Measured door incorrectly -Advice needed on where I should chop off to make it fit!

[Danv]

So I'm in the 'final' stages of a suspended timber outbuilding that I plan on insulating and having double glazed window + door. However I realised I built without room to accommodate a sill. My measurement was 5mm off aswell, so sill or no sill it needs tweaking!

I basically need to adapt what I have and am not sure on what the best location to 'chop it' off is. Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated. I would obviously like to impact the frame/structure/stability as little as possible!

 

I see my 2 options are either removing the top door frame beam and have the door sitting directly to the frame header beam (plus then taking a few mm from the bottom). Or taking all the excess out from the bottom frame. Open to any ideas here!

 

I should add that the base has c24 150x47 (x2) for extra support:

 

Edited April 21, 2022 by Danv
Making title clearer

[PeterW]

5mm you could plane the door. 

[Danv]

43 minutes ago, PeterW said:

5mm you could plane the door. 

Thanks @PeterW!

The door is uPVC, I hadn't considered that! Is that possible on a uPVC?

 

I also realise I didn't explain how much i needed in total to take off.... I need to accommodate about 50mm!

Edited April 21, 2022 by Danv

[Mr Punter]

I don't think you will easily chop down a PVC door without hitting metal reinforcement but I guess you could ask the manufacturer?

 

If the workshop is outside building regs you can do what you like.  Could you lose the lintel at the top and put in some metal angle to support the rafter?

 

[HughF]

29 minutes ago, Danv said:

Thanks @PeterW!

The door is uPVC, I hadn't considered that! Is that possible on a uPVC?

 

I also realise I didn't explain how much i needed in total to take off.... I need to accommodate about 50mm!

You should just about be able to hack 25mm off the top and bottom of a standard upvc 70mm profile door with a tracksaw... it'll be touch and go though...

[Russell griffiths]

I’ve got the electric plane on many a upvc frame, makes lovely sawdust. 

[SteamyTea]

Do you need the door handle heights to match?

[Danv]

On 22/04/2022 at 11:11, SteamyTea said:

Do you need the door handle heights to match?

Sorry not sure what you mean @SteamyTea

 

The door was second hand and only £25... so I am tempted to take a chunk off the top and bottom. I may still need to take some out elsewhere, my gut is saying taking off the top bar as that is easier, but please any thoughts if i had to take some of the wood out are very much welcomed!

 

[Danv]

On 21/04/2022 at 16:50, Mr Punter said:

I don't think you will easily chop down a PVC door without hitting metal reinforcement but I guess you could ask the manufacturer?

 

If the workshop is outside building regs you can do what you like.  Could you lose the lintel at the top and put in some metal angle to support the rafter?

 

Thank you @Mr Punter, I may take your advice here. It's outside and under 2.5m so no planning required.

[AliG]

Looking at the picture would the easiest thing to do, not be to take it out of the frame at the bottom and add extra timber to the back of the frame to strengthen it.

 

Edit -

 

I just realised that if you take a lot off the bottom of the frame then the door is going to open below floor level. This may not matter as I am guessing there is a step up into the building, but maybe needs to be considered.

 

Can you add another layer to the top frame of the building below the rafters, then cut out the existing one at the top of the door? This should have no structural impact, but may be extra work depending on where you are at the moment.

 

[MikeGrahamT21]

How about leave the door as is, no sill, and instead use something like this under it: https://ewistore.co.uk/shop/external-wall-insulation/verge-trim-upstand-2-5m-110mm/

 

As long as its sealed correctly in the right places it should work. There will be a thermal bridge of course, but if its an outbuilding it shouldn't cause you issues.

[ETC]

[ETC]

@Danv