Russell griffiths Posted September 23, 2020 Share Posted September 23, 2020 Evening all. Can anybody point me at some current regs regarding a light switch for an en-suite bathroom. I can do a sketch if you don’t understand my rambling. I would like to put a switch on the bathroom wall just as you enter but I’m under the impression that used to not be allowed and that’s why we have those horrible pull cords, however if I move the switch just 100mm away it would then be outside the room which seams just ridiculous that that would be ok. Anybody understand and what I’m getting at. Anybody know the regs. @ProDave @Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 23, 2020 Share Posted September 23, 2020 Just use a Quinetic, job done. Use an MK or Varilight grid style Quinetic module if you don't like the big ones. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Manufacturers/Quinetic/index.html 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted September 23, 2020 Author Share Posted September 23, 2020 So are you saying as a quinetic one has no mains power supply I can basically stick it anywhere @Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted September 23, 2020 Share Posted September 23, 2020 2 hours ago, Onoff said: Just use a Quinetic, job done. Use an MK or Varilight grid style Quinetic module if you don't like the big ones. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Manufacturers/Quinetic/index.html That's what I am using in most bathroom jobs these days. Really trick to have a hidden 2G switch behind / adjacent to the bath so you can flip between feature / low level accent lighting and ceiling spots without meeting the man upstairs. 2 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said: So are you saying as a quinetic one has no mains power supply I can basically stick it anywhere @Onoff Yup. They are IP67 switches that I mostly use. Shit hot and super reliable too. Just put them in my man cave so I could turn off the lights from a second switch by my back door ( Quinetic too ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted September 23, 2020 Share Posted September 23, 2020 No batteries either, as the quinetic refers to the instant energy created by you pressing the switch rocker. That movement creates the energy required to send the signal to the receiver. They work from miles away too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted September 23, 2020 Share Posted September 23, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted September 23, 2020 Share Posted September 23, 2020 Use them all the time now and so quick to use. Surprised they haven’t brought out a Quinetic ceiling rose yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted September 23, 2020 Author Share Posted September 23, 2020 Excellent chaps, another problem sorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 9 hours ago, Russell griffiths said: So are you saying as a quinetic one has no mains power supply I can basically stick it anywhere @Onoff You literally can stick it anywhere. Take out of packet, pair with the receiver, place between butt cheeks and clench..... Seriously they're brilliant. Got one next to the bath. Just stuck on the wall. Nothing behind, no drilling of tiles etc. Can lie back with a beer, turn the Bluetooth tunes on and chill. (Literally, as getting enough hot water to fill the bath is another saga). Comes with options of a double sided sticky pad or you can screw the back plate on. You can also get a little metal bracket to fit across an existing back box in the wall. Video doesn't do them justice tbh. (Only thing is they're a tad "clacky" noise wise maybe, especially in an echoing bathroom. Grid type switches are quieter. One switch pairs to a dimming receiver that controls the downlights. The other just to a plain 6A receiver that does the feature blue lights. When I put this in the finish range was limited otherwise I'd have gone with a chrome effect one they now do in IP67. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freshy Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 This is great! Gotta love this forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted September 24, 2020 Author Share Posted September 24, 2020 I hope you had some clothes on while filming that @Onoff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jimbo Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 Onoff and frankie say Relax. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 1 hour ago, Big Jimbo said: Onoff and frankie say Relax. I might put that on the ceiling speakers when I'm having a shower later. Video to follow... ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanneja Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 I take it you need a receiver linked to the light circuit which listens for the switch radio signal? It is radio and not wifi I am reading? Is the wiring of the receiver a DIY job for the very inexperienced? Does it need to go in the ceiling behind the light? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 31 minutes ago, tanneja said: I take it you need a receiver linked to the light circuit which listens for the switch radio signal? It is radio and not wifi I am reading? Is the wiring of the receiver a DIY job for the very inexperienced? Does it need to go in the ceiling behind the light? Yes - watch the video, it’s about the size of a matchbox. The receiver can be paired with a lot of different switches - the dimmer ones are retractive so don’t “show” they are on, but that is useful in a powercut as all receivers fail safe as off. Terminals are quite small, easier to wire fly leads to them and then use Wagos into the ceiling space to replace a ceiling rose. Also worth remembering which downlight you put it behind too ....... ask me how I know ..!