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First time plaster-boarding attempt


Dan1983

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Evening all,

Please could I ask for some advice on plasterboarding.

I have started to board out my oak frame/ wood clad garage.

It has a breather membrane then 50mm celotex, then 12.5mm plasterboard on top.

The uprights I’m fixing to are 600 centers but not really wide enough to fix two boards to.

This means I’m ending up with approx 450mm overhang on some boards due to the spacing.

There is no movement in the boards as they are hard up against the celotex.

Will this cause issues later?

Only thing I can think of doing is bonding the unscrewed section of board to the celotex.

 

Thanks for any pointers!

 

 

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Ah, schoolboy error. You have 600mm centres so should have one stud in the centre and one each end of each board ( hence 1200mm boards ).

You can get some Knauf board adhesive in tube form, loosen the board off, and bond them onto the PIR and to each other. Use a scraper and a sponge to clean up excess, and don't go mad with the adhesive. 

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4 minutes ago, Dan1983 said:

Thank you guys,

Yes error on my part!

Glad I’ve learnt this lesson on the walls and not the ceiling!

Ive ordered some adhesive and will bond the edges.

Think I should stick to my day job!

Don’t stress or worry about it, learn and move on. We all f@#k up at times.

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oak frame Dave so I’m leaving the beams exposed so boards will remain separate if that makes sense.

 

Still toying with the idea of painting the ceiling joists and recessing the plaster board to give a beam effect but seems like a load of timber and effort and less room for insulation 

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1 minute ago, Dan1983 said:

oak frame Dave so I’m leaving the beams exposed so boards will remain separate if that makes sense.

 

Still toying with the idea of painting the ceiling joists and recessing the plaster board to give a beam effect but seems like a load of timber and effort and less room for insulation 

Get the amount of insulation in that you want, and cover the ceiling joists ( as they're just cheap tanalised timber anyways ). Plasterboard right through, and then get some reclaimed oak sections made up and screw on these lengths to make it look like the joist ( rafter ) ends were exposed. You need markers so you can screw through these and into the covered timber, for fixing them. Recess the screw heads slightly, and make plugs to fill the screw holes.

 

Plaster up to the faux oak timbers so you have a rustic edge ( as you'll have on the walls ) and then get yourself painted, and off to the pub. 

 

Faux beams can be made to look authentic quite easily, and would look shit-loads better than a plain ceiling in there ( IMO ) :) 

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Cheers for info Nick.

That was reason for potentially painting the joists as treated so would look naff plain as you say.

Kind of wish we had done  fake beams in the main house to give some more character but sure that was looking quite pricey at the time!

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1 hour ago, Dan1983 said:

😂

Do I need to fill the bullet holes or just let them be skimmed over?

i think the parcel is a lamp post but is a dodgy shape!

The skim will sort the screw craters

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3 hours ago, pocster said:

Suck on this humans 

image.jpg

Before you all bitch …

 

300 centres because plasterboard is only 9.5mm . Short boards as I can’t get full boards down my temporary staircase . So noggins at joins . Timbers deliberately left visible above ceiling line so I can 

a) fix any ha / electrics to them 

b) no need to “ hunt the timber “ when I need a wall fixing .

 

So there !

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