Pocster Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 (edited) Hey all i like how easy these are to cut ! is it ok to cut a slither and use like 50mm or something . Or is this bad ???? just wondering !!!!! - not done anything mental yet ....... cheers all aporeciated !! Edited March 30, 2017 by pocster Shouldn't of wrote what I did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogman Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Use a saw I know i shouldn't have but i had an old sliding chop saw. stuck an old tct blade in and cut all mine. Not see easy if more than 4 inch thick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 you can buy a special handsaw for cutting them, but, a load of brickies I know just use a regular jacksaw if they cant be arsed going to the container for the proper saw, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 29, 2017 Author Share Posted March 29, 2017 (edited) Lol i cut these buggers with a wood saw no problem so a thin ish slither in a wall is ok ? It's strength isn't compromised??? thank you Edited March 30, 2017 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triassic Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 4 minutes ago, pocster said: It's strength isn't compromised??? What little strength it has isn't compromised! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogman Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 wood saw would last about 5 min, not sure about strength maybe someone else can help with that. You can buy a block saw http://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-fatmax-cellular-concrete-panel-saw-1-4tpi-25-650mm/96879 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Are you 50mm out of level and are using this under a block. Or is it vertical as a brick is to wide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 13 minutes ago, dogman said: wood saw would last about 5 min, not sure about strength maybe someone else can help with that. You can buy a block saw http://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-fatmax-cellular-concrete-panel-saw-1-4tpi-25-650mm/96879 guys on site use jacksaws all the time, they seem to be the goto after a hammer, use them for cutting thermalite, soilpipe, kingspan, anything but wood it would seem,,,,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 29, 2017 Author Share Posted March 29, 2017 Less than 50mm out and yes building a thermalite external wall . So can trim each slither to create a level . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Easier to take the 50mm out over a few courses. Over the next 7/10 courses that corner will be bedded slightly higher with more mortar. Are you building this yourself???? Are you using profiles or even a height stick to keep the coursing correct??? Very important for your wall ties and insulation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 29, 2017 Author Share Posted March 29, 2017 Lol just worried about getting the dpc level at this time . of course I'm building it myself :-) ; hence the posts lol lol height stick ? Erm ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Proper concrete saws are thicker than wood ones.....or at least my one is. Toolstation I think... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 How do you know that you are 50mm out of level, do you have access to a laser lever or a theodolite??? If you do have then go round all the corners and hammer in a nail so this is your mark you can measure of. From this you can measure every few course to see if you or high or low. You would be safer checking these every 4 course and writing on the wall if you are + or - out. You can go out of level very quickly which when you get to joist height can big time fcuk you up as you don't want one side of the joists on the block and the other sitting on masses of packers. A height stick is nothing fancy just a piece of timber that is pretty straight that you mark out 225mm sections on for each course of block. You have a mark at 225,450,675,900, etc. As you build a corner you can put the stick on the bottom course and then see if your heights are correct. So for your low corner you could make a mark at 230,460,690,920, so after 4 course you have got 20mm out of it. You can go up in bigger bed depths but it's harder to get the blocks to sit and you are safer taking baby steps first!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brickie Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 Are you using thermalites below dpc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 (edited) Hey all, Concrete blocks below DPC. To check my level i.e. know it was out; I cemented 1 brick at a corner. Then cemented another further along about 3 metres or so. I have a nice straight piece of steel I sat across the 2 and then stuck a spirit level on it. I adjusted the bed depth of the bricks until I'm pretty much level - then I can see my concrete blocks (below DPC) are out maybe 20mm tops in the middle (i.e. they rise). So my plan was to do a run of bricks making sure they are all level between those 2 fixed bricks. repeat this down the side of the build (around 9m). DPC on top of this and then thermalite blocks have a pretty level base to go from. Cheers all. Edited March 30, 2017 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brickie Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 Mmm,transferring levels like this isn't the best-if you're levels slightly out then you're not getting a true reading,then you've got slight human error (could read the bubble slightly wrong) which accumulates every time you move your steel. If you don't have access to a dumpy or laser level,I'd buy a water level. Don't think they're dear & are very accurate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 (edited) 2 hours ago, Brickie said: Mmm,transferring levels like this isn't the best-if you're levels slightly out then you're not getting a true reading,then you've got slight human error (could read the bubble slightly wrong) which accumulates every time you move your steel. If you don't have access to a dumpy or laser level,I'd buy a water level. Don't think they're dear & are very accurate. Hmmmm, ok. Seems pretty level though.... :-) I do have another issue though. See attached photo. These concrete blocks are the front. But I have to add 85mm reinforced concrete and insulation. So my DPC at this point would be less < 150mm. These blocks though are just about the same height all round the build - so I have a 'reasonable' level. As you can see my internal floor level is near the top of the block. if I add another entire block course my DPC will be fine but my door entrance (I assume DPC *must* run under doorway). If I do say half blocks or bricks to 'gain' height for my DPC then the entire perimeter block work will be lower and I don't fancy increasing it's height just to align everything. So what concerns me is my DPC level at the front and how I tie the corner together between the side wall (not visible yet - though can see see my steel running to the side behind the insulation to show it's height) and the front wall if the block courses are at different levels. I assume cutting a 'L' in a thermalite block to lap a corner (and allow for different heights) is not a recommended practise..... Edited March 30, 2017 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 1 hour ago, pocster said: I assume cutting a 'L' in a thermalite block to lap a corner (and allow for different heights) is not a recommended practise..... Well if that's wrong..... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 F me ! So that's ok ????????? so I can cut my thermalite any way I want really !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 3 minutes ago, pocster said: F me ! So that's ok ????????? so I can cut my thermalite any way I want really !! It's ONLY a shed base using up some 1860's stocks and modern Celcon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 I find it useful to raid the playroom in order to visualise blockwork, like this as yet unstarted pillar for the gate: Getting a bit more real with some loose blocks: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 Lol so ...... rather than do an entire perimeter of extra bricks just to make all the edge level ( but with differing dpc ) can I 'lap' corners ?? . In theory it shouldn't matter ....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 I'd lap it personally. Some strategically placed building materials, diversionary plate of biscuits or missus in a low cut top should the BCO pay too much attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 2 minutes ago, Onoff said: I'd lap it personally. Some strategically placed building materials, diversionary plate of biscuits or missus in a low cut top should the BCO pay too much attention. Lol ! so it won't be the usual stagger on the corner - I suppose it doesn't really matter . I'll make sure some sheet ply is resting against the corner when the building inspector looks ... :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brickie Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 42 minutes ago, pocster said: Lol ! so it won't be the usual stagger on the corner - I suppose it doesn't really matter . I'll make sure some sheet ply is resting against the corner when the building inspector looks ... :-) You're losing me here-are you proposing to build the entire job with block coursing at different heights on adjacent flanks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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