1 minute ago, SimonD said:

used to prep and cook 3 courses for up to 120 people in a small galley kitchen on a steam boat on one of the large lakes in Sweden

(expletive deleted)ing hard work some days ain't it.

15 minutes ago, nod said:

When demand goes up 

The price go up 

We are screwed either way

 

2 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

Not always as it is to do with marginal costs.

 

The real problem, especially with energy and food prices right now is not supply and demand. It's a convenient distraction and spouted to hide the reality of the game. With so much of what we consume, prices and supply are controlled by exchanges and investment vehicles (like those managed by hedge funds and investment banks) - this is where the real problem lies as they're going to milking it together with the oil and gas producers whos fixed costs have not increased.

13 hours ago, coconutsaregood said:

more expensive insulant (not choosing sticky beads)

 

What are you planning on using?

 

 

13 hours ago, coconutsaregood said:

... I was hoping to get a pointer as to the official politics behind the change.

 

This is perhaps a bit too generalised for you but,  its a start. Its the term '....official politics... ' that confuses a bit. 

 

7 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

(expletive deleted)ing hard work some days ain't it.

 

Oh yeah, but I did love it.

7 minutes ago, SimonD said:

prices and supply are controlled by exchanges and investment vehicles (like those managed by hedge funds and investment banks) - this is where the real problem lies as they're going to milking it together with the oil and gas producers whos fixed costs have not increased

While I have a distrust of corporate banking (actually more a lack of understanding) they do take a risk. That risk has to be priced in.

 

7 minutes ago, SimonD said:

fixed costs have not increased.

Probably not significantly, but take the energy producers who have invested in Russian energy, and are now pulling out of Russia. They are loosing billions.

But that is also why I don't have a problem with the French paying to build a power station on the UK mainland. Not as if they can take it away.

Edited May 24, 20224 yr by SteamyTea

2 hours ago, ProDave said:

£1000 over 32 years id £31.25 per year.  So are you saying if you spend an extra £1000 on insulation you don't expect it to save you £32 per year?

 

I have a theory about houses, that one day, buyers will actually wake up to the EPC rating and realise a modern house with an EPC A will cost a lot less to run and be a lot more comfortable than a Victorian pile with an EPC G, and they might actually pay a higher price for the better house.

 

Clearly if you think the cost of insulation is too high, then the cost of energy is still too low.

the £1000 is the difference between the two levels of insulation. If I get my application in before cut-off date, then the project investment appraisal cost terms is a £1000 less over the 32-year period. This is the knock-on effect of more insulation up front. I must wait longer in my grave to recoup that £1000. The breakeven is many more decades away, assuming an average fuel price, which I know is complete conjecture. The penny is finally dropping, yes, the price of gas is still low for the level of insulation we the house extenders are now asked to put in.

46 minutes ago, Iceverge said:

 

What are you planning on using?

 

 

the cheapest thermal insulation with a tolerance to rain penetration at the time of ordering. Currently it is treated glass wool in batt form or blown-in complete fill (fingers crossed the wider cavity stops the crossover of rain moisture).

53 minutes ago, ToughButterCup said:

 

This is perhaps a bit too generalised for you but,  its a start. Its the term '....official politics... ' that confuses a bit. 

 

the government are smart at shouting out about giving those on benefits handouts but what portion of deprived "get-it" and do it?

35 minutes ago, coconutsaregood said:

the cheapest thermal insulation with a tolerance to rain penetration at the time of ordering. Currently it is treated glass wool in batt form or blown-in complete fill (fingers crossed the wider cavity stops the crossover of rain moisture).

This is exactly what I used, full fill in a brick/block cavity, BBA certificate, and I know damp does not migrate across it (damp penetration of brickwork, but not across insulation after building) also it’s not a petro chemical product which I prefer not to use (but had to under the concrete floor as rockwall would collapse 😱.)

4 hours ago, coconutsaregood said:

... but what portion of deprived "get-it" and do it?

 

here's a reasonably reliable source of data for the year 2019 -2020. I've had a quick look and there is  some surprising  data ....   

 

(eg) only 77% of pension credit uptake... those who need it most, I suspect.

Edited May 24, 20224 yr by ToughButterCup

5 hours ago, coconutsaregood said:

the cheapest thermal insulation with a tolerance to rain penetration at the time of ordering. Currently it is treated glass wool in batt form or blown-in complete fill (fingers crossed the wider cavity stops the crossover of rain moisture).