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 1 hour ago, tanneja said: I take it you need a receiver linked to the light circuit which listens for the switch radio signal? It is radio and not wifi I am reading? Is the wiring of the receiver a DIY job for the very inexperienced? Does it need to go in the ceiling behind the light? Neutral and live (permanent) in then neutral and live to the light. You can get them with receivers built into the wall switch. They are "radio" but you can get Wi-Fi equipped ones to control via a phone app. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QURW03.html Installation instructions under Technical at the link above. The only thing that would make them better is built in spring clamp instead of screw terminals. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 Quinetic now available in matt black: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QUWS1B.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZacP Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 How much do things cost relatively to a traditional system? Obv a saving on installation time but how much quicker (and by extrapolation cheeper) is it and does that offset the higher unit price? X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, ZacP said: How much do things cost relatively to a traditional system? Obv a saving on installation time but how much quicker (and by extrapolation cheeper) is it and does that offset the higher unit price? X Sh!t loads more expensive. £30 - 40 for a switch with built in receiver or a switch and seperate receiver just to do one light/bank of lights up to 6A. Offset that against no chasing or making good on existing/refurbs and cable saved with whatever method even if you have a service cavity to easily drop cables down. They come into their own for some things in particular. Say a shed where you would like to put the lights on before you leave the house and walk down the garden. Ditto they do flood lights that just need mains in. Stick those on the side of the shed/garage and switch on by remote control! Say you want a switch in a flat roof extension where running cables would be a pita. Another switch on a tiled wall in a kitchen etc, etc. Edited September 25, 2020 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZacP Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 42 minutes ago, Onoff said: Sh!t loads more expensive. £30 - 40 for a switch with built in receiver or a switch and seperate receiver just to do one light/bank of lights up to 6A. Offset that against no chasing or making good on existing/refurbs and cable saved with whatever method even if you have a service cavity to easily drop cables down. They come into their own for some things in particular. Say a shed where you would like to put the lights on before you leave the house and walk down the garden. Ditto they do flood lights that just need mains in. Stick those on the side of the shed/garage and switch on by remote control! Say you want a switch in a flat roof extension where running cables would be a pita. Another switch on a tiled wall in a kitchen etc, etc. So not worth it then! Particularly if you're planning on doing all the low skill laborious tasks of chasing/laying cables etc yourselves? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe16stones Posted October 12, 2020 Share Posted October 12, 2020 (edited) On 23/09/2020 at 19:06, Onoff said: Just use a Quinetic, job done. Use an MK or Varilight grid style Quinetic module if you don't like the big ones. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Manufacturers/Quinetic/index.html Good Evening I just moved in my new (but old!) house and switches are either ill placed or ugly or both.. I've never used a Quinetic before. Does Varilight Grid allow to mix Quinetic modules with standard wired modules? On the other hand, if only Quinetic modules are used in the Varilight Grid, is a back box still required to fit the Grid to the wall? Thanks! Edited October 12, 2020 by joe16stones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted October 12, 2020 Share Posted October 12, 2020 15 minutes ago, joe16stones said: Good Evening I just moved in my new (but old!) house and switches are either ill placed or ugly or both.. I've never used a Quinetic before. Does Varilight Grid allow to mix Quinetic modules with standard wired modules? On the other hand, if only Quinetic modules are used in the Varilight Grid, is a back box still required to fit the Grid to the wall? Thanks! You need to use MK Grid for the modules to match. They also need a back box - 35mm is ideal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 12, 2020 Share Posted October 12, 2020 27 minutes ago, joe16stones said: Good Evening I just moved in my new (but old!) house and switches are either ill placed or ugly or both.. I've never used a Quinetic before. Does Varilight Grid allow to mix Quinetic modules with standard wired modules? On the other hand, if only Quinetic modules are used in the Varilight Grid, is a back box still required to fit the Grid to the wall? Thanks! Look specifically at the Varilight PowerGrid system. The Varilight Quinetic switch modules fit that. https://www.quinetic.co.uk/products/grid-switch-varilight/ https://www.varilight.co.uk/ranges/powergrid-range.php#grid-modules Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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