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Shallow profile transformer


Adsibob

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We are trying to use an Alexa Echo Show as a video intercom screen. It works perfectly, except that it sticks out a bit more than it’s comfortable for opening an adjacent cupboard. The profile of the plug it came with (which I believe is a transformer) is 44mm. Do shallower transformers exist?

here are the specs:B39CEF2D-4C1B-45D3-AB71-0558C27CF461.thumb.jpeg.95c73ce8be236096d64273ec4299969e.jpeg

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Plug it into a trailing socket lead?

 

Edit: sometimes the US or EU version of the transformer is much slimmer profile, so hooking one of those into a trailing socket has been a trick I used on occasion 

Edited by joth
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Any 18V DC >1.7A adaptor should work fine. You could get one with the transformer in a brick in the cable rather than in the plug.

 

What connector does it have? Unfortunately there are many versions of the standard 5.5mm barrel jack. Typically the pin diameter on the inside varies (eg 2.1mm or 2.5mm) meaning some combinations won't fit and some are loose. Some universal adaptors come with interchangeable jack plugs for this reason. 

 

Edit: something like this..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Replacement-AC-DC-Adaptor-Supply-onbeat/dp/B0B4PCF7LC/ref=sr_1_37?crid=31XW1JLVMCYRC&keywords=18v+dc+power+adapter&qid=1672165108&sprefix=18v+dc+%2Caps%2C230&sr=8-37

 

But check your kit is centre positive.

 

Edited by Temp
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1 hour ago, Temp said:

Any 18V DC >1.7A adaptor should work fine. You could get one with the transformer in a brick in the cable rather than in the plug.

 

What connector does it have? Unfortunately there are many versions of the standard 5.5mm barrel jack. Typically the pin diameter on the inside varies (eg 2.1mm or 2.5mm) meaning some combinations won't fit and some are loose. Some universal adaptors come with interchangeable jack plugs for this reason. 

 

Edit: something like this..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Replacement-AC-DC-Adaptor-Supply-onbeat/dp/B0B4PCF7LC/ref=sr_1_37?crid=31XW1JLVMCYRC&keywords=18v+dc+power+adapter&qid=1672165108&sprefix=18v+dc+%2Caps%2C230&sr=8-37

 

But check your kit is centre positive.

 

The unit you’ve linked to has an output of 18v at 3.25A, whereas the one that came with the Alexa Echo Show I have is 18v at 1.67A. Does that matter?

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2 hours ago, ProDave said:

Can we see a picture of the whole thing in situ so fully understand the "problem"?

It’sa very first world “problem”, I accept, but I seem to spend (waste?) all my free time on such niggles these days.

 

The cupboard and the shelf has not been built yet, but this drawing should give you an idea; we have a Ring doorbell linked to an Echo Show that we would like to place on the wall, on a shelf, in such a way that the Echo Show will neatly conceal the 13A socket (which cannot now be moved without redecorating):

5CACB020-1B5F-404B-BBFA-D153E2F15465.thumb.jpeg.cb5676afd8d39832a646c454daf4e88e.jpeg

The deeper the shelf, the more restricted the opening of one of the cupboard doors. The Echo Show is already quite bulky at almost 15cm deep. With the 44mm deep transformer it becomes rather silly.

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Just now, ProDave said:

What is the build up of the wall?  Recess the socket in the wall (I do this behind wall hung tv's) to the wall wart does not extend in front of the wall. Does not matter what it looks like, it is hidden.

It’s a cavity wall. I didn’t specify the details for this particular wall, but it will be breeze block and then plasterboard for the inside skin, then insulation in the cavity. Are you suggesting I basically sink the back box of the socket into the wall further?

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9 minutes ago, Adsibob said:

It’s a cavity wall. I didn’t specify the details for this particular wall, but it will be breeze block and then plasterboard for the inside skin, then insulation in the cavity. Are you suggesting I basically sink the back box of the socket into the wall further?

Yes. As much as you dare without bursting through the back of the breeze block.  25mm back box, flat plate socket, should be able to end up with the face of the socket well back from the plasterboard so the wall wart won't stick out much, if at all.  Might need to recess the plaster a bit below the socket as well as the wall wart hangs below the socket.  I have done this several times for ultra flat tv brackets so the socket and plug does not stick out from the wall.

 

Or can you just not find a much slimmer device, I mean 15 CM deep is ridiculous these days.

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47mm back box with PSU in that? 

 

How deep is the block on the inner leaf? You can go deeper with socket extensions. For example:

 

https://www.edwardes.co.uk/products/appleby-sb680-2gang-25mm-extension-box-frame?

 

This one is 79x54x33 for instance:

 

https://www.powersuppliesonline.co.uk/gsm36b18-p1j-36w-18v-2a-power-adapter.html

 

Might need a right angle figure of 8 plug inside etc. Put a DP switch in a switch blank. 

 

Depends how handy you are / confident with electrics but a low profile as in pretty much invisible solution is possible. 

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2 hours ago, ProDave said:

Or can you just not find a much slimmer device, I mean 15 CM deep is ridiculous these days.

For about £70 I can get a Fire 8 HD Plus which is a tablet, but can be put into “Show Mode” to effectively work like an Echo Show. Only problem is that I lose the loud speaker on the Echo Show which we use as the chime in the ring, and I also have to build a slim cradle/charging dock for it - as the Amazon branded dock is 15cm deep, defeating the whole exercise (as well as costing another £45 or so). It’s an option, but I think a transformer that is separate to the plug, such that the transformer can be hidden under the shelf, might work well. Just need to find the transformer. Hopefully somebody will answer the question I had about the transformer @Temp posted.

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4 hours ago, Adsibob said:

The unit you’ve linked to has an output of 18v at 3.25A, whereas the one that came with the Alexa Echo Show I have is 18v at 1.67A. Does that matter?

 

Get a 2A one like I linked. Higher amperage won't really matter, the device will just take what it needs. Just don't go lower than 1.7A. The bigger you go A wise the bigger it will be physically. If you got clever you could likely even hide the transformer section (it's actually a PSU) in a routed out pocket underneath the shelf if you made that appear "deep".

Edited by Onoff
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Not meant as a serious post but....

 

This thing has a screen, so you can see (via the ring camera) who is at the door, and it has a speaker, to go ding dong when you press the button.

 

Replace with an old school wired door bell with the chime unit in a more central place in the house, and a spy hole through the door to see who is there.

 

No need for the shelf and you will wonder why there is a socket there.

 

I'll get my coat.

  • Haha 1
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1 hour ago, ProDave said:

Not meant as a serious post but....

 

This thing has a screen, so you can see (via the ring camera) who is at the door, and it has a speaker, to go ding dong when you press the button.

 

Replace with an old school wired door bell with the chime unit in a more central place in the house, and a spy hole through the door to see who is there.

 

No need for the shelf and you will wonder why there is a socket there.

 

I'll get my coat.

Very funny. As I mentioned, the type of door we have won’t take a peep hole.

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