Are there any products to replace a wall between a downstairs toilet and kitchen?

[Dan_the_man]

I am yet to build anything but In my quest to fit in as much cabinetry into my future kitchen as possible I am contemplating the idea of not building part of a cavity wall between a downstairs toilet and the kitchen. The two rooms would still be technically sealed. The weak point of the seal would be two 18mm pieces of wood of the cabinetry of a washing machine in the downstairs toilet and the fridge/freezer in the kitchen butt up against each other. Above the cabinetry would be sealed by joining the two cavity walls at the top.

 

Are there any products which would be 40mm thin where I can seal the two rooms from each other rather than having to relay on the cabinetry.

 

Cheers

 

[Onoff]

Is the finish on this 40mm board important? You can get 40mm thick fire board. Google "40mm fire board".

 

Or make a sandwich of 12.5mm fire resistant plasterboard + 18 mm of ply then another 12.5mm of maybe moisture resistant plasterboard on the bathroom side? 43mm in total. 

[Dan_the_man]

Just now, Onoff said:

Is the finish on this 40mm board important? You can get 40mm thick fire board. Google "40mm fire board".

 

Or make a sandwich of 12.5mm fire resistant plasterboard + 18 mm of ply then another 12.5mm of maybe moisture resistant plasterboard on the bathroom side? 43mm in total. 

 

Would this comply with full uk building regulations? I.e. having the bathroom fully separated with the kitchen. It seems my wooden idea would not have been building regulations compliant.

[Onoff]

5 minutes ago, Dan_the_man said:

 

Would this comply with full uk building regulations? I.e. having the bathroom fully separated with the kitchen. It seems my wooden idea would not have been building regulations compliant.

 

No ideas. Do you have a BC involved? 

[Temp]

Sounds like the heat exchanger on the back of the freezer would be in a recess? That should be well ventilated to let the heat out.

[Dan_the_man]

Not yet. I will have to query this with them.

[Dan_the_man]

Just now, Temp said:

Sounds like the heat exchanger on the back of the freezer would be in a recess? That should be well ventilated to let the heat out.

 

I intend to vent it out into the downstairs toilet.

[Temp]

Is this a new house?

[Dan_the_man]

2 minutes ago, Temp said:

Is this a new house?

 

No it is not a new house. It is a 1910 period property. I am just doing renovations to it.

Edited January 29, 2021 by Dan_the_man

[Onoff]

I thing it's building regs Part B & E that might apply so fire safety and sound insulation. It's an unusual one you have there I think! @nod, any super thin stud partition systems he could use?

[Ferdinand]

How thin did Jeremy get his walk-in wardrobe wall?

[PeterW]

No requirement for fire regulations as the downstairs WC is exempt as it is not a habitable room. 
 

I would probably do it as you’ve got it but remember you’ll get a sound path under the plinth so maybe block that.  

[ProDave]

If it is just standard kitchen cabinet carcasses then there will be a sound gap at the top as well as few kitchen cabinets go right to the ceiling, those would be unusually tall gable end panels for that.

 

But why do you want the washing machine in the toilet where it is a more cramped space to get to to load and unload it?  Why not have the washing machine in the kitchen as well and a bit more worktop above it in the kitchen?

 

I once made a short bit of thin wall in a situation like that, a number of 25mm battens horizontally between the two proper walls and 12.5mm plasterboard each side. It made a good solid short bit of wall 50mm thick.

[nod]

1 hour ago, Onoff said:

I thing it's building regs Part B & E that might apply so fire safety and sound insulation. It's an unusual one you have there I think! @nod, any super thin stud partition systems he could use?

You can use a 50 I stud 

Total of 70 mil wall finish 

I’ve used them for splitting toilet stalls (Commercial) Insulated they fall within building regs 

[TonyT]

Nice meal being prepared in the kitchen with the musical accompaniment of someone straining on the pan.

 

wall with insulation for me all the time

[ProDave]

5 minutes ago, TonyT said:

Nice meal being prepared in the kitchen with the musical accompaniment of someone straining on the pan.

 

wall with insulation for me all the time

In your house perhaps.

 

If I need to "strain on the pan" I will go and choose whichever toilet in the house is furthest from others so I can strain in peace.

[Dan_the_man]

2 hours ago, nod said:

You can use a 50 I stud 

Total of 70 mil wall finish 

I’ve used them for splitting toilet stalls (Commercial) Insulated they fall within building regs 

 

This sounds like the best option. If I were to remove the 18mm panel on the fridge/freezer cabinet that would mean its only 52mm thick. Would the material be suitable to fix the top and bottom parts of the 600mm wide cabinet to in lieu of having no side panel.

 

[Onoff]

2 hours ago, nod said:

You can use a 50 I stud 

Total of 70 mil wall finish 

I’ve used them for splitting toilet stalls (Commercial) Insulated they fall within building regs 

 

What's the make up you're saying there then, think he wants pb both sides? Are you meaning 9.5+50+9.5 = "70"

 

[Onoff]

20 minutes ago, Dan_the_man said:

 

This sounds like the best option. If I were to remove the 18mm panel on the fridge/freezer cabinet that would mean its only 52mm thick. Would the material be suitable to fix the top and bottom parts of the 600mm wide cabinet to in lieu of having no side panel.

 

This is typical of I stud:

 

 

[Ed21]

You seem to have a void to the left of kitchen cabinet. 

Why not make the cupboard 400mm instead of 500mm (guessing by the size of the fridge).
and build the carcass so shelves go into the void. This will increase the storage space by
as much as 50% at least, even allow for a decent corner feature and allow for a wall upto
100mm, with as much sound insulation you can get in. 

PS: It can also look better. 
We tend to like symmetrical or offset, close to symmetrical can upset the eye, which
why 600 + 600 is ok as is 600 + 400, but 600 + 500 not so much. 

Edited January 29, 2021 by Ed21

[TonyT]

2 hours ago, ProDave said:

In your house perhaps.

 

If I need to "strain on the pan" I will go and choose whichever toilet in the house is furthest from others so I can strain in peace.

Indeed do I, However it’s a downstairs WC so imagine someone will at some point, and I would rather have a normal partition with sound insulation.

 

also agree that accessing a washing machine from a small WC is impractical.

[Dan_the_man]

28 minutes ago, TonyT said:

Indeed do I, However it’s a downstairs WC so imagine someone will at some point, and I would rather have a normal partition with sound insulation.

 

also agree that accessing a washing machine from a small WC is impractical.

 

This is another option for the downstairs toilet, it involves moving the washing machine and gas boiler along the party wall inside the downstairs toilet. It would allow proper sound insulation and give ample room to work around the washing machine. The downstairs toilet is 1200mm at its narrowest point. The toilet goes into a stud wall giving a front projection of 650mm. The sink is next to the toilet. The aspect of this design I hate is there is only 1030mm from the front of the fridge/freezer to the island which I feel the island might get in the way. The other option gives much more room around the island and would even allow me to extend its size by 200mm

 

Edited January 29, 2021 by Dan_the_man