not matter. But there is also the point that every detail that you need to deal with once is a learning experience and you will make mistakes. Keeping things simple means trying to minimise the number of one-offs. The more repetition you have the easier it is to get good at something. So you can start where the mistakes will get hidden and work your way towards the areas where mistakes will be visible so by the time you get to them you have figured out how to do things nicely. 3 - I think my inclination would be to try and build the building 1m or so wider. No annex, take 1.5-2m from the expanded living room area to build that lobby area in the to main space (overall 0.5 to 1m loss of space in that area, offset by more room for kitchen/dining). If straightening up the external wall on that face you likely gain space overall. Total footprint of the building would be broadly similar but would be easier to construct and specify (no need to negotiate SAP for the lobby space or deal with wierd airtightness details on the inside/outside bit). 4 - I would scrap the plant room and put it in a loft above the bathroom/study. 1 - I think the fact that the factory is literally on the doorstep makes me want to properly consider the hemp option. I've been in touch with them and although they have made no promises yet, I am hoping that a deal can be done for direct supply. It doesn't seem that expensive when bought retail though. They've given me some samples and it's a lot stiffer than mineral/rockwool which I like. It doesn't seem like it's going to be prone to slumping, which is what I've found in a lot of the houses I've renovated that have mineral wool insulation. I'm still at an early stage with all this and I am not going to knuckleheadedly insist on anything at this stage. I'm just exploring possibilities, but my preference is definitely for the hemp if possible. 2 - I did have a straight wall with overhang in an earlier version of the plans but I cranked it later as I was worried about the north end of it catching the prevailing wind and introducing a lot of wind-load stress onto the structure. Also the SW corner of the living space wasn't doing much, so it felt ok to sacrifice a bit. I completely get what you are saying re angles being tricky and the need to avoid introducing unnecessary complexity, but I do really, really like the slanted overhang. I also like the way the roofline stays as a rectangle and it's just that end gable wall that angles. 3 - I guess the building doesn't seem like it needs to be wider though - I don't think the living/dining need more space. My living room in my current flat is 8x4m and it's just ridiculous. The kitchen/diner next door is the same size and feels perfect, but that much space for the living room is actually a bit impractical. I actually did first put the plant room etc in the exact area you mentioned ie where the armchairs are in my current drawing but moved it away later on as I couldn't find a decent place to put the telly without it blocking the view! In Old Holloway the living room is where I have my kitchen and that's an option for it, but it felt a bit too small there, mostly because of the central door to the bedrooms. It's a good point re airtightness detailing for the lean-to though. Another point is that a steeper roof is better for winter solar generation - the time when you really need it most. The payoff of less generation in summer should be ok as it's not as critical then. If I go wider I would need to go higher with the ceilings/roofline to keep the same roof pitch and both are fairly optimised at 40 degrees (though I have taken on board what @ProDave said about 45 degrees being more practical to build and intend to raise that with Gus later). 4 - I can see what you mean. It would make use of space I don't really need up there, but I do worry that it would mean getting the ladder out every time I want to change a filter or re-boot something. Everything is a compromise though, and maybe that's the lesser one in this case. It doesn't seem very 'old age' friendly though (I'm 55). Edited 1 hour ago by Square Feet
Square Feet Posted 1 hour ago Author Posted 1 hour ago I should say that ETC has agreed to have a look at my plans and give me their thoughts. So I'm going to wait and see what they say before I change anything else. I still really value all the feedback I've received in here so far though. 1
Gone West Posted 13 minutes ago Posted 13 minutes ago 2 hours ago, -rick- said: I had a bit of looking around and I think @Gone West went with this type of construction and I'm sure there is more detail in past posts but I can't find them off hand. I've never heard of my type of house construction being called space frame. I always called it a timber I-beam portal frame. IIRC the idea was later used by a company called PH15. A space frame to me is the type of frame used in old, light weight, racing car construction, but I could easily be wrong.
-rick- Posted 4 minutes ago Posted 4 minutes ago 6 minutes ago, Gone West said: I've never heard of my type of house construction being called space frame. I always called it a timber I-beam portal frame. IIRC the idea was later used by a company called PH15. A space frame to me is the type of frame used in old, light weight, racing car construction, but I could easily be wrong. I'm more familiar with it being a version of a portal frame too. But it both came to mind and your images came up in response to searching 'space frame buildhub'. I could easily be wrong about what @Gus Potter is thinking of here. In any case, I can see your type of build being a good way to build something like this (with the exception of the big windows on the long wall being a difficulty)
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