MortarThePoint Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 This is an interesting note in the instruction manual: "We do not recommend mixing LEDs circuits with products such as extractor fans. This is due to the sensitive nature of LEDs and is not product specific" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 7 hours ago, Hilldes said: The alternatives are these which are dimmable, are switchable warm/cool white and also give off a nice diffused light: https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-indopro-fixed-fire-rated-led-downlight-satin-nickel-450lm-9w-240v/8969x Yes, a nice diffused light off those. I just fitted some for my clients in Oxford and very happy with the results ( bedroom ). Used These in the dining room and entrance lobby for a wart-free ‘infinite’ look to the ceiling. Champagne looks on lemonade money ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 2 hours ago, Hilldes said: I think you are right, I've not done a calculation, but I suspect going from 25mm deep battening to 50mm would not lose that much headroom/usable floor area. Right now, roofing batten (25mmx50mm) is though substantially cheaper than alternatives. Just make pockets where needed rather than volume work / costs / loss of height with oversized battens. It’s relatively simple to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwr Posted October 9, 2021 Author Share Posted October 9, 2021 15 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Just make pockets where needed rather than volume work / costs / loss of height with oversized battens. It’s relatively simple to do. I think most of the lights mentioned in this thread are deeper than or need a clearance than means a 25mm void is insufficient. So yes, making a pocket in the pir is an option, but if the vcl is between the void and the pir that means a cut out in the vcl and too and somehow sealing up. I know you can get plastic mouldings to help with this, but wouldn't it be easier to have the vcl on the other side of the pie? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 Taping the PIR means you can make holes all over it (as long as they dont pierce the foil on the reverse) and it will still function as a vcl, no need for anything behind it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam2 Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 On 08/10/2021 at 15:00, Nickfromwales said: Used These in the dining room and entrance lobby for a wart-free ‘infinite’ look to the ceiling. Champagne looks on lemonade money Nice but how do you get a nice plaster finish on the reveal/edge of plasterboard? Looks like could be a pain and slow to get a nice finish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragsterDriver Posted October 14, 2021 Share Posted October 14, 2021 Spoke to a fella yesterday who said ‘balloon build’ for my timber frame. Walls up, airtight layer, then a timber on the wall and fit the joists on hangers. not really relevant to this but interesting and avoiding the ‘around the joist’ hassle. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted October 14, 2021 Share Posted October 14, 2021 (edited) 11 hours ago, Adam2 said: Nice but how do you get a nice plaster finish on the reveal/edge of plasterboard? Looks like could be a pain and slow to get a nice finish I believe they are fitted and skimmed up to. The internal edge you can see is part of the fitting. Edited October 14, 2021 by Russell griffiths Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 14, 2021 Share Posted October 14, 2021 15 hours ago, Adam2 said: Nice but how do you get a nice plaster finish on the reveal/edge of plasterboard? Looks like could be a pain and slow to get a nice finish Eh? Look at the image again. The light has a projecting 4-5mm of metal tube which you skim to. The light fitting is the painted edge, just like a circular stop bead. The finish is done by the plasterer and is flawless, crisp and robust in zero time. Just a wipe clean of internal face of the ‘tube’ with a damp cloth after the skim has started to dry, roller with paint, and you’re done. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 14, 2021 Share Posted October 14, 2021 5 hours ago, DragsterDriver said: Spoke to a fella yesterday who said ‘balloon build’ for my timber frame. Walls up, airtight layer, then a timber on the wall and fit the joists on hangers. not really relevant to this but interesting and avoiding the ‘around the joist’ hassle. Basically what MBC are doing right now on a project I’m on. Just so much easier for a client who’s not familiar with building techniques and won’t know things have been missed until it’s too late. A turnkey build with written guarantees of 0.6 ACH or lower at handover is quite an attractive offering. ?. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragsterDriver Posted October 14, 2021 Share Posted October 14, 2021 28 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Basically what MBC are doing right now on a project I’m on. Just so much easier for a client who’s not familiar with building techniques and won’t know things have been missed until it’s too late. A turnkey build with written guarantees of 0.6 ACH or lower at handover is quite an attractive offering. ?. when ‘platform’ built is there a resource online that you can read about airtightess methods? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam2 Posted October 14, 2021 Share Posted October 14, 2021 8 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Eh? Look at the image again. The light has a projecting 4-5mm of metal tube which you skim to. The light fitting is the painted edge, just like a circular stop bead. The finish is done by the plasterer and is flawless, crisp and robust in zero time. Just a wipe clean of internal face of the ‘tube’ with a damp cloth after the skim has started to dry, roller with paint, and you’re done. Ahh great, looked to me like the lower semicircle was plaster not the fitting. Cheers 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwr Posted October 21, 2021 Author Share Posted October 21, 2021 I spoke to the electrician that the builder wants to use yesterday. He's never done a job with a 25mm service void, and didn't know what I was on about when I tried to explain that we want passivhaus level of insulation and air tightness... So, can anyone recommend an electrician in NI? Also, what is the best method of hanging wires in a void under vcl anyway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted October 21, 2021 Share Posted October 21, 2021 The cabling needs to be adequately supported, so he could fix to the side of the timber batten and have the socket next to the batten so the cabling is in the safe zone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwr Posted October 21, 2021 Author Share Posted October 21, 2021 (edited) 12 hours ago, TonyT said: The cabling needs to be adequately supported, so he could fix to the side of the timber batten and have the socket next to the batten so the cabling is in the safe zone But of a risk of plaster board screws missing the batten and going into the cable? Edited October 21, 2021 by cwr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted October 21, 2021 Share Posted October 21, 2021 Not really, not had a problem in 29 years of working in the building/engineering game. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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