Alan Ambrose Posted March 20, 2023 Share Posted March 20, 2023 I saw a Scandinavian build video on youtube recently - the guy said 'we put up osb then plasterboard' because we expect to be able to hang things on the walls'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorfun Posted March 20, 2023 Share Posted March 20, 2023 13 minutes ago, Alan Ambrose said: I saw a Scandinavian build video on youtube recently - the guy said 'we put up osb then plasterboard' because we expect to be able to hang things on the walls'. I'm going through this dilemma at the moment. I want to put OSB behind the plasterboard but it's still stupidly expensive and funds are low. also, trying to figure out 9mm or 11mm OSB is hard as I haven't got a clue which would be enough! plus the cost difference over a large number of sheets. then, maybe I should simply double plasterboard instead as a sheet of plasterboard is cheaper than OSB. who'd be a self-builder, hey? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markocosic Posted March 20, 2023 Share Posted March 20, 2023 Glue a piece of wood to the face of the plasterboard with some goo: Glue and a screw. https://www.soudal.co.uk/diy/products/fix-all/fix-all/fix-all-turbo That will carry all shear loads AND any torsional loadings on the fastener that "wiggle it in the hole" and make it loose over time. Then clamp the wood to the plasterboard using your choice of "drill a bighole and wedge a thingamy behind it then screw into the thingamy. This will prevent the wood from peeling away from the plasterboard. (a pure tension fixing) You'll only need one at the top generally. That's how you hang huffing great 1600 x 700 T22 rads on plasterboard without them falling off when they're supplied with two brackets only. 🙂 Not my boarding but shows the idea: If you need to use one of those "wedge a thingy behind shove a screw in it fixings you can do worse than gobbing some carberfix style PU bubble glue on the fixing before fitting it. That'll then stick to the back of the plasterboard and you can remove / replace the screw later. 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted March 20, 2023 Share Posted March 20, 2023 6 hours ago, Thorfun said: OSB behind the plasterboard No. Most of it will be redundant. yes for toilets and perhaps yes for kitchens as it will support whatever you hang from it. Otherwise I have only specified it in certain school corridors because we know plasterboard will get kicked in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorfun Posted March 21, 2023 Share Posted March 21, 2023 8 hours ago, saveasteading said: No. Most of it will be redundant. yes for toilets and perhaps yes for kitchens as it will support whatever you hang from it. Otherwise I have only specified it in certain school corridors because we know plasterboard will get kicked in. what about the argument that I've read many times that a layer of OSB makes the internal walls feel more 'solid'? (there are many discussions on here iirc on the subject and it seems that the majority (again iirc!) are for adding a layer of OSB for rigidity/feel) if that's not the case or simply not really needed in a domestic environment then I can save a lot of money and can simply double plasterboard between rooms that need a bit more sound insulation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted March 21, 2023 Share Posted March 21, 2023 36 minutes ago, Thorfun said: internal walls feel more 'solid' If you want to go round tapping on them, then maybe. For that though, plasterboard is cheaper as you say, but also denser for acoustics. Remember that acoustics is density, from plasterboard; absorption from insulation; and isolation from double stud or resilient bar; plus careful jointing at the perimeter. After which noise still goes through the floor and ceiling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorfun Posted March 21, 2023 Share Posted March 21, 2023 2 minutes ago, saveasteading said: If you want to go round tapping on them, then maybe. For that though, plasterboard is cheaper as you say, but also denser for acoustics. Remember that acoustics is density, from plasterboard; absorption from insulation; and isolation from double stud or resilient bar; plus careful jointing at the perimeter. After which noise still goes through the floor and ceiling. thanks. definitely given me more to think about and to try and decide if it's worth it. money is really running low and i need to save where i can but i also don't want to not do something that i regret later as it'll be hard to remediate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted March 21, 2023 Share Posted March 21, 2023 1 minute ago, Thorfun said: try and decide if it's worth it. If you know where the toilet fittings are going exactly, then you can board inset between studs to get solid fixings. That needs only offcuts ov osb or any timber. Kitchen doesn't need strengthening but you can do the same at wall cuboard hangers for security. Elsewhere doesn't need it. For acoustics, in normal domestic situations it is normal to just put insulation in between rooms