Shower niche advice

[Square Feet]

Hi, I am looking to fit a wall niche into a shower for shampoo etc.  I like the idea of the ready made niche lining kits that you tile over. Anyone used one before and can recommend what to go for?  I have never fitted one before so I am a bit clueless. 

 

The recess part isn't a problem as I know there is a hole in the wall that has been previously tiled over at that location - I just need to chop it out and line it with something before tiling.

[nod]

If it’s a stud wall you only need to add a couple of noggins 

[Susie]

Is that a normal depth stud wall or have you doubled up so it’s still stud behind shelf back. Often wondered how tough it is at this point I wouldn’t want anyone punching a hole through. 

[nod]

9 minutes ago, Susie said:

Is that a normal depth stud wall or have you doubled up so it’s still stud behind shelf back. Often wondered how tough it is at this point I wouldn’t want anyone punching a hole through. 

Yes 70 mil 

Plenty deep enough for a shampoo bottle 

[Square Feet]

Mine is going into a solid wall.  The bathroom was converted from an old cupboard many years ago.  The cupboard had an internal window to bring in light from the hallway, so I am going to use this blocked off window to create part of the niche to save having to chop into the wall. I will just have to put noggins into two edges of the cavity.  So has anyone used a moulded tray to line the niche and if so which one and how was it?

Cheers

[Mike]

3 hours ago, Square Feet said:

has anyone used a moulded tray to line the niche and if so which one and how was it?

 

This one - this is as far as it's got, but no problems so far.

 

[bassanclan]

I didn't bother with a premoulded tray. Just moisture resistant plasterboard, tanking kit and then tiles and grout. Although I did use epoxy grout as I can't be doing with dirty grout

[bassanclan]

Also i thickened the stud wall, partly for sound deadening and partly to get an exact fit for the 1700 shower tray

[Adsibob]

Just watch out for creating mould traps. Niches are notorious for this, unless It’sa noche in an internal wall (or a very well insulated external wall) and you have MVHR in which case you should be ok.

[Square Feet]

13 hours ago, Mike said:

 

This one - this is as far as it's got, but no problems so far.

 

Thanks. Is that a flanged one or flush? I can't tell and I am not sure which to get. I think I want flush as its a solid wall.

 

13 hours ago, bassanclan said:

I didn't bother with a premoulded tray. Just moisture resistant plasterboard, tanking kit and then tiles and grout. Although I did use epoxy grout as I can't be doing with dirty grout

Yeah, I could do that, but it's a property that will be let out so I need to make sure it is fit-and-forget as it may not be treated as well as I would look after my own stuff. 

 

13 hours ago, Adsibob said:

Just watch out for creating mould traps. Niches are notorious for this, unless It’sa noche in an internal wall (or a very well insulated external wall) and you have MVHR in which case you should be ok.

It's an internal wall but it has been a slight concern.  There will be a permanent ventilation fan running though so hopefully that will keep the moisture down. 

[Mike]

6 hours ago, Square Feet said:

Is that a flanged one or flush? I can't tell and I am not sure which to get. I think I want flush as its a solid wall.

It has a 13mm flange that's been recessed to sit flush with the surface of the plasterboard. The tanking system will then run over the flange to make it watertight. In a solid wall you could chip back the plaster to recess it similarly, or you could form the tanking into the recess as long as it's properly lapped all round.

 

In the past I've just created a recess, then rendered / boarded and tiled it. This time it will be sitting below a rain shower getting very wet, so needs to be full water proof and I chose pre-formed for ease.

 

BTW, slope the tiles a little to avoid water pooling at the back.

[MAB]

I lined my shower wall niche with water-resistant HardieBacker tile-backer board which is impervious to water damage and won't rot, swell, or warp even if the tile grout did ever leak. Sealed all the internal corners before tiling with CT1 sealant or similar. As already said slope the tiles a little to avoid water pooling at the back but not so much your shampoo bottles slide off....

[markharro]

2 hours ago, Mike said:

It has a 13mm flange that's been recessed to sit flush with the surface of the plasterboard. The tanking system will then run over the flange to make it watertight. In a solid wall you could chip back the plaster to recess it similarly, or you could form the tanking into the recess as long as it's properly lapped all round.

I am trying to work out how to attempt my own shower-room project so have been interested to read these comments. Atm I am thinking of using Hardie backer board as the tile backer board with their tape and screws as it seems an easy to comprehend solution. Our merchant has suggested STS construction board as an alternative which seems similar except it appears to rely on their adhesive between sheets (https://nomoreply.co.uk/installation-essentials/mega-strength-construction-adhesive/ ) and no tape which doesn't seem so confidence inducing!? On top we are thinking of using large format marble tiles. 

