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Meeting architect re construction drawings tomorrow, any tips?


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So thinking about future planning re sockets eg. change of layout of rooms etc. Cat 6,7 or 8? Going to ask for that anti rat thing in the pipe (stops them coming into your loo). Would be grateful for any general thoughts /tips or even warnings?

Edited by CalvinHobbes
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We need a tighter brief so we can help you more.

 

What stage is the general design? Agreed, still in process, fixed?

Has there been an M+E design? Has it been signed off?

Has any of your M+E got a requirement for data: if so what's the specification for that? Will WiFi be 'enough'

All Quintec light switches  (other systems are available) or hard wired?

 

KeepItSimple

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Here's my golden rule of sockets (which I managed to forget myself).

 

Any wall that is bounded by a door or full size window etc should have a pair of 13A sockets and a Cat6 connection.

 

Where you expect a higher concentration of equipment (such as TVs & consoles, or PCs and printers) double or triple up.

 

Sods law states that just where you want to put something, the nearest socket is on the opposite wall - I have this problem with our office printer it can only go against the one wall that has no cat6 and the supplied wifi module is unreliable.

 

Think also about using mobile appliances like vacuum cleaners etc and make sure you have enough hall sockets so you're not stretching the cable to it's max all the time. Sockets in hall cupboards are also useful for charging battery appliances like cleaners, or drills, garden tools etc.

 

We recently upgraded to use the BT wifi discs and they work well (other access points are available) however they work best when connected to a wired cat6 and not trying to reach the router via WiFi themselves - these ones also need adjacent 13A power supply but there are PoE alternatives.

 

I thought we had more than enough 13A sockets during the build but am still reliant on multi gang extension leads here and there to get what we need.

 

Big fan also of switched 5a lamp sockets, especially with a switch by the door.

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Just now, Bitpipe said:

Here's my golden rule of sockets (which I managed to forget myself).

 

Any wall that is bounded by a door or full size window etc should have a pair of 13A sockets and a Cat6 connection to avoid trailing cables.

 

Where you expect a higher concentration of equipment (such as TVs & consoles, or PCs and printers) double or triple up.

 

Sods law states that just where you want to put something, the nearest power / data socket is on the next wall with a door in the way - I have this problem with our office printer it can only go against the one wall that has no cat6 and the supplied wifi module is unreliable.

 

Think also about using mobile appliances like vacuum cleaners etc and make sure you have enough hall sockets so you're not stretching the cable to it's max all the time. Sockets in hall cupboards are also useful for charging battery appliances like cleaners, or drills, garden tools etc.

 

We recently upgraded to use the BT wifi discs and they work well (other access points are available) however they work best when connected to a wired cat6 and not trying to reach the router via WiFi themselves - these ones also need adjacent 13A power supply but there are PoE alternatives.

 

I thought we had more than enough 13A sockets during the build but am still reliant on multi gang extension leads here and there to get what we need.

 

Big fan also of switched 5a lamp sockets, especially with a switch by the door.

 

Edited by Bitpipe
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We put network points in all the rooms but so far only used one... Everything else is on the mesh WiFi network.

 

Are these drawings for a tender for a single contractor to do everything? Then there should be clear notes and specs for everything you're wanting the contractor to do. 

 

We went separate trades once builder was done with the shell. Not a single trade from then on (except the spark) looked at our expensive, detailed drawings and specs. It was all point and spray up on site.

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For electrics we waited untill the house was up then I marked up a set of plans. It's easier when you can walk around it pretending to turn light switches on and off etc.

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22 minutes ago, Temp said:

For electrics we waited untill the house was up then I marked up a set of plans. It's easier when you can walk around it pretending to turn light switches on and off etc.

 

Agree - make sure you know what way doors are opening also. Made that mistake in the utility room...

 

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7 hours ago, Conor said:

We put network points in all the rooms but so far only used one... Everything else is on the mesh WiFi network.

 

I have 3 smart TVs (ours and kids) on wired connections, kids xBox, both our laptop dock stations, 3 BT WiFi discs, BT Router (backhaul of ethernet up to the IP switch), two NAS drives, BT/EE broadband backup box, Ikea smart hub - so quite a few bits & pieces. Printer and Revo would have been on that list if within distance of a Cat6 socket.

 

I figure the WiFi b/w is best used for truly mobile devices - that said with the BT disc system WiFi is much better than it was before. 

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Thank you all so much. I think we are using a builder to do the shell including roof then getting trades in after. That said it could change with tendering. I heard today builders are only keeping price for 5 days. Can't blame them given the state of world affairs. Also I don't want one to go bust especially mid job. All of the above is extremely useful, will deffo use it for next meeting. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

After it is all marked up go around the house and imagine switching on lights etc. Ours is an L shaped bungalow and as you leave the main living room you enter the angle of the L. The hall light switch has been placed about three or four paces away. It is very annoying if not unsafe. It was put there to be near the external door but nevertheless I would have asked for two if I had known.

 

Has anyone solved the problem of siting all living room furniture in the centre of a large lounge and then lighting that area using lamps? Bit annoying to not have a reading lamp of some sort in the centre unless you trail a lead.

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1 hour ago, patp said:

 

Has anyone solved the problem of siting all living room furniture in the centre of a large lounge and then lighting that area using lamps? Bit annoying to not have a reading lamp of some sort in the centre unless you trail a lead.

Heavy marble base in corner of room, light about 2m into room

16476767860325657239148988532657.jpg

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