Onoff Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 Round where I live it was the done thing to put a layer of broken glass on the dirt before any concrete slab was laid. This to deter the rats from burrowing up through the concrete! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 Mice will get through a hole the size of a pencil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 5 minutes ago, Onoff said: Mice will get through a hole the size of a pencil. What size pencil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelvin Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 We never had a problem with rats around the chickens for several years until we put the house on the market. They had obvious seen the for sale sign. Despite my best efforts they’d moved into (under) coup. It was quite fascinating what they had built. Living quarters well insulated with feathers and some actual insulation, a larder, and an en-suite loo. My only criticism was too much wasted space to hallways. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 2 minutes ago, Kelvin said: We never had a problem with rats around the chickens for several years until we put the house on the market. They had obvious seen the for sale sign. Despite my best efforts they’d moved into (under) coup. It was quite fascinating what they had built. Living quarters well insulated with feathers and some actual insulation, a larder, and an en-suite loo. My only criticism was too much wasted space to hallways. Did you find their heat loss calcs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 22 minutes ago, SteamyTea said: What size pencil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted March 14, 2023 Author Share Posted March 14, 2023 (edited) What if rather than wire mesh fence the space around the shed I just wrap the whole floor from underneath with this mesh? So let's say first a paving slab for load distribution, then a concrete block then mesh then DPM and only then the pallets? Then I don't care what dwells under the building, besides cats can get there. Edited March 14, 2023 by JohnBishop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 15, 2023 Share Posted March 15, 2023 On 14/03/2023 at 00:30, JohnBishop said: What if rather than wire mesh fence the space around the shed I just wrap the whole floor from underneath with this mesh? So let's say first a paving slab for load distribution, then a concrete block then mesh then DPM and only then the pallets? Then I don't care what dwells under the building, besides cats can get there. If cat's can get in then so likely can foxes. That's the last thing you want! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted March 16, 2023 Author Share Posted March 16, 2023 (edited) On 15/03/2023 at 10:46, Onoff said: If cat's can get in then so likely can foxes. That's the last thing you want! I think I just put an anti-weed membrane a paving slab, metal net, DPM and pallets. I don't want any gaps underneath. It looks too big of a hustle to manage. I have some Tarmac 3.6N blocks but these are not good for support. I think they disintegrate in a matter of months. I am not erecting this in the woods but 2m from my house. Edited March 16, 2023 by JohnBishop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted March 17, 2023 Author Share Posted March 17, 2023 On 06/03/2023 at 12:40, Onoff said: Aside from any weed membrane you want a damp proof membrane on top of your blocks, then your pallet shed. We anchored a 4x2 wall plate around our slab perimeter then screwed the pallets to that when we did my nephew's pallet shed: His slab had a DPM under it. The wall plate then sat on a DPC abovevthr slab edge. The DPM got folded downward and clad over. You'll then of course need a "floor" atop the DPM or it'll be a bit slippery! Paving slabs are an option or even pallet wood. You could lay some insulation under it too. Ideally any timber wants to be 6" above ground level. He was going to grade/lower the dirt around the shed but hadn't gotten around to it last time I was there. Did he bolt these pallets together? I am still thinking how to connect them up properly but then I don't want to waste another $1000 on some expensive screws/nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 17, 2023 Share Posted March 17, 2023 3 hours ago, JohnBishop said: Did he bolt these pallets together? I am still thinking how to connect them up properly but then I don't want to waste another $1000 on some expensive screws/nuts. Screwed together. I've a stock of low grade, M10, nuts and long bolts here. It's what I'll use. Covered in grease probably. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted March 18, 2023 Author Share Posted March 18, 2023 14 hours ago, Onoff said: Screwed together. I've a stock of low grade, M10, nuts and long bolts here. It's what I'll use. Covered in grease probably. right but this will require like 25cm long bolts, is it? I have to screw these cubes together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaz_moose Posted March 18, 2023 Share Posted March 18, 2023 probably cheaper to cut up some threaded bar or to use coach bolts that using an engineering type bolt. its not like you need grade 8.8 or above for a shed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 18, 2023 Share Posted March 18, 2023 5 hours ago, JohnBishop said: right but this will require like 25cm long bolts, is it? I have to screw these cubes together. Yes, I'm lucky to have lots of them about that length. Only thing is my ones are black. They were used to secure cable drums together. If I didn't have these I'd buy the cheapest, zinc plated studding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 18, 2023 Share Posted March 18, 2023 Top left corner of the pallets, you can see the one of the M10 bolts and the 50x50 square, M10 galv washer used to secure the corner together. Before putting the next level of pallets on, you slip in "uprights" the same width as the existing pallet uprights. Gave them sticking up and screw