richo106 Posted April 29, 2022 Share Posted April 29, 2022 Hi all We are putting a new concrete floor in our existing bungalow, the existing bungalow has a suspended joist/floorboard floor currently. The new floor make up is: 200mm Type 1 MOT 50mm Sand Blinding 150mm Concrete slab 200mm PIR insulation 50mm Screed So total depth around 650mm Due the slight incline in our land, one end of the bungalow is around 400mm deep below the floor but the other end is 800mm To make up the short fall of the depth can we simply add more MOT to build up the layer flat? so it leaves 450mm depth up to the top of the blues? All advice and information greatly appreciated Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted April 29, 2022 Share Posted April 29, 2022 (edited) 17 minutes ago, richo106 said: Hi all We are putting a new concrete floor in our existing bungalow, the existing bungalow has a suspended joist/floorboard floor currently. The new floor make up is: 200mm Type 1 MOT 50mm Sand Blinding 150mm Concrete slab 200mm PIR insulation 50mm Screed So total depth around 650mm Due the slight incline in our land, one end of the bungalow is around 400mm deep below the floor but the other end is 800mm To make up the short fall of the depth can we simply add more MOT to build up the layer flat? so it leaves 450mm depth up to the top of the blues? All advice and information greatly appreciated Thanks Before you continue, what are the reasons for this and have you assessed the impact on under house ventilation etc.? I am not suggesting you should not do this, but I am suggesting you need to take into consideration quite a number of things. Even if it is cross air ducting for vent to other parts, ducts for services that may or may not go in in the future. You don't mention a DPM in your make up. The answer is yes you can add more hardcore, lay it in 100-150mm layers and compact, but we aware of using a compactor inside a house as the alterations to ground conditions can damage founds and walls but at 200-400mm of hardcore you do need to compact it. Edited April 29, 2022 by Carrerahill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayc89 Posted April 29, 2022 Share Posted April 29, 2022 Build up hardcore in layers of ~ 100mm. Scrap the sand blinding for a layer of EPS and given you have the depth, I'd use EPS rather than PIR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richo106 Posted April 29, 2022 Author Share Posted April 29, 2022 Sorry yes there is going to be two DPM layers. What is the benefit of EPS over PIR? I am guessing cost. How much EPS would I need to match 200mm PIR, is there anywhere I could calculate this? Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conor Posted April 29, 2022 Share Posted April 29, 2022 10 minutes ago, richo106 said: Sorry yes there is going to be two DPM layers. What is the benefit of EPS over PIR? I am guessing cost. How much EPS would I need to match 200mm PIR, is there anywhere I could calculate this? Thanks again It's just short of double, depending of its white or grey EPS, and density. It's about 1/4 to 1/3 price of PIR so wil always work out cheaper, and you'll save on hardcore and labour. You'll want 300-400mm of EPS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richo106 Posted April 29, 2022 Author Share Posted April 29, 2022 Thanks for this Conor, I have just been look at insulation and prices (off the internet) etc... My ground floor area is 120m2 so its either 42 sheets single layer or 84 sheets double layer. These are my findings: PIR 100mm * 2 (GA4100) - 84 sheets - £45.98 a sheet - Total: £3862.32 200mm * 1 (XR4200) - 42 sheets - £106.19 a sheet - Total: £4460 EPS - White - Jablite Jabfloor 70 300mm * 1 - 42 sheets - £66.01 a sheet - Total: £2772.42 200mm * 2 - 84 sheets - £44 a sheet - Total: £3696.56 EPS - Grey - Jablite Jabfloor 70 High Performance 300mm * 1 - 42 sheets - £108.50 a sheet - Total: £4557 200mm * 2 - 84 sheets - £72.33 a sheet - Total: £6076 I have done this and i am still non the wiser which way to go, suppose it depends how much needs to dug up below the floor or added to etc As always would welcome any advice/information on this from people with more experience than me is this Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chanmenie Posted April 29, 2022 Share Posted April 29, 2022 Why a slab and a screed ? That’s like doing it twice put the slab on top of the insulation and use it as the floor, save the cost of the screed and less to dig out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayc89 Posted April 29, 2022 Share Posted April 29, 2022 9 minutes ago, Chanmenie said: Why a slab and a screed ? That’s like doing it twice put the slab on top of the insulation and use it as the floor, save the cost of the screed and less to dig out That's what we plan to do for the extension. I did wonder why so many decide to use a screed too. It was spec'd in our renovation and we blindly went along with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richo106 Posted April 29, 2022 Author Share Posted April 29, 2022 I just thought slab insulation then screed for UFH was a standard practice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chanmenie Posted April 30, 2022 Share Posted April 30, 2022 I’m putting the UFH pipes on top of the insulation so they are in the slab, lots on here have done that or tied the UFH pipes to the mesh in the middle of the slab. no need for screed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayc89 Posted April 30, 2022 Share Posted April 30, 2022 21 minutes ago, Chanmenie said: I’m putting the UFH pipes on top of the insulation so they are in the slab, lots on here have done that or tied the UFH pipes to the mesh in the middle of the slab. no need for screed Is there any difference in thermal conductivity between slab and screed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chanmenie Posted April 30, 2022 Share Posted April 30, 2022 Hopefully someone more knowledgable than I will be along to answer that, but I can’t see there would be much difference, other than a 50 or 75mm screed will heat up much quicker but will also cool down much quicker. Because I’m using an ASHP which are low temp low flow the slab gives more thermal mass which reduces fluctuations once heated up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jenni Posted April 30, 