22mm T&G first floor install advice required

[ruggers]

I'm about to install the first floor on my self build using Krono span P5 fast shield t&g 22mm boards and D4 glue.

 

These are a similar product to caberdeck and egger protect for those unfamiliar with the brand.

 

My question is, can they be installed with D4 glue only after the first row is mechanically fixed using screws or ring shank nails, or, does every board need fixed and glued?

 

My builder who's installing them on this occasion, has said just glue after the first row because nail holes or screws will let water in. Is this ok, or cutting corners?

 

I thought tape or filling the holes covered this issue.

 

In the past i've always screwed as well but i do like to do things properly or belt and braces at times. I called krono for advice but the person i got didnt seem overly confident in their advice saying glue only should be enough.

 

 

[ToughButterCup]

1 hour ago, ruggers said:

..., or, does every board need fixed and glued?

 

My builder who's installing them on this occasion, has said just glue after the first row because nail holes or screws will let water in. Is this ok, or cutting corners?

...

Yes.

and

Bollocks

[Bonner]

Needs to be screwed to pull the boards down flat onto the joist.

[crispy_wafer]

I’d say that he’s right to concerned that screw/nail holes can be affected by rain/moisture, no different to the board joints really, so put a small dob of d4 over the nail/screw will help.  A floor scraper when watertight to lift the foam.

Edited 17 hours ago by crispy_wafer

[LaChab]

The Egger instructions seem to say either is ok......

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjI0OOZp7iPAxXjbEEAHX5LOO4QFnoECBwQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.egger.com%2Fget_download%2Fc19090af-796c-4d84-86bf-33909a20f6bf%2FFlyer_Advanced_Structural_Flooring_System_Fitting_guide_UK_05_2024.pdf%3Fcountry%3DGB&usg=AOvVaw1t1ze_7xhNmM1ygxieNHff&opi=89978449

[ruggers]

1 hour ago, Bonner said:

Needs to be screwed to pull the boards down flat onto the joist.

This is what i thought. I dont like a glue only idea. Tempted to fit them all myself. 

 

Do they need pulled tight with ring shanks or screws as the glue is setting or could i let him install them then follow on after he's gone same day or another day?

[Bonner]

3 minutes ago, ruggers said:

Do they need pulled tight with ring shanks or screws as the glue is setting or could i let him install them then follow on after he's gone same day or another day?

Must be fixed down before the glue sets 

[ruggers]

49 minutes ago, crispy_wafer said:

 no different to the board joints really, so put a small dob of d4 over the nail/screw will help.  A floor scraper when watertight to lift the foam.

Yes to this, also the perimeter edges are all exposed so would need sealed too with d4 glue or an alternative?

 

Ive never used d3 or d4 glue, only pva and screws 15 years ago which was weather tight. No issues.

21 minutes ago, Bonner said:

Must be fixed down before the glue sets 

Does a nail gun give the same pull down or would screwed be better, pilot drill and impact driver i could be following on behind as he lays them.

 

Can't believe the krono tech advice and the linked above egger guidance says that glue only can be an option. Wind uplight could loosen them.

[Nickfromwales]

Glued and screwed every damn time!

 

100% defo need to be screwed down before the glue cures or the board won't ever pull back down, the glue will win that fight.

 

I use 5.0 x 50mm screws which are partially threaded, to prevent 'jacking' that a fully threaded screw promotes. No need for a pilot, as the impact will send these through and out the other side with complete ease, plus you want the meat left intact to maximise on the purchase of the screw.

 

If you're at all worried about weathering, then just fill each screw hole with a scraper and some cheap clear silicone, seriously unnecessary imho though unless this is going to be open to the elements all winter?

[Gone West]

Our 22mm Caberdek flooring was glued and ring shanked nailed and only the T&G joins were taped. It was open to the elements for a couple of weeks and had puddles on it at times but when the covering was peeled off it was fine.