Crofter Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 Having started plasterboarding today I've realised I have some fairly basic questions. I understand it's good practice to avoid lining up board edges with the edges of openings- much as you would do with the frame sheathing. But I can't do this unless I cut a board in half lengthways. Is it really a good idea to add an extra floor to ceiling butt joint (and a messy cut edge meets tapered edge joint, at that) just to avoid having a tiny joint above a door?? Secondly, how important is it to leave a gap between the boards and the floor? I get the point where you have an old house with a potentially damp concrete floor, but this is a suspended timber floor. Third, any tips on getting a good finish in places where I am joining cut boards, or cut boards meeting taper edge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 why are you using tapered boards? are you going to dry line it or plaster it/ if you are plastering no need for tapered boards, you shouldnt usually have a cut edge meet a tapered board, put the cuts to the corners/walls, mark out the walls and start in the middle-ish if you really need to to avoid having any cuts in line with the openings [but tbh, its not a big issue if you use decent tape] , that way all your cut boards will be in the corners, remember and stagger the joints Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 Tapered is the standard around here. Most people just tape and fill, and don't bother with a skim coat. It simply isn't possible to avoid some cut-to-taper joints. E.g. today I was boarding around a window that's 1800 wide. So each side has a board with a cut out, and the middle is a piece 600 wide. That piece can obviously only have one edge tapered. Then carrying on along the wall, the next opening will be on a board edge- hence my question about whether to cut a board in half lengthways to avoid this (this is what i did for the sheathing). If I continue without a half width board, I'll end up with a tapered edge at the doorway... but I guess I could just fill that?? Not ideal but it looks like I have to compromise somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 4 minutes ago, Crofter said: Tapered is the standard around here. Most people just tape and fill, and don't bother with a skim coat. It simply isn't possible to avoid some cut-to-taper joints. E.g. today I was boarding around a window that's 1800 wide. So each side has a board with a cut out, and the middle is a piece 600 wide. That piece can obviously only have one edge tapered. Then carrying on along the wall, the next opening will be on a board edge- hence my question about whether to cut a board in half lengthways to avoid this (this is what i did for the sheathing). If I continue without a half width board, I'll end up with a tapered edge at the doorway... but I guess I could just fill that?? Not ideal but it looks like I have to compromise somewhere. ok, I understand now, I think, when you get to one side of the window, you dont jump to the other side and then patch in the bit inbetween, you carry on edge to edge, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 are you using full size sheets? or 6x3's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 1 hour ago, Steptoe said: ok, I understand now, I think, when you get to one side of the window, you dont jump to the other side and then patch in the bit inbetween, you carry on edge to edge, The choice is jump to the other side, leaving a bit needing patched, or end up with a board edge lined up with the opening, risking cracks. It has to be in one or the other. They're full size sheets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tennentslager Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 Can't you take a multi tool and cut a feather edge once the board is screwed home? Then tape and fill...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 put that board on sideways? that'll give you 2400mm, get a 6x3 board for that bit? but I see where you are, its just a bad size . or, if you put the first board on with a 1000 overhang, then the other side will have an 800 overhang, with the join offset 'centre' above the window. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 1 minute ago, Tennentslager said: Can't you take a multi tool and cut a feather edge once the board is screwed home? Then tape and fill...? Possibly. Maybe need some fine sandpaper to smooth off the cut edge of the paper. But I'm hoping this is a solved problem. I can't be the first person to wonder how to do this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 2 minutes ago, Tennentslager said: Can't you take a multi tool and cut a feather edge once the board is screwed home? Then tape and fill...? Nope. That will move the paper further away and remove any purchase the screws had. Screwing into the plaster of plasterboard will be worthless in terms of fixing. