Prior to plasterers coming

[James94]

Hi all,

first fix is almost done, just a few things that are bothering me prior to plasterers coming

I’m not sure how best to finish off a few things,

first of all is there certain regulations on how to finish this section off see pic?

[ProDave]

Cables are supposed to be supported, not just hanging, using metal cable clips above an exit route to stop cables hanging down in the event of a fire.

 

Plasterer will expect cables and back boxes in the wall if plastering direct to blocks.

 

Some pipe insulation would be good and sound insulation between floors if your BC demands it or you want it.

[James94]

@ProDave

thanks for your reply,

I know the plumber has a couple more odd days so I’ll make sure the pipe insulation is done.

not sure why we left. Cable’s  hanging and not fixed in boxes, I think it might of been at the time I wasn’t exactly sure if kitchen appliances positions and how many. Electrician won’t be back until second fix now so I’ll make sure there in position and fixed prior to plasterers.

plasterers have agreed to sound insulate in their price.

How can I finish above block wall where it finishes low to first floor, are there regulations to comply with?

 

 

 

[PeterW]

No issue with the gap where the soil goes through but it needs supporting as does that shower waste, plus there are no ceiling noggins at the edges which will need adding. 

[James94]

@PeterW

Thanks for the response,

the toilet waste has a bracket fixing to the joist are you suggesting I need to add more of a support? I’ll look at the shower waste I’m sure there are some hidden supports not seen in the pic.

regarding ceiling noggins, I’m not sure what you mean, there are some under kaberdeck do I require more and if so could you show what I need to add.

the gap a the top of the wall is not just at the soil vent pipe it’s all the way along wall can I leave wall short of flooring?

 

 

[PeterW]

Where the red arrow is there should be something supporting the joint / pipe for the soil stack as it comes through the floor as that will twist in time. I’d also want the shower waste clipped every 500mm to stop sagging. 
 

noggins should be fitted where the purple line is - either Z clips or screwed to the joists in line with the lower edge of the joists as otherwise there is nothing to tack the ceiling boards to. 

 

[James94]

@PeterW. @ProDave

Spoke to plasterer and he’s Said he has seen noggings on some of his jobs but not to many and as I’m having 15mm plasterboard on ceilings that it won’t need it.

if I had known earlier I may of had time but left it a little late now, all other bits I’ll get plumber to look at.

Regards. James

[Gone West]

3 minutes ago, James94 said:

Spoke to plasterer and he’s Said he has seen noggings on some of his jobs but not to many and as I’m having 15mm plasterboard on ceilings that it won’t need it.

I'm pretty sure you'll get cracks even with 15mm plasterboard.

[Conor]

I stuffed gaps above ceiling level with mineral wool.

[Carrerahill]

On 12/06/2022 at 17:12, James94 said:

Hi all,

first fix is almost done, just a few things that are bothering me prior to plasterers coming

I’m not sure how best to finish off a few things,

first of all is there certain regulations on how to finish this section off see pic?

Get your plumber and electrician back for starters and get that mess sorted! 

 

I'd ask your plasterer to put some access hatches in for when those unsupported and stressed push fit Tee joints are so when they blow off you can get in and fix it quickly. 

[James94]

@Gone West

not sure if I’ve got enough time to add noggins all round, if ceiling goes up first won’t the wall push up and take some of  the ceiling weight? Or will I still end up with cracks?

[James94]

18 minutes ago, Carrerahill said:

Get your plumber and electrician back for starters and get that mess sorted! 

 

I'd ask your plasterer to put some access hatches in for when those unsupported and stressed push fit Tee joints are so when they blow off you can get in and fix it quickly. 

It is a bit of a mess never really thought about it as it won’t be seen. Do you think these joints will cause issues in the future? I’m sure he won’t do owt about them as it would be nearly all his fittings.
 

[Gone West]

13 hours ago, James94 said:

@Gone West

not sure if I’ve got enough time to add noggins all round, if ceiling goes up first won’t the wall push up and take some of  the ceiling weight? Or will I still end up with cracks?

Our plasterer wanted noggins around the edge, we used 12mm board. He said it would crack without them. I can't see 15mm board, which is thick for a ceiling, being any different.

[joe90]

I prefer noggins all round but ask the plasterer to use scrim around the edges to tie wall to ceiling plaster if you don’t have time!

[dpmiller]

why would they *not* use scrim @joe90?

[joe90]

Just now, dpmiller said:

why would they *not* use scrim @joe90?

Just saying as I have seen it done (not by my plasterer) 🤯

[James94]

Hope they intend to use scrim on all connections, thought that was just the normal. I’m sure there better than that but I’ll keep my eye on them.

[James94]

Got another question,

I can't seem to get my head round this wiring issue, I have the first fix cables in place but I'm not sure how the electrician plans to power my  12v led lighting. I plan to have all  drivers for the low volt lights in an accessible place, I was thinking of on top of wardrobes. how will he get the wire from the PIR'S to the drivers and back in wall to lights ? Is it just the case of pulling extra cable through a hole in wall or is there another way as I don't think there is any extra length cables for it and he isn't due back till second fix.

 Hope this makes sense.

Regards  Scezy

 

[Temp]

I think most people hide the transformer away near the light fitting in the ceiling void.

 

I wonder if anyone makes a ventilated in wall box for LED  transformers?

[Temp]

I was wondering if something like this existed for a transformer. Its a ventilated single front for a pattress box intended for sensors. 

https://www.rapidonline.com/CamdenBoss-CBRS01VWH-Sensor-Enclosure-Size-1-Vented-White-30-6985?IncVat=1&utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=surfaces across google&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzLCVBhD3ARIsAPKYTcSGkEkqBo7ZWOFKSjfzHPJMXqKJaaYxePzqGikSE7AHWsOljSpE8P0aAhW1EALw_wcB

 

 

[James94]

@Temp

thanks for the reply, was hoping to have them all in certain areas with easy access. I’m not sure if they will fit in the box you have linked and I don’t know if they would fit in the service cavity or even fit in the holes made for the PIR’s.

Do you think it’s possible to have them on a shelf or wardrobe and if so how would it wire up?

Regards  James

[Temp]

I know people put them on top of kitchen cabinets and the like so a wardrobe is probably OK. 

 

 

[James94]

@Temp @ProDave

What i'm not sure about is I have the live feed to the PIR sensor in place bur there is no wire back to the driver so this is something i'm going to have to run in as electrician wont be back in time. I could just add the cable from PIR to feed the lights/led strips with the driver in the wall somewhere, but i will not have access to them. is there a correct way to bring cables out of wall to drivers and back in to the lights?

 

[Temp]

Without knowing what the electrician intended I think I would run the following (twin and earth)...

 

One from PIR to the top of the wardrobe (where you planned to put the driver). 

One from wardrobe/driver to the lamp.

One from PIR to a switch to control the PIR.

 

In each case leave several feet of wire (2ft?) coming out of the wall.

 

If the electrician thinks he can hide the transformer somewhere in the wall behind the wardrobe or in the ceiling let him do that. Normally you want transformers accessible. It's probably a regulation as well. 

 

Edited June 19, 2022 by Temp