Repairing and Levelling Original Parquet

[jamesgreenuk]

Hello, 

 

I'm after some guidance on how best to proceed renovating some nice parquet flooring. 

 

My goal is to get the parquet flush with the Forbo layed in the hallway and restore it to a great condition. 

 

The build up is concrete with what looks like a bitumen adhesive. 

 

Wondering if I lift the floor and pour screed or can build up by laying chipboard at the necessary thickness then re adhere the parquet, sanding, filing then finish. 

 

I've attached a couple photos and thanks in advance! 

 

James

 

 

[Russell griffiths]

If you lift that up I bet you it ends up in a skip, 

thats a monumental job to lift it and relay. 

Unless you are madly in love with it the labour involved would far outweigh skipping it and buying new engineered wood floor, the time you have sanded out the mess the monkey plasterers have made you could have laid new stuff.  

[bassanclan]

How many tiles are loose?

[jamesgreenuk]

13 hours ago, bassanclan said:

How many tiles are loose?

 

Quite a few are loose. 1/10 perhaps. 

 

Not adverse to a large project just curious to know what the best approach would be to achieving a level finish across all floor finished. 

 

Many thanks,

 

James

[markc]

cleaning the bitumen off is the hardest part, the pieces usually lift up with bits of stone or concrete attached that all need cleaning off. Sadly bitumen does not go well through woodwork machines so planing is out of the question.

[Mr Punter]

I don't know the difference in levels.  If it is more than 50mm, lay insulation thickness to suit, 22mm chipboard flooring and glue the parquet to the chipboard.

[bassanclan]

It's not a job to undertake lightly. It will cost £60 per sq m for it to be renovated by a professional. Given the change in height you may be wise to stick s thich underlay and carpet over!

[PeterW]

I’ve just laid 20 sqm of 100 year old parquet and removed the bitumen off the back with a Triton Bench Planer - it trashed a set of blades but was worth it. You have to use a solvent based adhesive like Lecol 5500 or Sikabond but it lays ok. Mine was T&G so had to be cleaned all sides  which made it harder. 
 

With the modern solvent adhesives you don’t have to remove all the bitumen but it does smell a bit when it’s being laid. 

[Oz07]

Was the place nice @PeterW 

Last place I had with it ripped it up, sold it and fitted engineered. Just wasn't worth the aggro of ripping up, cleaning and putting back down. Would have to have some serious historical property for me to be bothered doing that!

[jamesgreenuk]

Thanks everyone.

 

It has made me think carefully before I take this job on. 

 

In an effort to get the Forbo Marmoleum and Parquet level. (Forbo is 6-5mm Higher)

 

Would grinding the concrete on a gradient towards the parquet be more advisable than raising the parquet?

 

Thanks again for all the comments.

[PeterW]

2 hours ago, Oz07 said:

Was the place nice @PeterW 

Last place I had with it ripped it up, sold it and fitted engineered. Just wasn't worth the aggro of ripping up, cleaning and putting back down. Would have to have some serious historical property for me to be bothered doing that!

Debatable ..! It was “only” £10/m but by the time it’s done and finished I’m pretty sure it would have been cheaper to buy new ..!!

[jfb]

Much easier to cope with the height difference at the threshold. Could put a wooden strip across on a slight tilt. I think it would be madness to try to raise the parquet for that height difference. 

[Ferdinand]

Can you not just slice the top (say) 80% off the parquet with an appropriate fixed saw (table?) with a guide, then lay that back on a flat base?

 

Call them Parquet Slips.

 

Swerve the bitumen.

 

That way you know exactly how much oak or pine or whatever you will have to cut through by checking the area of the room ? .

 

One thing that always happens is that you lose some, so you need to have a plan for using 5-10% less.