2022 Share Posted April 30, 2022 21 hours ago, richo106 said: So total depth around 650mm Are your existing foundations deep enough already to allow you to take this much out right next to them? Our building control limited how deep we could go, said if existing foundations were exposed we'd have to underpin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted April 30, 2022 Share Posted April 30, 2022 18 hours ago, Chanmenie said: Why a slab and a screed ? That’s like doing it twice That is 2 of us think that then. I cant see what the bottom slab is meant to be doing other than provide a prepared and clean surface. So why 150mm? I am in the middle of a 'discussion' on this with our Engineer (I am not on the Scottish register). He is insisting on A193 mesh s well, and resisting my proposal to use fibre mesh for crack control (which is still over the top but not costing a lot) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted April 30, 2022 Share Posted April 30, 2022 Other points arising, and forgive me repeating some answers. PIR is twice the price and twice as good, so in this case use PIR for better insulation or less excavation. 50 screed is not enough. It will vary from 40 to 60 and is likely to break. Exposing the walls and foundations should not be an issue for a 20thC building but needs an Engineer's say-so not BCO. If the house is old with very shallow footings then it is an issue however. Do it gently. If necessary do it in short runs, say 1m and infill with the stone and concrete as you go. Lots of bitty work but resolves that issue if necessary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chanmenie Posted April 30, 2022 Share Posted April 30, 2022 2 hours ago, saveasteading said: That is 2 of us think that then. It would come to a lot more than 2 If the other guys responded there have been a few threads on discussing UFH pipes in the slab Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted April 30, 2022 Share Posted April 30, 2022 band b floor so slightly different but - dpm, 200mm recticel, dpm and 100mm concrete, ufh pipes on top of 2nd dpm. no heat through it yet though, possibly this year..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted April 30, 2022 Share Posted April 30, 2022 And what under the PIR? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted April 30, 2022 Share Posted April 30, 2022 4 hours ago, saveasteading said: f necessary do it in short runs, say 1m and infill with the stone and concrete as you go I was very unclear here. I meant expose the wall just locally for a metre, perhaps 600 wide digging-out, then backfilling with the new construction, and the existing wall strength will not be compromised. Then do the middle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperJohnG Posted April 30, 2022 Share Posted April 30, 2022 I have UFH pipes in my slab which is a kore insulated foundation. 250mm thick in the ring beam and 150mm everywhere else. Made perfect sense to me to put it in the slab as it cuts out so many steps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richo106 Posted May 2, 2022 Author Share Posted May 2, 2022 On 30/04/2022 at 15:07, saveasteading said: Other points arising, and forgive me repeating some answers. PIR is twice the price and twice as good, so in this case use PIR for better insulation or less excavation. 50 screed is not enough. It will vary from 40 to 60 and is likely to break. Exposing the walls and foundations should not be an issue for a 20thC building but needs an Engineer's say-so not BCO. If the house is old with very shallow footings then it is an issue however. Do it gently. If necessary do it in short runs, say 1m and infill with the stone and concrete as you go. Lots of bitty work but resolves that issue if necessary Regarding the concrete slab thickness that was just specified by structural engineer, i was surprised they said 150mm The screed will liquid pumped screed is 50mm still too thin? Yes I am there is not much need to dig close to the existing walls, however the foundations are quite deep..9 bricks and 8in concrete base Another concern is that as the screed will only be 50mm over 200mm of PIR will this feel bouncy at all or will it feel solid? Planning to tile to whole ground potentially Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 16 minutes ago, richo106 said: Regarding the concrete slab thickness It won't be much less however good the ground is, and I can't comment without a lot more information, so I think accept this. I have argued myself for a thinner slab, but there is little chance of the BCO accepting it without research that would cost more than the saving.* The screed will be dead flat on top (well +/- a few mm). Getting the PIR dead level is less likely. 50mm seems thin to me, and I think you must take the advice of the installers/suppliers. Your Engineer will advise on stability, and I expect will not be concerned. Again , circumstances re important. No it will not feel bouncy. Although thin, the screed is hard and spreads your load over a bigger area of the PIR. Thicker screed spreads it a lot further. The PIR is surprisingly strong ...try putting a board on it and see if it moves when stood/ jumped on. * I am currently pressing to substitute fibre crack reinforcement for the specified steel mesh, which will save a lot of money...but there is resistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayc89 Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 Our refurb was 65m2. We have 100mm C35 conc, 100mm PIR (you could argue this isn't enough but we were battling against Victorian foundations so increasing the depth became the limiting factor) and 60mm liquid screed. It's been down nearly a year now and so far so good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 Why not go: MOT Sand Insulation Structural Liquid concrete 65-75mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 7 hours ago, bassanclan said: Why not go: MOT Sand Insulation Structural Liquid concrete 65-75mm Because it is 'not normally done'. No other reason I can see. If the ground might heave (clay) the perhaps concrete is needed. 7 hours ago, jayc89 said: We have 100mm C35 conc That is very strong concrete: any reason? Did this have reinforcement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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