where you think a bit of quiet is preferable. Up to you to improve it if you want, but not osb. There you are. No osb required, or a few offcuts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted March 21, 2023 Author Share Posted March 21, 2023 15 hours ago, Thorfun said: I'm going through this dilemma at the moment. I want to put OSB behind the plasterboard but it's still stupidly expensive and funds are low. also, trying to figure out 9mm or 11mm OSB is hard as I haven't got a clue which would be enough! plus the cost difference over a large number of sheets. then, maybe I should simply double plasterboard instead as a sheet of plasterboard is cheaper than OSB. who'd be a self-builder, hey? Perhaps just put it in the kitchen? Possibly one wall in the living room if you plan to hang a TV. Possibly the bathroom if you think you might have a cabinet? Perhaps not bother in other rooms. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted March 21, 2023 Share Posted March 21, 2023 15 hours ago, Thorfun said: I'm going through this dilemma at the moment. I want to put OSB behind the plasterboard but it's still stupidly expensive and funds are low. also, trying to figure out 9mm or 11mm OSB is hard as I haven't got a clue which would be enough! plus the cost difference over a large number of sheets. then, maybe I should simply double plasterboard instead as a sheet of plasterboard is cheaper than OSB. who'd be a self-builder, hey? 9mm osb is absolutely a waste of time you won’t get a fixing in it, 11mm minimum, but I have 18mm behind most walls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorfun Posted March 21, 2023 Share Posted March 21, 2023 1 hour ago, Russell griffiths said: 9mm osb is absolutely a waste of time you won’t get a fixing in it, 11mm minimum, but I have 18mm behind most walls. at £19.50+VAT per sheet of 18mm OSB i just can't afford it. was going to put 18mm in the kitchen for units to hang off. all toilets are Geberit wall-hung frames so nothing needed there for the toilets. i guess it's just basins that might need something but can put noggins in the walls for that. TV i'm not worried about as they're pretty light these days and, as we've seen above, there are some good fittings for that sort of thing. looks like i'll not bother with OSB then. should save me a substantial amount of money. it's not like we go around taping walls to see if they're hollow or not and they'll all have 50mm rockwool RWA45 in them anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted March 21, 2023 Share Posted March 21, 2023 4 minutes ago, Thorfun said: it's not like we go around tapping walls You soon will though, in other buildings, because you will have become a wall nerd. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted March 21, 2023 Share Posted March 21, 2023 I have used Fermacell instead of plasterboard. It holds a screw really well. It is an absolute pig to use though and expensive. Heavy and difficult to cut. It is sometimes used double boarded in prisons as it is very tough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thorfun Posted March 21, 2023 Share Posted March 21, 2023 26 minutes ago, Mr Punter said: I have used Fermacell instead of plasterboard. It holds a screw really well. It is an absolute pig to use though and expensive. Heavy and difficult to cut. It is sometimes used double boarded in prisons as it is very tough. tbh, the way we live our lives this will be overkill. we mostly put paintings/photos/artwork on the wall and that's not that heavy and even a normal plasterboard rawlplug would hold most of it. any locations where we're going to put shelves i can measure and mark where the studs are on a plan and aim for screwing in to the service cavity battens! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted March 21, 2023 Share Posted March 21, 2023 28 minutes ago, Mr Punter said: I have used Fermacell instead of plasterboard. It holds a screw really well. It is an absolute pig to use though and expensive. I'm planning to use GypsoLignum - on the spectrum between Fermacell and HD plasterboard - with some very interesting properties. It can support 40kg on a regular screw / 80kg with a plug and screw / 125kg with an expanding plasterboard fixing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryE Posted March 21, 2023 Share Posted March 21, 2023 The nice thing about the rivet-like anchors is that the piston gives you enough purchase that the outer flange gets buried slightly so it ends up pretty flush to the plaster. Very discrete. After touching up with paint, even with the hanging removed you can still only see a small hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markocosic Posted March 21, 2023 Share Posted March 21, 2023 Double plasterboard all the way. Cheap as chips and will sound better. Kitchens use hanging rails for units and mount to studs. Also with glue. 9 mm OSB is only useful as a "washer" for better spreading load from plasterboard fixings. Useful but not with the hassle. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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