 

The floor is a (MBC) insulated slab and it was poured with a 900 x 900 shuttered recess with the idea that we will flush mount the tray with the slab - the powerfloated slab being our final floor finish. I will be calling on our plumber to help me put in the tray as I cant really get my head around it and the other area of concern is how to tank the interface between the walls and the shower-tray and also the tiled walls where they meet the slab more generally? We want to create an (almost wet room) but its challenging because we are not going to add any tiles or screed etc to the concrete slab. As I understand the tanking products you would normally use a combo of liquid waterproofing "paint" and special tape to "tank"?

 

So a few questions - if either the Hardie or STS board is used and done in accordance with the respective manufacturer's procedures do I still need the tanking paint at all? Or maybe best to use it on the 3 shower walls at least? Next question is how to I waterproof the wall floor junction and wall/tray junction? Do I use the right angled tape and try to minimise the depth of tape stuck to the floor and tray to around the 12mm thickness of the marble tiles so that its hidden when the tiles are on?

 

And to get back to the niche issue - I want to create one in the shower and am attracted to the Schluter product you picture. Did you consider the version they sell that has an integrated LED? With the one you used is it easy enough to instal? Does it come with instructions? Do you need to use any of what seem to be numerous other Schluter products to make it waterproof or can you use generic products? Any other tips or critique of my plans....perhaps from @Nickfromwales ? thanks

[Susie]

For existing house.

After the tanking when fitting the tray we used this https://www.screwfix.com/p/mira-tile-upstand-strip-white-3-6m/5361x

before we tiled I can’t remember who told me about it but two years later I’m happy. 
For the niche I’m choosing pre formed but haven’t needed to choose which make yet as not out of ground yet. 

[Mike]

38 minutes ago, markharro said:

if either the Hardie or STS board is used and done in accordance with the respective manufacturer's procedures do I still need the tanking paint at all?

Hardie say that Hardie® Backer must be tanked with a suitable waterproofing system prior to tiling, so yes, if it's going to get seriously wet. I'd guess that STS would say similar.

Note that although the board may be unaffected by water, if it becomes permanently damp then the moisture may reach other materials behind / below it that may be less water-tolerant.

 

48 minutes ago, markharro said:

how to tank the interface between the walls and the shower-tray and also the tiled walls where they meet the slab more generally?

Tanking systems usually provide recommendations on this. However if the polished concrete is the finish outside the tray area, there's probably not much you can do with that part other than screen it from the water.

 

53 minutes ago, markharro said:

As I understand the tanking products you would normally use a combo of liquid waterproofing "paint" and special tape to "tank"?

The two main types are liquid tanking and waterproof film. If everything is in concrete & masonry where movement isn't likely, any type from a reputable brand should be fine.

 

It gets trickier if movement may occur. In my case I have UFCH so there's a perimeter expansion strip along the junction between the floor and the wall that could move a little. Schluter, have a detail for that - as may other waterproof film systems.

 

1 hour ago, markharro said:

Did you consider the version they sell that has an integrated LED?

No, I'm already installing 2 ceiling light circuits + an illuminated mirror, so an single illuminated niche wouldn't really be a worthwhile feature.

 

1 hour ago, markharro said:

With the one you used is it easy enough to install? Does it come with instructions?

Yes, with instructions and easy - create the correctly sized hole and screw it through the flanges to the studwork, with optional adhesive. No specific instructions for masonry, but I'd just fix it with adhesive.

 

1 hour ago, markharro said:

Do you need to use any of what seem to be numerous other Schluter products to make it waterproof or can you use generic products?

Schluter are certainly very fussy particular about what to use and how to do everything, but they generally have a good reputation. In principle you could mix and match, but it's probably not worth spending the time looking at what is and isn't compatible.

[Square Feet]

15 hours ago, Mike said:

It has a 13mm flange that's been recessed to sit flush with the surface of the plasterboard. The tanking system will then run over the flange to make it watertight. In a solid wall you could chip back the plaster to recess it similarly, or you could form the tanking into the recess as long as it's properly lapped all round.

 

In the past I've just created a recess, then rendered / boarded and tiled it. This time it will be sitting below a rain shower getting very wet, so needs to be full water proof and I chose pre-formed for ease.

 

BTW, slope the tiles a little to avoid water pooling at the back.

Great, thanks. That's very helpful.

[Pocster]

It’s funny all BM’s recommend hardi board . I went with this ditra type board . Light weight and easy to cut . Of course you’ll need noggins for bathroom fixings . Tile adhesive sticks to this board like sh*t . In the shower used their ‘tape’ , glue and paint on joints .

 

p.s obviously not my shower cubicle ! The boards dead useful for other things 

Edited November 21, 2023 by Pocster

[MAB]

I found this is thread above useful for advice on tanking when I did my walk-in shower tray a few years ago.....no leaks so far!

[MAB]

Also this old thread above is worth a look for tips and advice on sealants.