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Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework


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Back on thread... :)

 

Would I be wimping out if I used a copper push fit or compression elbow instead of soldering elbows on the ends of these pipes coming up thru the PIR?

 

Left hand one is shown just assembled not soldered. The two on the right are closer together and closer to the joist:

 

20180528_132408

 

20180528_135114

 

Thinking spray the wood with water from a plant sprayer then use the soldering mat. Safe? Got good light, an extiguisher and bfo back pack garden sprayer. Maybe lay a wet towel underneath too?

 

It's the PIR I'm primarily worried about.

 

20180528_135140

 

 

 

Edited by Onoff
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2 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Back on thread... :)

 

Would I be wimping out if I used a copper push fit or compression elbow instead of soldering elbows on the ends of these pipes coming up thru the PIR?

 

Left hand one is shown just assembled not soldered. The two on the right are closer together and closer to the joist:

 

20180528_132408

 

20180528_135114

 

Thinking spray the wood with water from a plant sprayer then use the soldering mat. Safe? Got good light, an extiguisher and bfo back pack garden sprayer. Maybe lay a wet towel underneath too?

 

It's the PIR I'm primarily worried about.

 

20180528_135140

 

 

 

Probably a dumb question but why copper ? Why not hep20 ?

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You can't bend and form pushfit neatly and it's bulky, not the prettiest stuff, to have on show. 

And yes, it's an attic, but it's Clive's attic ;)

 

Same philosophy as me I'm afraid, as whatever isn't on show should be to the same standard as what's on show. It's still got to perform, and be reliable. 

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6 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

You can't bend and form pushfit neatly and it's bulky, not the prettiest stuff, to have on show. 

And yes, it's an attic, but it's Clive's attic ;)

 

Same philosophy as me I'm afraid, as whatever isn't on show should be to the same standard as what's on show. It's still got to perform, and be reliable. 

Ah ! Didn’t realise this was visible!

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You really should solder it, otherwise it will p1ss you off.

 

The mat should be fine. If you are worried put another mat behind, but not a wet cloth as you don't want your heatproof mat getting wet.

 

Make sure you aim the heat the elbow (rather than the pipe) and you'll get the two joints soldered pretty quick before things get too hot

 

If the pipe conducts heat and melts a bit of pir I'm sure you will squit a bit of foam down, which you were probably going to do anyway.

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5 minutes ago, pocster said:

Ah ! Didn’t realise this was visible!

 

Visible? It's having  floor over it!

 

35 minutes ago, pocster said:

Probably a dumb question but why copper ? Why not hep20 ?

 

rolRolandRat.jpg.91f7ac9fb48a73f0b583973e962eed56.jpg

 

 

71L65QP82OL._SY450_.jpg.c9a16f39b9e5823387ebc3cd9a382a93.jpg

 

To be fair the loft is FULL of Hep2O and I've not seen any chewed yet but I'm intending gradually replacing it for peace of mind.

 

Going soldered.

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I use an old jacksaw as a heat shield. Or two of them, in conjunction with the mat. Something with a large surface area, and stop it from getting into contact with the wood.

Other than that I just scorch the wood and rub it with a bit of sandpaper afterwards as I'm more concerned about soldering the joint than I am about scorching wood ;). Have a lucodade bottle / hand spray bottle to hand to keep squirting water at things. Not leaving a smouldering fire is always preferential :) 

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3 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Visible? It's having  floor over it!

 

 

rolRolandRat.jpg.91f7ac9fb48a73f0b583973e962eed56.jpg

 

 

71L65QP82OL._SY450_.jpg.c9a16f39b9e5823387ebc3cd9a382a93.jpg

 

To be fair the loft is FULL of Hep2O and I've not seen any chewed yet but I'm intending gradually replacing it for peace of mind.

 

Going soldered.

But work for the sake of work ?

i thought hep20 was the wonder for internal pipe work ...

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10 minutes ago, pocster said:

But work for the sake of work ?

i thought hep20 was the wonder for internal pipe work ...

Not for this chap. Also, not where you have  multiple joints per run as it starts to get expensive quick. 

Plus, if you own a blowlamp and a bending machine then crack on and use copper. It's still my weapon of choice for plant rooms, even when the ongoing / terminal pipe runs are Hepworth. 

 

IMG_7066.thumb.JPG.c359d4fe9a9c626dd1a44d7b8c140b50.JPG

 

Hot and colds all radial in Hep, with no joints. 

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1 minute ago, Nickfromwales said:

Not for this chap. Also, not where you have  multiple joints per run as it starts to get expensive quick. 

Plus, if you own a blowlamp and a bending machine then crack on and use copper. It's still my weapon of choice for plant rooms, even when the ongoing / terminal pipe runs are Hepworth. 

 

IMG_7066.thumb.JPG.c359d4fe9a9c626dd1a44d7b8c140b50.JPG

 

Hot and colds all radial in Hep, with no joints. 

? ‘Tis certainly a labour of love !

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14 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Separates the boys from the men IMO. 

A LOT of plastic heros out there since pushfit was born. 

Oh I’m a ‘ soon too be ‘ plastic hero !

Of course it makes me no more a plumber than you are a gynaecologist.

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The rise and fall thing is going to have to come later if I haven't melted by then!

 

Figured the rainfall head arm needed a bit more than half inch of pb to attach to so I folded up a bit of st/st kick plate:

 

20180528_182511

 

20180528_190253

 

I just want to get water running through and the valves proved. The rainfall arm and head will need to come off again for plastering the ceiling anyway.

 

For now I'll connect in copper but I've a 500mm braided flexi with an elbow coming to allow for the rise and fall thing later.

 

2018-05-28_07-12-26

 

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That's enough for tonight. Something like this. The far lhs one is all soldered in. The lot to the right and to the rainfall head are "loose":

 

2018-05-28_09-24-26

 

The pass over tbh is half an inch off though it clears the cold feed fine. Should have come towards the rainfall head (by half inch):

 

2018-05-28_09-25-04

 

I'm actually going to redo the complete length to the rainfall head as that piece is one of the old "cat damaged" lengths. Our old she cat decided to pee on a box of 15mm copper I had laid along the bottom of a wall. The "green" wire wooled off OK but it's very pitted and even "lined". I could hear it "cracking" as I bent it. Not worth the risk, I'll redo. Has this crack in it too:

 

20180528_212717

 

 

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1 minute ago, Nickfromwales said:

Are the guide and stock of the bending machine clean ? That causes all sorts of problems if not. 

 

Think so. All the bends up to now, with the new copper are fine.

 

 

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6 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Cat pee is quite potent. 

 

... says the man who drinks McEwans Export .....

 

tbh if the cat used it as a toilet for a while then it could well have corroded the pipe significantly and new copper pipe isn’t that thick. 

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Thrifty!

 

IMG_20180603_190332981.thumb.jpg.98fd608f19c1a5687865b18f114c5479.jpg

 

IMG_20180603_190322025.thumb.jpg.f37429f0c313deee4cbb89630fc270f9.jpg

 

One little bit to infill when the foam "wasp's nest" goes off (long story). Then foil (baking) over the plain foam bits, vcl, Aqua Panel...I guess. 

Edited by Onoff
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Because it adds no value. 

 

Its not a VCL as you’re adding a second one anyway. 

 

Its benefit for being a reflective insulation (ie IR reflector) for heat is virtually zero as there is no air gap to the emitter so no reflection. 

 

So it’s not adding anything ..... just time and expense .!

 

 

 

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