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Fitting floor units to wall

Featured Replies

Instructions suggest cutting a hole in the ‘cardboard’ back and inserting a L bracket . Seems a bit crap too me .

Really want to screw the unit through the back direct to wall . But as back is cardboard - no good .

How do I fix this rock solid to the wall ? . This is a corner unit so obviously could fit if the adjacent wall - but what about a row of floor units ??

IMG_8773.jpeg

IMG_8774.jpeg

Whats the need to fix them rock solid? None of mine are screwed to the wall and they've not moved anywhere. Don't forget you will be bolting each one to the next

Edited by MikeGrahamT21

  • Author
11 minutes ago, MikeGrahamT21 said:

Whats the need to fix them rock solid? None of mine are screwed to the wall and they've not moved anywhere. Don't forget you will be bolting each one to the next

Yeah I know . But I’m happier if all bolted to the wall . 

12 minutes ago, Pocster said:

Yeah I know . But I’m happier if all bolted to the wall . 

 

How about a modesty block into the top strut, and then a long screw or 2 (depending which way you install it) into the wall?

Assuming these are tall so you can't look down on them.  Screw an L shaped bracket to the wall at each side, dead level with the top cross member on each cabinet.  Put the cabinet in place, a single screw down through the L shaped bracket into the cross piece at the top of the unit.

Gut a length of wood. Ooh Er misses. 

38x63 or whatever stupid measurement that cls stuff comes in, rip it to the same size as the service void on the back of the carcass. 

Laser line around wall

fit batten to wall

screw cupboards back to batten. 

 

  • Author
6 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Assuming these are tall so you can't look down on them.  Screw an L shaped bracket to the wall at each side, dead level with the top cross member on each cabinet.  Put the cabinet in place, a single screw down through the L shaped bracket into the cross piece at the top of the unit.

These are low units. What you suggest is their recommendation for tall units - which I do have. My issue with those is I've only got about 5mm from unit top to ceiling.

Edited by Pocster

  • Author
2 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

Gut a length of wood. Ooh Er misses. 

38x63 or whatever stupid measurement that cls stuff comes in, rip it to the same size as the service void on the back of the carcass. 

Laser line around wall

fit batten to wall

screw cupboards back to batten. 

 

I could but it's still the cardboard back screwed to the batton. Not much strength there - the back of unit would flex.

Edited by Pocster

  • Author
9 minutes ago, MikeGrahamT21 said:

 

How about a modesty block into the top strut, and then a long screw or 2 (depending which way you install it) into the wall?

You mean?

 

 

IMG_8774.jpg

Get a pack of small brackets and fit one to the top of each side panel, screwed to the wall.  The worktop will cover them.

 

image.png.474fca1307a39b8aea25dbde0f953885.png

  • Author
29 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

Get a pack of small brackets and fit one to the top of each side panel, screwed to the wall.  The worktop will cover them.

 

image.png.474fca1307a39b8aea25dbde0f953885.png

If there’s a timber there 🙄😊

52 minutes ago, Pocster said:

You mean?

 

 

IMG_8774.jpg

Yeah on that piece.

 

You could also use the CLS Timber idea, and make a huge modesty block, running full length of unit, screwed to the cross member (or even better, down through the cross member) and then all the way through into the wall with bolts. Unit would still be the weakest component, but you'd have a good job breaking it

Edited by MikeGrahamT21

  • Author
11 minutes ago, MikeGrahamT21 said:

Yeah on that piece.

 

You could also use the CLS Timber idea, and make a huge modesty block, running full length of unit, screwed to the cross member (or even better, down through the cross member) and then all the way through into the wall with bolts. Unit would still be the weakest component, but you'd have a good job breaking it

I could indeed - that’s a good plan . I did forget to mention it’s a studded wall - so naturally I want to fix to that not pb .

16 minutes ago, Pocster said:

I could indeed - that’s a good plan . I did forget to mention it’s a studded wall - so naturally I want to fix to that not pb .

Way too late for you but we put 18mm ply along the kitchen walls to ensure there was something to fix to. 
 

maybe on the next one?

1 minute ago, Thorfun said:

Way too late for you but we put 18mm ply along the kitchen walls to ensure there was something to fix to. 
 

maybe on the next one?

Standard practice to fit dwangs (noggins) at just below worktop height and top of wall unit height before fitting plasterboard for that very reason.

  • Author
7 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

Way too late for you but we put 18mm ply along the kitchen walls to ensure there was something to fix to. 
 

maybe on the next one?

I got vertical timber studs so it shouldn’t be an issue to find a fixing .

Its the shitty cardboard type back that pisses me off .

 

As my kitchen runs into the lounge it would require osb / ply across the entire wall ( assuming I like it level ) 

Edited by Pocster

  • Author
Just now, ProDave said:

Standard practice to fit dwangs (noggins) at just below worktop height and top of wall unit height before fitting plasterboard for that very reason.

Ah well ! Now I could smash the wall out and do that - not an issue - just sounds like work .

  • Author

Guys ,

 

problem isn’t fitting to the wall - problem is a decent fitting off the unit .

29 minutes ago, Pocster said:

Guys ,

 

problem isn’t fitting to the wall - problem is a decent fitting off the unit .

Screw the discussed L shaped bracket to the wall into each stud, and then down through the L shaped bracket into that cross bar at the top of the unit.

 

What is so difficult?

screw short side of the bracket to the wall 1st then push cabinet back to wall screw long side of bracket into side of cabinet using an angled driver,

 

image.png.dbf292dd8ce8fb522c2b8a2ec102ae17.png

Edited by crispy_wafer

  • Author
24 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Screw the discussed L shaped bracket to the wall into each stud, and then down through the L shaped bracket into that cross bar at the top of the unit.

 

What is so difficult?

Nothing . You were just going on about ‘ proper ‘ way of noggins which suggests fixing to the wall is an issue - which it isn’t . My post was for clarification…

Screw through that bloody great brace at the back of the cupboard, not the cardboard shite. 

Fook me do I need to come and do it for you. 🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️

  • Author
11 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

Screw through that bloody great brace at the back of the cupboard, not the cardboard shite. 

Fook me do I need to come and do it for you. 🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️

I know . I know ! I’ve liked and thank’d ffs !

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