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And the best cure for this is ....

Featured Replies

20201017_085651.thumb.jpg.f25ebadeda76072fe16f26d135a1d553.jpg

... apart from knocking the house down and starting again.....

I'm told we've all done it, so we've all sorted it out. Help me not to cock the repair up please. Ta!

Been there!

 

Piece of plasterboard cut with the same hole cutter. Affix with one or two pb screws but leave a constant  gap round the edge. Squirt in some no nails or similar with an uncut nozzle. Make sure the no nails is below the surface. Finish with Easifill. Paint and forget.

 

 

You’ve just built a whole house, I’m sure you can figure out how to patch that up, c,mon 

 

mix up up an egg cup full of board adhesive, dampen sides of hole , coat edges with adhesive, fit cutout back in hole. 

 

Fill with fine surface filler, re paint. 

 

Sort of like onoff but I don’t like no nails as it’s non sand able so any drips or bits that hang down are a pain, board adhesive can be allowed to squidge out and trimmed back with a knife before filling. 

Access ceiling from above, reposition joist, move light back to original hole...

Edited by MJNewton

I could get to my faux pas from both sides and it was pre skimming do I clamped the pb round in with a couple of bits of batten. Secured with no nails or similar. Once set the round was perfectly level.

 

2018-01-25_06-08-31

 

I might in TB's case, genuinely fill the gap (sub level) with intumescent mastic with the aim of retaining the fire integrity of the board at that point. I didn't do this on as I have fire hoods covering the downlights.

 

Different strokes etc.

  • Author
44 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

You’ve just built a whole house, I’m sure you can figure out how to patch that up, c,mon ....

 

Yes, of course I can Russ. But my common sense isn't that common.

Just screw a round in and Easifill. You'll have it done and painted before SWMBO gets back and she'll be none the wiser! ?

32 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

 

 

I might in TB's case, genuinely fill the gap (sub level) with intumescent mastic with the aim of retaining the fire integrity of the board at that point. I didn't do this on as I have fire hoods covering the downlights.

 

Different strokes etc.


Using board adhesive as @Russell griffiths said rather than no nails etc would do that anyway so no need as the adhesive has a fire rating. 

I have seen some that make that mistake, and then carry on and drill out half the joist so the light can still go in the "right" place.  No don't do that.

 

 

I have done it - and repaired pretty much the same as everyone has suggested.

 

Before completing the repair - use the joist as a datum to check the rest of your holes will be in the correct place :)

Look what this idiot did the other day. Not my job I'm just there subbing. I mean the fact he uses chalk annoys me as opposed to laser, then the fact he can't see it's not running parallel with the wall. Worst bit is it wasn't even the apprentice. Client visited the 9ther day, apparently used to be in f1, is now into automation and he has an eye for detail. He going to be in for a world of pain when he moves in here. Asked me to quote to board his garage loft think I'll swerve that one thanks...

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