to them through the top and bottom pallet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted March 20, 2023 Author Share Posted March 20, 2023 (edited) On 18/03/2023 at 19:34, Onoff said: Yes, I'm lucky to have lots of them about that length. Only thing is my ones are black. They were used to secure cable drums together. If I didn't have these I'd buy the cheapest, zinc plated studding. I have seen this video on YT: This man just screws these Euro pallets with long wood screws. I mean Euro pallets are extra strong. I think he didn't put a DPM or a net like you suggested but anyway. I think Euro pallets for the floor is a good idea but for the walls I think it's an overkill. The end product is a quite thick wall. I found a local supplier of these pallets: I think these are the same ones your friend used. No pallet has been created equal. Some have wooden 50x50 cubes some have some OSB. Does it matter much? These are the ones I have: Can I use these blocks for support or should I get solid dense 7N blocks? Before I put anything I still have to level the area which will require removing some earth and trim the hedge further. I was considering building a roof to accommodate future PV panels but the 36 angle is still too steep for a shed's roof especially if I have to fit everything under 2.5m. Lastly what is this regulation that the building has to be built of "substantially" fireproof materials? "ie built of steel / concrete / brick and mortar with or without a timber frame... the roof CAN be built-up roofing felt (NOT simple nailed on shed roofing felt (its not thick enough unless layered felt with bitumen "glue" between layers))" Obviously sheds are not fireproof. Edited March 20, 2023 by JohnBishop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted March 21, 2023 Author Share Posted March 21, 2023 I have dug out some earth in attempt to level the area. Over the years the dead matter has accumulated next to the hedge. I have removed more than I need but I will be moving the soil from left to right to level it out. The hedge will require more pruning if I want to work around the shed. Someone put like doors or door frames what have rotted out by now. The size is going to be 3 Euro pallets by 4. So 3x80cm by 4x120cm so 240cm by 480cm = 11.52sqm The angle has to be adjusted because with the red line the shed won't be straight to the house. I lean against the wall of the house and I can see that's off by few degree. It has to be more or less with the blue line so more digging. Possibly the boundary is not in line with the houses. I have about 9 of these large and thick slabs. I think I am going to use them to support the whole structure. I would like to move the shed a bit away of the boundary but there is a tree stamp sticking out(not on the picture) and I won't be able to fit 3 pallets 240cm wide. Once moved it's a lot more earth. Is there anything else I should do to protect the building vs the hedge? I was thinking about roof slope and I see most people build roofs to slope down from front to back of the building BUT I want to collect rainwater and if I slope down away the gutters are going to be filled with leafs from that hedge. In any case if the gutter is in front then it's easier to maintain it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted March 23, 2023 Author Share Posted March 23, 2023 The following day I have levelled the area. As you can see I have few of these thicker council slabs. These will go to the corners and sides first and then I cover the rest with yellow ones. Before I lay them down I cover the area with antiweed membrane. The question I have if these 13mm nets are sufficient and which one should I pick: Wickes 13mm Galvanised Wire Netting - 600mm x 10m Wickes 13mm Garden Cage & Aviary Galvanised Wire - 900mm x 6m The net will go under the DPM and pallet. I lit both DPM and the net high enough I reckon 50cm to prevent any water splashing then felt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 23, 2023 Share Posted March 23, 2023 I'd go for the 600mm X 10m, holes are "squarer". 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 23, 2023 Share Posted March 23, 2023 Don't forget to tie the mesh together where it meets or "they" might get through the "sag". 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted March 23, 2023 Author Share Posted March 23, 2023 (edited) What do you think about putting some polythene onto the walls and roof? This is what Colin Furze did on his walls and roof. Shouldn't I use a breathable membrane instead? Would you recommend any membrane specifically? I see some people using Rhino Vent Ultra. I see Onduline at Wicks but there is so many types Air 95, Air 100, 120, 140. And what do you think about painting the OSB/plywood with Black Jack Bitumen paint? Edited March 23, 2023 by JohnBishop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted April 3, 2023 Author Share Posted April 3, 2023 Next phase. Should I put the anti-weed membrane under the slabs or it is not needed? is there anything that can infest? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 3, 2023 Share Posted April 3, 2023 18 hours ago, JohnBishop said: is there anything that can infest? Foxes, rats, bellbind, Japanese knotweed, wasps, social bees etc. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBishop Posted April 3, 2023 Author Share Posted April 3, 2023 2 hours ago, Onoff said: Foxes, rats, bellbind, Japanese knotweed, wasps, social bees etc. Does it have to be some reinforced antiweed membrane or the regular membrane. I reckon this one biodegrades after some years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 3, 2023 Share Posted April 3, 2023 22 minutes ago, JohnBishop said: Does it have to be some reinforced antiweed membrane or the regular membrane. I reckon this one biodegrades after some years. SWMBO's just said the cheap ones go brittle in sunlight. You pays yer money etc! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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