 

The beads and batts are the best for rain AFAIK.  Beads are pretty much standard fit here in Ireland for new builds. Mostly 200mm cavities. I've not heard any horror stories. 

 

19 hours ago, ProDave said:

less than £2000 extra per house. 

But that means £2,000 less per unit to the original landowner, who I think is actually behind most such decisions.

13 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

But that means £2,000 less per unit to the original landowner

Another way to look at it is how much it costs to borrow.

At 10%pa, the interest is £200 a year. 55p a day.

But we currently have a bank rate of 1%. Not had a mortgage for over 20 years, but the rate is probably 3%.

 

1 hour ago, Iceverge said:

Beads are pretty much standard fit here in Ireland for new builds. Mostly 200mm cavities

 

Really?  What do they use for wall ties and lintels?  Must be a wider bucket on the digger as well.

13 hours ago, ProDave said:

£1000 over 32 years id £31.25 per year.  So are you saying if you spend an extra £1000 on insulation you don't expect it to save you £32 per year?

 

I have a theory about houses, that one day, buyers will actually wake up to the EPC rating and realise a modern house with an EPC A will cost a lot less to run and be a lot more comfortable than a Victorian pile with an EPC G, and they might actually pay a higher price for the better house.

 

Clearly if you think the cost of insulation is too high, then the cost of energy is still too low.

 

Wishful thinking when you consider that 99% of houses with a decent EPC will be hideous boxes crammed on in estates. And still poorly built.

 

If you want to live in something "nice" its likely to be old. In circa 6 years of looking at potential houses for my final move, ive not seen a single "newer" house that ticked most of the boxes. 

 

The only viable alternative is to build one. Which of course is why we are here.

10 hours ago, joe90 said:

This is exactly what I used, full fill in a brick/block cavity, BBA certificate, and I know damp does not migrate across it (damp penetration of brickwork, but not across insulation after building) also it’s not a petro chemical product which I prefer not to use (but had to under the concrete floor as rockwall would collapse 😱.)

 

Can i ask what you used?

5 hours ago, Mr Punter said:

 

Really?  What do they use for wall ties and lintels?  Must be a wider bucket on the digger as well.

 

Stainless steel wall tiles. Off the shelf in most BMs here.

 

Seperate precast concrete lintels or steel beams depending on span. Catnics are relatively unusual.

 

Typically a 1050mm foundation. 42" bucket or a 3ft with a bit of extra wiggling. 

9 hours ago, Roger440 said:

 

Can i ask what you used?

Gosh can’t remember but rockwall insulation batts 100mm x2 staggered. My builder was not sure about full fill but they had a BBA certificate for this. After the build was finished the west wall got soaked through winter rains and when I core drilled fir the ASHP pipes I found the insulation had not absorbed the wet at all even though the bricks were soaked. I have since treated the bricks just in case.

7 hours ago, Iceverge said:

 

Stainless steel wall tiles. Off the shelf in most BMs here.

 

Seperate precast concrete lintels or steel beams depending on span. Catnics are relatively unusual.

 

Typically a 1050mm foundation. 42" bucket or a 3ft with a bit of extra wiggling. 

Yes longer ties off the shelf, I used concrete internal skin lintels and brick arches for the outer, no thermal bridging.

my founds were dug with a standard bucket but driver widened them as required to non standard width.

Just now, joe90 said:

my founds were dug with a standard bucket but driver widened them as required to non standard width.

Is it block and beam your foundation?

 

Just now, SteamyTea said:

Is it block and beam your foundation?

 

No, standard strip founds.

2 minutes ago, joe90 said:

No, standard strip founds.

Right.

Don't suppose you have the thermal bridging mitigation details to hand.

Here is a pic from the internet that I followed but, the internal DPC was lowered to floor level as my builder says if it’s still that high it causes a slip plane above the skirting, to mitigate this he inserted a second DPC on the outside skin 15pmm above ground level. The whole house is surrounded by a French drain anyway because of the high water table 

15 hours ago, Iceverge said:

 

The beads and batts are the best for rain AFAIK.  Beads are pretty much standard fit here in Ireland for new builds. Mostly 200mm cavities. I've not heard any horror stories. 

 

+1 to this - and blown fibre has a nasty habit of settling over time if not done correctly. I would only use beads or batts but at a significant thickness