Nickfromwales Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 Never, EVER, paint where tiles are going . New plaster gets sized with a 50/50 mix of primer, then a coat of neat primer, then two or three coats of tanking, then tiles. Fyi, with tanked areas, also NEVER use acrylic ( ready made ) tile adhesive. It has to be cementitious, powder adhesive. With painted walls, the water in the adhesive reconstitutes the paint and then the lot just separates and any bond ( purchase ) goes with it. A customer of mine once "helped out" by painting everywhere, including every INCH of the bastard bathroom and the kitchen splash back areas, prior to me turning up to tile......( all of which I then had to scrape back with a Jack saw, at his expense ). Edit to add : tiling directly onto the plasterboard is my favoured method tbh, but I know you've had the place skimmed so I'll keep that to myself 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted July 2, 2017 Author Share Posted July 2, 2017 The good news is, the one wall that will be 100% tiled was left unskimmed. But we decided the part-tiled walls would be best skimmed, rather than try to only skim sections of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 5 minutes ago, Crofter said: The good news is, the one wall that will be 100% tiled was left unskimmed. But we decided the part-tiled walls would be best skimmed, rather than try to only skim sections of them. ? Better to skim the part tiled walls if your not used to spacing the adhesive out to compensate for when it gets skimmed afterwards. Not doing that means the skim covers a good bit of the tile edge trim whereas skimming first sees the trim meeting the skim, so flush and full. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 This is one of my current jobs. Tiles straight onto MR PB and the trims fitted prior to skimming. I purposely fitted 12mm trims where I could have got away with 10mm, and I set the tiles an extra 2mm off the walls so the skim didn't eat too far into the visible trim. I'll post a pic tomw of the skimmed and painted job, ( one I skimmed myself to make sure the trims didn't get 'dinked' by the trowel ). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 18 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: This is one of my current jobs. Tiles straight onto MR PB and the trims fitted prior to skimming. I purposely fitted 12mm trims where I could have got away with 10mm, and I set the tiles an extra 2mm off the walls so the skim didn't eat too far into the visible trim. I'll post a pic tomw of the skimmed and painted job, ( one I skimmed myself to make sure the trims didn't get 'dinked' by the trowel ). That looks like mine.....will.....one day! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 39 minutes ago, Onoff said: That looks like mine.....will.....one day! One day this will all be yours ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted July 8, 2017 Author Share Posted July 8, 2017 Ooft. Now that I am doing the top coat in some rooms (Leyland Hardwearing Matt, in pure brilliant white) I've got the task of painting white on white and it is doing my head in. I expected a bigger difference between the contract white and the PBW, but it's almost impossible to see where you've been, unless you can get the angle of the light just right to see the slight sheen. Any tips for this? I could try rigging up more lighting, but I already feel like I'm going snow-blind... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 (edited) I did the same white on white and as you say just used the fact that the wet paint is shiny. I found it easier without too much light. Edited July 8, 2017 by PeterStarck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney12 Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 Tape an el cheapo LED mini torch to the end of your roller pole? Not too much other direct light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 (edited) Valspar paint mentioned in this thread turns out to smell of cat pee sometimes. Avoid until you know it is OK, or if you like cats A LOT. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-40655163 Edited July 19, 2017 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lesgrandepotato Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 We've been getting on well with a 100l of leyland trade brilliant white for fresh plaster. Slightly watered and then a second coat. Looks the part and goes on easy. Managing to get it for 17.50 a tub locally so £175 to paint the whole house seems reasonable value! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 (edited) 9 hours ago, Lesgrandepotato said: We've been getting on well with a 100l of leyland trade brilliant white for fresh plaster. Slightly watered and then a second coat. Looks the part and goes on easy. Managing to get it for 17.50 a tub locally so £175 to paint the whole house seems reasonable value! @Lesgrandepotato Hey! Love it when people aim to sweat the detailed costs and spend it on getting a better house, affording a house in the first place, an extra bathroom, dinner or lollipops. If you mean this stuff ie Leyland Trade Brilliant White Matt paint in 10l tubs, then we can probably help you save some more next time. If I have the wrong one the ideas may help anyway. This weekend (I would wait until Monday for reasons below) I would be paying £12 a tub for that at Wickes, which is my closest DIY shed. Others may be able to do better. These are some steps you can do in the order they would apply at Wickes. You may not have all of these, but you could do some of them, and perhaps some different things if you look around. 