Tiling Floor

[Pocster]

1 hour ago, Onoff said:

 

+1

 

Wall tiles would have looked like pi$$y little rips there. Cut floor tiles will look much better.

 

As Uncle Nick taught me:

 

Put an upside down tile on 1mm / credit card thick packs. To get your cut line etc.

 

upside down and back to front then 

Edited December 5, 2020 by pocster

[Onoff]

24 minutes ago, pocster said:

upside down and back to front then

 

Yep. You then get a factory edge on top. 

 

You remove the 1mm packs when the tile adhesive has gone off. Then ram in clear CT1 and baby wipe off. Finish with a fillet of your choice of coloured silicone.

 

 

(& remember to only take photos of the good bits ? )

[scottishjohn]

if floor tiles are thicker --then carve some pB away so they can fit flush once they are loaded with adhesive --can,t be much more than 2 or 3 mm to remove from thickness of PB

 not ideal but it would work

 might be easier to just cut out PB there and fit thinner  ply or maybe 9mm cement board  to get space needed to use thicker  floor tiles for the upstand you want

Edited December 5, 2020 by scottishjohn

[Pocster]

Reading online it suggests 3mm min grout width for floors . Watched the rubi delta levelling system ( which I used on my walls with 2mm spacers ) - in the vid the floors done with the white clips - which are only 1mm .

So I’m asking am I ok with 2mm for the floor ??? .

[Pocster]

Though BAL do suggest 2mm grout line is fine with their product ...

[Pocster]

Mapei also say 2mm ok with their product .

 

Guess I’d need not worry ?

[bassanclan]

3mm is better with flooring especially larger tiles, unless you are trying to line up with the wall tiles

[Pocster]

19 minutes ago, bassanclan said:

3mm is better with flooring especially larger tiles, unless you are trying to line up with the wall tiles

Yeah I was considering lining up the grout lines wall to floor . I was more worried if 2mm wasn’t wide enough I.e grout would fail - but it would seem with modern products it’s ok .

[Pocster]

Decoupling mat down 

Tiles are 600mm x 600mm so I believe a minimum of a 10mm notched trowel ?

 

Back buttered obviously ? 

Edited December 16, 2020 by pocster

[Taff]

is your floor concrete? Did you put any primer down on the floor Prior to tiling

[Pocster]

10 hours ago, Taff said:

is your floor concrete? Did you put any primer down on the floor Prior to tiling

Screed yes . No primer . But adhesive for decoupling Matt 

[Taff]

I’m putting porcelain directly on to screed, there UFH under that, not sure if I require primer down or not ?

[scottishjohn]

me being thick -- but what is pupose of decoupling mat  

maybe I been lucky but my lounge tiiled 15years ago with 450mm tiles on top of my suspended wooden floor  in which i buried UFH 

 

not had any problems

[Russell griffiths]

5 minutes ago, Taff said:

I’m putting porcelain directly on to screed, there UFH under that, not sure if I require primer down or not ?

You should really have a decoupling Mat under them. 

 

1 minute ago, scottishjohn said:

me being thick -- but what is pupose of decoupling mat  

maybe I been lucky but my lounge tiiled 15years ago with 450mm tiles on top of my suspended wooden floor  in which i buried UFH 

 

not had any problems

It’s really about differential movement 

solid screed expanding and contracting as it warms and cools

with yours you probably have enough different layers to accommodate a bit of movement in the wooden layers. 

 

In the scheme of things £5-6-7 hundred quid an the mat is probably good insurance. 

[scottishjohn]

for all types of floor then ?

If using ufh  the diference in size ,presuming you do it in normal conditions will be miniscule ,eg ufh on at 22c

can,t see there would be any need 

wood --yes i can see there could be problems if floor bounces etc 

interesting

 

 

[Taff]

I’m using butec super flex s2 rapid. I’ve been through all the documentation and it doesn’t state any mat. It states can be installed directly on areas with slight movement, including all the surfaces that are present in our house.

[Pocster]

My screed was put down over a year ago . So it’s dried out . But cracks have appeared at the weaker points I.e across doorways .

I think it’s a bit of luck whether a tile cracks or not . But I’d rather have a decoupling mat , flexible adhesive, flexible grout . If it cracks then - just bad luck . I also have expansion strips which I will install in the doorways .

I could do none of the above and never have a tile crack - but I’m not feeling that lucky ! 

[Taff]

We’ve put expansion all around the room prior to screeding however I’ve found a further niggle that I’m struggling with. Below the sliding door we have dpm with no screed. There is no space for screed so just enough room for the adhesive and tile. It’s a small section but will be under 3/4 ‘s of a tile! Don’t know how I’m going to achieve this. Do I remove that section of dpm, there is a dpm further below the substrate. If so it would be sitting on a bit of breeze block ? I ain’t got a pic to show yet. 

[scottishjohn]

40 minutes ago, pocster said:

My screed was put down over a year ago . So it’s dried out . But cracks have appeared at the weaker points I.e across doorways

yes that i can see might cause a problem 

 

[joe90]

4 hours ago, Taff said:

not sure if I require primer down or not

I did, as suggested by the welsh dragon, why would you not, costs pennies. I did not use a decoupling mat but I cut into the screed (a little) across doorways so if a crack was going to happen I created a weak point for it to happen exactly where the tiles stop/change . Rather than grout this tile join I used flexible mastic to cope with any movement. (Or I will do when I get round to my “to do list” ?‍♂️).

[Gav_P]

13 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Or I will do when I get round to my “to do list” ?‍♂️).

Weren’t you saying you were bored only yesterday on another thread?? Get on with it man ??