Tile Backer Board or Marine plywood?

[Snowbeetle]

Work progresses on Bungalow Barn, all the partition walls are in as studs and we are starting first fix plumbing. I am planning materials for next stages. 

We intended to board out the bathroom with marine plywood so we could tile directly to that and it would cope with humid environment. Then I went to a local reputable tile shop on a reccy and they said that marine plywood isn't what it once was, the quality has gone down and now they recommend using tile backer board. I hadn't heard of this before, the sample was foam with very slim concrete (?) skin either side kept stable by mesh.

 

The tile shop weren't trying to sell it and they have a very good reputation for advice... but I am just not sure of the pro's and con's and so I'm here wondering if anyone has experience with either or both that could help me decide which to use... Thanks

[Conor]

Hardi backer board. Pretty much standard way to tile on to wooden structures. I'm not sure of I'd have it as the only material on your stud walls.. you also have to bear in mind building regs re fire and sound. I'm sure somebody will come along and clarify.

[Temp]

41 minutes ago, Snowbeetle said:

now they recommend using tile backer board. I hadn't heard of this before, the sample was foam with very slim concrete (?) skin either side kept stable by mesh.

 

Ok that sounds like Wedi Board. I have used that to make a wash stand. Nice to use for that because it cuts easily. Mine is hung with travertine stone and has been fine. However I did insert wooden blocks to provide anchor points for towel rails etc. I don't think it would survive if we wanted to remove the stone and retile with something else  later. 

 

This fire rating relates to just the board not a stud wall clad with board..

https://materialdistrict.com/material/wedi-panel/

Panel fire rating according to DIN 4102-1 (from 4 mm board thickness) is B2 and the fire rating EN 13501 is E. 

 

For the rest of our room we used Hardi Backer Board. That's a solid cement board that is virtually bomb proof. Quite hard to cut but no problem fixing things to it (if you can't find a stud in the right place). We used the 12mm thickness straight over studs.  Hardi Backer Board doesn't burn but it can conduct heat to other flammable materials. So I'm not sure exactly what fire rating a stud wall clad with Hardi Backer Board has. Our BCO didn't question it (if he noticed).  Best ask yours.

 

https://www.jameshardie.com/product-support/resource-center/technical-documents/fire-prevention-faq

 

This fire rating relates to just the board not a stud wall clad with board but compare with above..

https://www.jameshardie.co.uk/import/Documents/HardieBacker Multi Fuel Installation Guide.pdf

It passes the industry fire test

EN 13501-1 giving it fully non-combustible A1 classification.

[simon45089]

I now avoid using plywood for showers due to movement that has resulted in cracked tiles. This is a huge pain if you havent got any spare tiles left over 12 months or so down the line.

Previously I have not has a problem with ply for shower enclosures, but maybe quality has now dropped as the last  three bathrooms I did about 4 years ago in a barn conversion have all suffered from cracked tiles due to movement. Cement board all the way now.

Simon.

[Snowbeetle]

That's all really helpful folks. So I will scrap the marine plywood idea and focus on tile backer board. That's my concept chosen, just need to pick the product - I have come across Wedi and some other brands like Marmox which all look pretty similar but I hadn't come across Hardiebacker which is a great one to have in the mix for comparison because it is a different composition.

 

Thanks for helping me sort the sheep from the goats on that one. 

[Gone West]

32 minutes ago, Snowbeetle said:

So I will scrap the marine plywood idea and focus on tile backer board.

We used 12mm HardieBacker in our three bathrooms and it was a sod to cut and drill. I just couldn't bring myself to use Marmox although I considered it long and hard.

[Temp]

I have used a TCT jigsaw blade for small openings but its still hard work and blade wear is fast.. Score and snap for straight lines..

 

 

 

Edited September 25, 2020 by Temp

[Mr Punter]

1 hour ago, Temp said:

I have used a TCT jigsaw blade for small openings but its still hard work and blade wear is fast.. Score and snap for straight lines..

 

 

 

 

The use of the grinder at about 3 minutes was, err, interesting. Holding the grinder the wrong way round, nearly cutting the power lead and not securing the work-piece.

[Russell griffiths]

2 hours ago, Mr Punter said:

 

The use of the grinder at about 3 minutes was, err, interesting. Holding the grinder the wrong way round, nearly cutting the power lead and not securing the work-piece.

Oh Lordy, he was a special type of clever. 

[Onoff]

I used Aqua Panel. 6mm and 12mm thick.

 

Cuts made using a cheap circular saw with a TCT blade, carbide grit edged jigsaw blades and Starrett cutters.

 

It's good stuff but brittle. Studwork has to be dead level or it'll hairline crack. Not a major deal as it's full of interwoven strands and the subsequent tanking / tile adhesive sticks / seals any cracks

[Pocster]

Delta board for me . Easy to cut ; water resistant ( not waterproof ) . Light weight - tiles seem to stick to it ?