Self-levelling on wooden floors

[tokyotecubate]

We are having a renovation and our builders have put in new boards for all the floors - by the time we come to fit the skirting boards (we are fitting thermalskirt), we just realized that the floors are not levelled.

 

On consulting the builder, he said that the job for floor levelling is not part of the job for setting the new floors (?!?!), and that we have to find some other way to level the floors. (i.e we got a massively unhelpful builder)

 

I think some self-levelling compound in that area could work - I know it works for concrete floors, but not sure if this could work on wooden floorboards too? 

 

If we were to find someone to do it, how much should we expect them to charge (the area is around 12m2), and how long would it take to fix this?

 

Thank you!

[Russell griffiths]

Can you not take those boards up and level them as you re lay them. 

[saveasteading]

1 hour ago, tokyotecubate said:

not sure if this could work on wooden floorboards

Yes it works. make sure it sticks by applying PVA first.

I even used it on an ancient tongue and groove floor once and it was fine.   It was a 2 part, vinyl based product which has some flexibility.

 

Just in that corner and zero to about 10mm? easy enough.

 

 

 

[saveasteading]

1 hour ago, tokyotecubate said:

the area is around 12m2

Most domestic floors are far from level, but you wouldn't notice unless trying to play marbles on a hard floor finish*. 

Your skirtings are like a straight edge so are emphasising the gap. Unless you know otherwise about the rest of the room.

It is an easy job, and the better products are self levelling. a general builder can do it.

so you are looking at a half hour for just that corner, or 2 hours for the whole room.

 

* that is a good test, or a golf or other hard ball. 

 

Im interested in the skirting.  It looks quite expensive at £40/m plus the plumbing but I don't know if the whole room needs it.  Any info please?

 

[tokyotecubate]

Yes absolutely - I came across the product at Grand Design Live, and since we are doing a whole house renovation with heat pump installation, I jumped on the opportunity to use this instead of the traditional radiators - much better for room planning without the wallspace needed for the radiators. 

 

They are now fitted together alongside our heat pump - some companies do offer that as an option ( with add on) rather than the traditional radiators, though not all of them offer that ( I, for one, know that british gas and octopus does not offer that)

 

I have still yet to try it out, will definitely come back for a more detailed review once we have moved in and test-ran it ( which we hope can be done in time before winter is over  )

[Andeh]

Do they provide a bigger surface area then a radiator in a typical room?

Edited January 24, 2025 by Andehh

[JohnMo]

1 hour ago, Andehh said:

Do they provide a bigger surface area then a radiator in a typical room?

Just looked at our lounge out of interest it's about 36m², so we have 36m² UFH. Looking at skirting we have have about 16m linear length of skirting (doors and lots of glazing get in the way). So to match area skirting would need to be very tall.

 

I did try going the skirting route early on in the design, and could not make the numbers work, even for gas without big flow temps, which I was trying to avoid.

 

Plus UFH is so cheap in comparison.

Edited January 24, 2025 by JohnMo

[saveasteading]

22 minutes ago, JohnMo said:

Plus UFH is so cheap in comparison

My thoughts are only for upstairs. I know people say you don't need it, but that would be a risk and psychologically, not controllable.

So UFH in screed on GF certainlyfor cost and function.

 

First floor ufh would require a secondary floor so the cost is higher and carpets unsuitable.

Rads are ugly and use wall space.

Hence skirtings may be viable on all counts.

It shouldn't need to be the same area as ufh either because of heat transfer through aluminium compared to concrete.

[markharro]

On the topic of levelling on timber, we have 22mm chipboard on the first floor and there is an issue where our landing butts onto our metal staircase top. Basically the board on one side is depressed by maybe around 6-7mm. Ultimately we are laying lino and the plan is to first fit plywood over the chipboard then an underlay and then the lino. 

 

The issue is how to level up at this junction. Its maybe no more than 1 square metre where the issue is. 

 

I understand the use of levelling compounds I think but can anyone guide me on these points -

 

1 Should I apply the levelling compound onto the chipboard before I put the ply down or should I screw down the ply first and level that and then add the underlay and then lino? I am thinking the former may be better?

 

2 This will be a high footfall area so I am a bit concerned the levelling mix may break down over time? Should I be?

 

3 Can anyone recommend a specific product to use?

 

thanks

[markharro]

Any input on my post above?

[crispy_wafer]

Can that section of floor be cut lifted and shimmed level?  Would be my first thought.  If not then slc over ply appears to be the method I read about most often.  Only a DIY’er so take my thoughts with a pinch of salt

[saveasteading]

On 20/05/2026 at 10:57, markharro said:

recommend a specific product to use?

 

I had exactly this issue on a previous and very old house. I skimmed it level locally using latex screed. It lasted for years and may yet be there.

 

BUT I haven't seen this product again. It came as 2 parts if I recall. There was certainly  a bag of dust and there may have been some liquid additive.

The finished product was very flexible, almost like a soft shoe sole, (ie latex) and that will be why it stayed in place.

I'm hoping someone else might know what it was.

'Latex' screeds now all seem to set hard and brittle.

 

It was almost like a layer of bostik.

Thought. What about wood glue? The kind you buy in a tin.... evostik?

 

[Tosh]

On 20/05/2026 at 09:57, markharro said:

Can anyone recommend a specific product to use?

Have a look at BAL Stopgap fill and prime. Datasheet says you can apply to chipboard. Then top with Stopgap 1200 SLC. Expensive way to deal with 1sqm though. What about just screw n glue some 6mm mdf sanded/feathered out? Underlayment will compensate for minor imperfections but most flooring companies will likely recommended ply over the chipboard before underlayment.

[saveasteading]

You could Poss use skinny ply to the whole landing. Filler under the worst of it. Then smooth off at the perimeter.