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 1 hour ago, Steptoe said: are you using full size sheets? or 6x3's I've never seen a taper board in less than 8x4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 1 minute ago, Nickfromwales said: I've never seen a taper board in less than 8x4. I dont honestly know tbh, I've only ever used 8x4 s myself, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 In my continuing search for an answer on this, Google throws up this suggestion: https://www.familyhandyman.com/drywall/taping/drywall-butt-joints-made-easy/view-all Basically you force the board into a taper by screwing down onto a thinner batten. I guess this could work but it seems a bit of a bodge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tennentslager Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 Or...fly to the States and buy some rock splicer *TM* http://www.thisisdrywall.com/?p=362 Same principle, in that you bend the butt join inwards away from plumb so it's easy to fill but still ensure the integrity of the board...I'd get a quote for a skim, bet you won't regret the extra payout. Then again, holiday guests won't care in the slightest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted March 29, 2017 Author Share Posted March 29, 2017 Well in the absence of any other info, I think I will just minimise joints even if this means one or two joins end up lining up with openings. The sheets are fixed to battens which are separated from the studs by a layer of 50mm PIR, so I think there is scope for slight movement in the frame without that translating to cracks on the sheets. Certainly I have a lot more fixings holding the sheets to the battens than I have holding the battens to the studs, and those are long 150mm screws with a bit of flex in them. Could just be wishful thinking. No opinions on whether to leave a gap at the bottom or not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichS Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Yes, leave a gap at the bottom, even if only about 20mm, to be hidden behind the skirting board. If any liquids get spilled on the floor this will prevent the damp from rising up the boards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted March 29, 2017 Author Share Posted March 29, 2017 Another question... where I have to butt two boards together, e.g. on walls that have vaulted ceilings above them, is it better to leave say a 5mm gap for easier filling, or should I just sit them flush? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 24 minutes ago, Crofter said: Another question... where I have to butt two boards together, e.g. on walls that have vaulted ceilings above them, is it better to leave say a 5mm gap for easier filling, or should I just sit them flush? Just sit them flush. I was speaking to a decorator about this - he does tape and fill but says he never specs TE boards as the finish is fine without. No need for gaps - he said if there are, just put caulk in the gaps before taping. I meant to respond about boards to floor but couldn't remember why I left a gap. Partly it makes boards easier to fit but also because I also thought if there was a spill it might be better if the boards don't touch the floor. Decorator said he'll come down and give me some lessons that will save me hours and avoid having to sand everything. Will share once he's been J 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Erm.....I know "a bloke" who's just fitting plasterboard in his bathroom and he has gone down to the floor with it. It is the green moisture resistant one btw. So no gap. "His" plan is to tile the floor first then bring the wall tiles down. All wall to floor junctions will be done with tanking tape beforehand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 30 minutes ago, Onoff said: Erm.....I know "a bloke" who's just fitting plasterboard in his bathroom and he has gone down to the floor with it. It is the green moisture resistant one btw. So no gap. "His" plan is to tile the floor first then bring the wall tiles down. All wall to floor junctions will be done with tanking tape beforehand. Plasterboard and MDF architrave run down to the floor in a bathroom often get ruined as soon as there is any leak or spill. Trouble is it is easier just to stand it on the floor and fix it, rater than chock it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 Another wee question: On the vaulted ceiling, there are exposed beams that the boards will have to be cut around. In some places the beam is at the edge of the board and I will cut a small chunk out, all good, but other beams land smack bang in the middle of a board. So I presume my options are: - split a board longways up the middle, and fit it around the beam. Pros: no additional battens needed. Cons: full length cut edge joint. - split the board across its width and put one part above and one below the beam. Pros: shorter total joint length. Cons: Will need extra battens to support it What would you chaps do? And don't say "make sure the beams are all on 1200 centres", it's a bit late for that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Pics?! I think it know what you mean but want to check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 (edited) 18 hours ago, jamiehamy said: Pics?! I think it know what you mean but want to check Here we go... the next bit of pb on the left has to be cut to fit round the beam... so vertically or horizontally? I have already planned the boarding of the ceiling so as to maximise the number of full boards, but there are three each side that clash with the beams. Edited April 4, 2017 by Crofter Forgot photo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 tbh it's really six and half a dozen. Initially I thought split across the width and join with some osb/4x1 but the longways cut will do fine. I would cut across if I was doing it today. Sorry that's not very helpful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Cut across. Definitely. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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