Bath Surround / Boxing In, and concealed pipework

[Nickfromwales]

They're only ever going to be at =/< 2 bar so I'd not panic too much about 2 compression joints behind the rad, I've done it hundreds of times converting copper to chrome via compression bends or couplers. 

Ive had more immediate failures with soldered joints than compression tbh. Famous last words  

[Onoff]

Fair play to that eBay seller @Nickfromwales put me onto. I ordered those 16/15mm parts this morning and they've already shipped them. Went for standard delivery. Fingers crossed for tomorrow.

[Onoff]

Scored a new length of chromed 15mm copper for nowt earlier! 

[Onoff]

Back to thinking copper might be better now. This almost fits and I reckon once I add the thickness of the tile I might get away with it.....

 

 

 

 

 

[PeterW]

4 hours ago, Onoff said:

Scored a new length of chromed 15mm copper for nowt earlier! 

 

Don't forget chromed copper and pushfit connections are a marriage made in hell....

[CC45]

Thinner insulation just behind the pipe & drill hole further back?

 

CC

[Onoff]

7 hours ago, PeterW said:

 

Don't forget chromed copper and pushfit connections are a marriage made in hell....

I've never heard that before. Cheers. Never used chromed copper tbh...

[Onoff]

7 hours ago, CC45 said:

Thinner insulation just behind the pipe & drill hole further back?

 

CC

Could do. Was trying to get as much on that wall, well, 50mm min tapering to about 100mm the other end of the wall at the wet room corner. The bottom of this cavity wall has so much debris in you could call it rubble filled/solid!

 

Have a look on page 4 of this thread, I'm a past master at veeing out insulation to take pipes!

 

Not too worried about having chrome pipes as chrome effect covers are available.

 

http://m.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=Chrome+pipe+covers&isNewKw=1&isRefine=true&mfs=GOCLK&acimp=0&_trksid=p2056088.m2428.l1313.TR3.TRC1.Xchrome+pipe+covers&sqp=chrome+pipe+covers

Edited November 12, 2016 by Onoff

[Onoff]

Tbh I really should get the towel rad so I can set these pipes in for good and gauge the finished height. I'll likely need to add additional battens too.

[PeterW]

3 hours ago, Onoff said:

I've never heard that before. Cheers. Never used chromed copper tbh...

 

So chrome is much harder than copper and the retaining "teeth" in most push fits can't bite into it to retain the pipe correctly. Only real choice is clean it off with emery paper but watch you don't create too rough a surface. 

[Nickfromwales]

12 hours ago, PeterW said:

 

Don't forget chromed copper and pushfit connections are a marriage made in hell....

I foooishly assumed that was a given, so yes, NEVER put chrome pipe into ANY speedfit fitting. . 

Good shout Peter . 

[Onoff]

Just ordered the rad:

 

http://www.britishbathroomcompany.co.uk/phoenix-zonta-600-x-1000-polished-ss-radiator-ra320

 

Will order the valves Nick said too.

[Onoff]

A bit of gap filling with some 50mm EPS. Only 200mm deep until it hits the first ties. A line of low expansion foam one side then popped it down the cavity and properly dosed the side between the EPS and outer leaf. That should fill the gap nicely.

 

 

I'm going to infill atop the line of blocks with strong mortar levelled to the stud batten. I'll then trim the foam flush. Should give me a decent base to fix/stick my DPM all round the reveal. I WILL banish these draughts!

 

BUT....

 

I knew I had to revisit the batten fixings under the window but where everything has dried out they're as loose as the video below shows:

 

 

The concrete screws used to affix the battens haven't moved. The solution:

 

 

Edited November 12, 2016 by Onoff

[Onoff]

Multisolve.....seriously what makes it "magic"? Spray on and it smells / feels greasy then it's just.....GONE!

 

I've been cleaning old bits of DPM with it and sticking to the reveals. Like s*** to a blanket!

 

 

 

 

 

[Onoff]

And back to the woodwork:

 

 

The "removable" half idea:

 

 

 

[Nickfromwales]

In fairness, that's looking like one well engineered, meticulously executed bathroom. .

Très bein, Rodney.  

[Onoff]

47 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

In fairness, that's looking like one well engineered, meticulously executed bathroom. .

Très bein, Rodney.  

 

Ta. Losing it a bit with the plasterboard and warped timbers. I reckon I'm at about +/-2mm tolerance wise to the CAD drawing it's all based on.

[Nickfromwales]

+/- 2mm worrying you ?!? 

Given the shape of the room at the start you should be patting yourself on the back mate  

[Onoff]

Hmm...to go square or not?

 

Got the insulated plasterboard on the sill. Sikaflex round all 4 edges then a good zig zag of low expansion foam in the middle. All level and weighted down:

 

BUT...doing the sides of the reveal and the piece on the rhs kicks in by about 8mm at the back. Tbh it's nice and in line with the upvc frame. I can't see it'll mean anything else other than cutting a tile stop the sill.

 

 

If I try and bring it out to the line I'll have a big hollow at the back of the insulated plasterboard. I'm looking for a good contact area as I'm foaming it to the blue DPM  that lines the reveal.

 

Any thoughts?

[Onoff]

Went with my gut! Scuffed the DPM with 60 grit paper then cleaned with Multi Solve. Sikaflex round the edges then Soudal low exp. foam in the middle and a few packs. (Second side was neater). Held the board on with a few strategically placed bricks and wedges.

 

 

Happy with the "panel gaps", i.e the board line in relation to the UPVC lines:

 

 

 

 

[Nickfromwales]

They being skimmed or tiled?

[Onoff]

33 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

They being skimmed or tiled?

 

Tiled.....

 

[Nickfromwales]

That's mighty close to the glazing bead, have you checked it for a tile + adhesive?

[Onoff]

7 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

That's mighty close to the glazing bead, have you checked it for a tile + adhesive?

 

Put bluntly, no!

 

EDIT: Measured with bleary eyes this morning and it's 9-10mm from the face of the plaster board to the glazing bead line. All I can do I guess is set the trims round the reveal so I get a tapered bed of adhesive down to "nothing" at the back with 8mm tiles.

 

You know how you learnt (learning?) me plumbing.....well wait for the numpty tiling questions!

 

BUT...no draughts! So worth the hassle.

Edited November 17, 2016 by Onoff

[Nickfromwales]

Use sika to bond the tiles on the reveal so you just end up with the thickness of the tile against the window. The sika can be fag paper thin and still hold like a chav with a winning scratch card.