What building regs apply to a wooden garage,?

[joe90]

Can’t be arsed with building regs fir such a small garage, less than 30 sq m it is going to be 👍

[Kelvin]

I went the other way and went quite big and insulated as part of theplanning application for a 10.5m x 6m building with insulated floor, walls and roof. It’s a lot dearer of course. But I want to be able to use it year round. 

 

I realise you don’t want to go through the planning agro. But if you knew the answer would be yes what would you build? 

[SteamyTea]

3 minutes ago, Kelvin said:

insulated floor

That could be any size though.

 

 

[joe90]

4 hours ago, Kelvin said:

I realise you don’t want to go through the planning agro. But if you knew the answer would be yes what would you build? 

No, I am going through planning simply to be nearer than 2 mtrs but more than 1 meter from the neighbours wall with a hip roof, if they don’t give me planning permission I will build a flat roof which comes under PD. It’s not worth the agro of building regs fir just a few sq mtrs.

[Post and beam]

Is the <36 sq/m the reason for 'single garage and open cart lodge' designs?  I guess the cart lodge bit is not counted.

[SteamyTea]

1 hour ago, joe90 said:

I will build a flat roof which comes under PD. It’s not worth the agro of building regs fir just a few sq mtrs.

Rounding errors.

Both of us are quote short, I am 5' 6 1/2".  That half inch is important, so once rounded, I am 6 foot tall.

 

(sometimes imperial units are better for comical affect)

[joe90]

On 19/02/2023 at 19:15, Post and beam said:

Is the <36 sq/m the reason for 'single garage and open cart lodge' designs? 

No, 36 sq m is a full double garage, however for me it’s fir my classic car and motorbike so 1 1/2 garage really.

[joe90]

On 18/02/2023 at 17:26, Mr Punter said:

Have you priced it in brick or block?  I think it would be my preference and no need to worry about distance to boundary from the fire POV.

Foundations will be deep and tricky because of the ground build up (although I would prefer it) laying a slab and timber build on top a lot less work.

[saveasteading]

3 hours ago, joe90 said:

laying a slab and timber build on top

probably all you need. 

[Big Jimbo]

Only my opinion, but in the last couple of weeks i put up a large log cabin from DH for One of my neighbours. I thought it was shite, poor quality, and i bet that the joins open up when it dries out. Security, and fitment,  on the door was very poor.  Personally, i would rather stick build One.

[joe90]

38 minutes ago, Big Jimbo said:

Only my opinion, but in the last couple of weeks i put up a large log cabin from DH for One of my neighbours. I thought it was shite, poor quality, and i bet that the joins open up when it dries out. Security, and fitment,  on the door was very poor.  Personally, i would rather stick build One.

Can you share the manufacturer?

[SteamyTea]

4 hours ago, Big Jimbo said:

and i bet that the joins open up when it dries out.

Our log saunas has long coach bolts that were used to tighten up the logs every few weeks when they were first installed.

Obviously airtightness was not the main concern with a sauna, but it was not unusual to have a 100°C temperature difference.

[joe90]

15 hours ago, Big Jimbo said:

and i bet that the joins open up when it dries out

With most “log cabin” type builds when the logs shrink (which they will) the building gets slightly shorter, no vertical timbers to stop it. The windows and door frames have sliding fixtures and gaps at the top to allow shrinkage to happen without gaps opening up. 

[Big Jimbo]

Jo, It was Dunster house. If i was to do one for myself, i would have to treat the whole thing before i considered putting it together. The sliding fixtures for the windows and doors are a whole bunch of fun to get to engage. The windows and the door frame are defo a very weak point, and very lightly made. Just not my thing i'm afraid. If you get One, fit guttering, or the bottom logs will rot out very quickly. If you fit it on either a slab or concrete base, you need to stop the water splash from the roof sides where the water runs off.

[saveasteading]

28 minutes ago, Big Jimbo said:

It was Dunster house

I went to their Kent depot to look at examples, but they have closed it and it is now a distribution centre only. They seemed very surprised that i wanted to inspect, and said it is now online only.  That concerns me considerably.

 

There was one shed, the gatehouse. Seemed ok, but not as thick timbers as I recalled the spec, and being 10 years old, is that good or too long ago to be relevsnt?

 

I wonder if anyone on here has used/seen the latvian make.

[joe90]

1 hour ago, saveasteading said:

wonder if anyone on here has used/seen the latvian make.

Can you expand?

[saveasteading]

41 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Can you expand?