1 - Basic price at Wickes £19.99 per 10l tub. 2 - Bulk buy offer: £15.99 each if you buy 3. (Same link). That is quite a mean offer, since they often do 4 for 3 or 3 for 2, which would make it 14.99 or £13.33 per 10l tub. 3 - Trade discount. Minus 10% for a Trade Account. Fairly easy to get with a couple of bits of paperwork. Should be doable for many self-builders if you meet the requirements. Very reliable minus 10% at Wickes off everything. £15.99 per 10l tub becomes £14.39. 4 - Extra 5% Trade discount on Mondays at present in July and August, due to a relaunch. ie Wait until Monday £14.39 per tub becomes £13.59 per tub. 5 - Pay with reloadable Wickes cash card for a further 10% off. £13.59 per tub becomes £12.24 per tub. These cashcards are an element of many Employee Benefit programmes, and are available for scores of big stores. If not an employee working for someone else you can get one my joining a Westfield Health Cash Plan (only route I know for self-employed), which is a long established - pre-NHS - institution which lets you claim back money you spend on glasses, dentists etc and will usually pay for itself. 6 - Top up the cash card from a Reward Debit Card before you leave home. This will bring it down to about £12.10. I would want to see if I could beat that by leaning on my Johnstone's Decorating Centre. Everything is dead simple once set up. Feel free to ask questions over on the sticky Money Saving thread. Ferdinand Edited July 29, 2017 by Ferdinand 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 The Leyalnd contract stuff is only for obliterating the walls and not any good as a final finish coat . Ok to leave it on the ceilings in every room other than kitchen / bathroom ( where a scrubbable Matt is recommended such as Diamond Matt by Dulux ) as its a very chalky paint used for loading up and rubs off with a wet sponge ridiculously easily. I use it almost as a filler, rubbing down after two heavy coats and then you apply the top / final coat or colour coat over those two 'mist' coats. Works incredibly well this way and covers new plaster amazingly quickly, even on the first coat. Don't be shy with it that's all or it ends up very rough. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lesgrandepotato Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 Hi Ferdinand, that's the stuff. Appreciate we can get it cheaper but we've been trying to spread the spend round a few local suppliers and 17.50 is a decent chunk under 22.50 which seems to be the going rate for a single on the shelf. The other challenge is its a 90mins round trip to wickes, local supplies is a mile away! Nick, big spud towers is fairly monochrome to allow the views to shine through and to give a neutral background to our eclectic furniture... I'm after a simple white finish all over and I like the chalky finish. (It's an old industrial site) good thing is as you say it covers anything and blends in a treat so we'll just touch up on occasion! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 You have been warned . Just don't even think of wiping it clean or it'll be....."hello again plaster"...followed by...."bollocks!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 (edited) 5 hours ago, Lesgrandepotato said: Hi Ferdinand, that's the stuff. Appreciate we can get it cheaper but we've been trying to spread the spend round a few local suppliers and 17.50 is a decent chunk under 22.50 which seems to be the going rate for a single on the shelf. The other challenge is its a 90mins round trip to wickes, local supplies is a mile away! Nick, big spud towers is fairly monochrome to allow the views to shine through and to give a neutral background to our eclectic furniture... I'm after a simple white finish all over and I like the chalky finish. (It's an old industrial site) good thing is as you say it covers anything and blends in a treat so we'll just touch up on occasion! My Wickes is 6 minutes, but an order for that paint over £75 will be delivered free. I would beg to disagree on paint and most commodity products wrt keepingg it local. For a commodity, does that much of the value actually accrue to the local supplier, and by cutting him down by 20-25% have you taken most of his profit? If I have taken money out of the distribiution system or the finance system, then I can redirect where I want to locally - whether paying a blacksmith to make a garden planter, a local artist to make me a stained glass window, to send a young brickie on a training course to learn to build stone walls, or to buy a tent for the local scout troop. Or keep it in my bank account if things are very tight. I like to go as far back up the chain as I can, and if there is a local source making things locally then excellent , and I'll sometimes pay over the odds for it. An example here is wrought iron gates, where we have several 2 or 3 man bands in small industrial units doing it and i like to buy from them. Fence panels and posts are similar - but long-established local suppliers here undercut the normal Wickes prices by 50-80% with a better product anyway, and even saving 25-30% on the Wickes price doesn't come close. All stuff to think about, and horses for courses. Ferdinand Edited July 30, 2017 by Ferdinand Reverse Ferret Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 Don't know if these offerings just seen at Costco are any good, value wise: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 1 hour ago, Onoff said: Don't know if these offerings just seen at Costco are any good, value wise: Looks OK. Wickes 3 for 2 at present takes it from 24 to 16, so trade etc would be similar to Costco. F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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