I meant has anyone used or inspected the structures from Quick Garden, as mentioned above.

[joe90]

The trust pilot reviews are all good (fir what they are worth).

[joe90]

The only part of the above kit I am not happy with is the treated timber sole plate onto the concrete fooor. Other stick built garages ask fir a single brick with DPC fir the sole plate to rest on. I am considering using plastic roofing battens instead of their treated timber to go on the floor. It wood be a shame for the sole plate to rot out and be very difficult to replace without demolishing the whole thing.

[crispy_wafer]

5 minutes ago, joe90 said:

The only part of the above kit I am not happy with is the treated timber sole plate onto the concrete fooor. Other stick built garages ask fir a single brick with DPC fir the sole plate to rest on. I am considering using plastic roofing battens instead of their treated timber to go on the floor. It wood be a shame for the sole plate to rot out and be very difficult to replace without demolishing the whole thing.

 

Great point, our stables that we inherited are built soleplate onto concrete base, albeit, they are probably subjected to a bit more moisture.  The soleplates do rot out in time.  You can remove cladding etc and knock them out and replace, but it's time and hassle, when really a slight design tweak at the beginning that doesn't cost an awful lot extra can easily mitigate against.

[Gone West]

2 hours ago, joe90 said:

I am considering using plastic roofing battens instead of their treated timber to go on the floor.

I used plastic wood between the bottom of the shed and the concrete slab. It's a metal shed though and I thought it might be easier to seal to the concrete than the metal.

 

https://www.kedel.co.uk/recycled-plastic-wood/recycled-plastic-wood-synthetic-wood-100-x-20mm.html

 

 

[saveasteading]

This is a really good point. It seems to me that timber treatment is much more superficial than it used to be,  with very little reacing the insides. Even fully treated timber does rot though.

 

I have experidnce of 4 timber buildimgs with 4 solutions.

1. My garden shed sits on timber bearers on concrete and is ok after 15 years. Crucial is that the shed overhangs so most water tuns away.

2. Current conversion. The timber bearers are on dpc on blockwork, and the cladding sheds rain to ground.

3. A 3 storey building. The timber frame company did not accept brick but required a concrete upstand. We used concrete lintels, which apparently was a first, but they were happy. But then had brick skin.

4. Ditto but a concrete slab up to dpc level. Sole plates straight onto it, brick outside again.

 

Only no 1. Really applies to this garage which is really a shed.  The wall slats appear to sit on the base, and be susceptible to wetting. Therefore i think a raised edge in masonry or concrete is called for. That will leave a gap under the doors, but a concrete hump would be a good thing anyway to keep water out.

 

My other concern is that t snd g doesn't stack well. The slightest twist in one plank leaves gaps everywhere else.

[joe90]

44 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

Crucial is that the shed overhangs so most water tuns away.

Garage specs say slab 200mm bigger than garage each side so a plastic bearer (on some form of “glue” will stop water ingress.) plus the bottom “log” sat on mastic of some sort.

47 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

That will leave a gap under the doors,

Not if the “plastic” continues across the doorway to stop water ingress as a threshold strip. (25mm).

[saveasteading]

37 minutes ago, joe90 said:

slab 200mm bigger than garage each side

For strength of a weak slab that makes sense structurally. But it will collect water and be generally unpleasant even if not a leak or rot instigator.

I suppose the slab could slope away at this point but this is getting over precise.

I am going off this construction.

OR I will work something out that I am OK with. I think this involves raising all timber off the slab.

 

 

The plastic bearer you mention: is this effectively a shoe that forms both a dpc and an outer barrier? Then sealed with mastic I suppose. Sounds sheddish rather than garageish.

Maybe Ok for Latvian or continental weather , but not our damp and drizzle.

 

Thinking about it, my garden shed has a floor on bearers, so this can overshoot the slab then support the walls.  N/A for the t & g construction.

 

[joe90]

25 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

I suppose the slab could slope away at this point but this is getting over precise.

Difficult to lay a slab with sloping sides 🤷‍♂️

26 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

I think this involves raising all timber off the slab.

Correct, plastic 25mm between slab and “logs”

27 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

The plastic bearer you mention: is this effectively a shoe that forms both a dpc and an outer barrier? Then sealed with mastic I suppose. Sounds sheddish rather than garageish.

Just replacing the treated timber sole plate (25mm x 50mm) with plastic, mastic underneath to stop water ingress (DPC), mastic on top to stop water ingress in join from plastic to timber.