Soundbloc PB job.

[zoothorn]

35 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Metal corner tape maybe?

 

 

https://www.toolstation.com/plasterboard-corner-tape/p10867?

 

hang on.. are you suggesting A) this is what has been used on my 80's corners, or, are you suggesting B ) this is a method I could have chosen -instead- of my placcy beading? (as you haven't included a quote of my Q in the post before.. it does possibly hint at B ).

 

 

[zoothorn]

37 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

Sure they haven't been skimmed..?? Put a magnet on the corner and see if it sticks.

 

You can get paper tape with a metal edge to it - fold and stick

 

Ok so let me get this right. If you skim a wall, you use metal corners (this is what's suggested by your post here). Understood.

 

But what i don't understand, is whether these metal cnrs is --solely-- applicable to straight edge boards (as Id assume these 80's boards to be)

 

Or, if not & they can be used with taper-edge boards..... if this was a viable alternative corner thing I could have chosen instead of my placcy ones.

 

And onward.. same Q as I put to Onoff, whether this metal corner tape is you suggesting what's possibly been used on my 80's boards, or, whether you're making a suggestion  as to what I could have chosen --insteda-- of my placcy beading (& therefore what I could conceivably go out & buy to use instead).

 

why there's a line underneath.. I have no idea.

[Onoff]

There's many ways to skin this cat. Very likely, in the right hands the beads you already have will be fine. Let's face it, even if you get metal edged tape you'll still be asking a bunch of questions. 

 

I've uses expanded metal corners, plastic and tape. 

 

It's you not the product. 

 

Some filling will be required. The fact you think aka have openly admitted you think the tool you have is too flexy or whatever...how is anybody supposed to magic it into the right tool?

[ProDave]

The issue you face is why I generally don't like "tape and fill" dry lining.  You have a nice flat wall, with tapered edges so you can fill the joints flat, but then you have to put a bead on and kick out the corners.

 

At least with a plaster skim the whole wall gets built out a few mm so you don't get the kick out at the corners.

 

I did the reveals around my velux windows with tape and fill.  I did NOT use a corner bead.  I formed the edges with the fill. It was a tedious job, You had to do one edge, let it try. then file / sand off the excess and do the other edge. Wait for it to dry.  Then improve both edges with another thin coat or 2.  The result was a nice corner with no kick out, but a lot of work and a lot of time, mostly waiting for stuff to dry.  And the corner so formed would not be as robust to knocks and bangs as a corner formed with a bead.

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, ProDave said:

The issue you face is why I generally don't like "tape and fill" dry lining.  You have a nice flat wall, with tapered edges so you can fill the joints flat, but then you have to put a bead on and kick out the corners.

 

At least with a plaster skim the whole wall gets built out a few mm so you don't get the kick out at the corners.

 

I did the reveals around my velux windows with tape and fill.  I did NOT use a corner bead.  I formed the edges with the fill. It was a tedious job, You had to do one edge, let it try. then file / sand off the excess and do the other edge. Wait for it to dry.  Then improve both edges with another thin coat or 2.  The result was a nice corner with no kick out, but a lot of work and a lot of time, mostly waiting for stuff to dry.  And the corner so formed would not be as robust to knocks and bangs as a corner formed with a bead.

 

Ok thanks ProDave: that gives me the full picture I needed. I can progress now. I think a velux being high, could get away with hand-done corners as knocks not likely.. but here I think beading is needed. I even think metal tape isn't the thing to use/ no structure to it, esp for a bedroom & workshop.

 

Ok maybe I need to go your approach, & do a series of thin coats > let dry. Maybe then I'm not tearing my hair out making pass after pass & still seeing xyz showing thru.

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, Onoff said:

There's many ways to skin this cat. Very likely, in the right hands the beads you already have will be fine. Let's face it, even if you get metal edged tape you'll still be asking a bunch of questions. 

 

I've uses expanded metal corners, plastic and tape. 

 

It's you not the product. 

 

Some filling will be required. The fact you think aka have openly admitted you think the tool you have is too flexy or whatever...how is anybody supposed to magic it into the right tool?

 

Yup that's reasonable: in the right hands/ a pro.. this would be done in 2 hours of course. But I'm a novice. Its 3 things me, the tool & the beading tbh.. not just me Onoff! metal tape? no Q's its simply a thin taper to patiently fashion (but with no structure/ rigidity I don't think suitable tbh).

 

The beading is terrible compared to my kitchen type: but I just cannot get it. And I can't afford £50 on the ideal tool (no income in 3+ months now).

 

thanks- zH

[PeterW]

20 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

think a velux being high, could get away with hand-done corners as knocks not likely.. but here I think beading is needed.

leave this to the Plasterers. Do not fit the beads yourself where they are skimming. 

[zoothorn]

1 minute ago, PeterW said:

leave this to the Plasterers. Do not fit the beads yourself where they are skimming. 

 

 No I didn't mean I had a velux/ I don't.. I was just commenting on ProDave's situation being different, hand-done cnrs ok for him up on a high velux.. but not ideal on a window or door cnr for me here.

[zoothorn]

Onoff was right again. Best way to fix seems panel pins (will show thru tho.. & a fallible method going into the very edge of boards softer & easily damaged).. so no fix is perfect. A bigger cnr beady bit is essential: this stuff is claptrap (toolstn).. but best materials are just n/a.

 

Got better at it as I went on, the 10" taping fish flipper working well. Huge sanding now. I cant get on with my mirka sander (dust clogs -maybe moisture- then too heavy to be sucked out it seems), so huge dust my main problem.

 

No-nonsense 10kg plaster is decent/ sanding -thankfully- a breeze.

[zoothorn]

@Onoff hi Onoff or anyone. Could you give thoughts on my last area in my lower room to do: the 'retaining'/ covering 2 block high wall whacked up over the (alarming) exposed earth area below my old wall shallow foundations. Pic: you can just see it LHS.

 

Its back-filled with mortar ~ 6" so pressing a dpm onto the earth side = a long low small shelf. I got plants growing up out from behind the vertical dpm.. fantastic.. god knows what I do about that.

 

Board it over? if so fixing..

 

Ive seen soudal foam specifically to fix board onto block/ brick ( I wonder if soudal LE foam be useable even.. having got 1/2 a can here).

 

Thanks, zH

 

 

[Onoff]

Soudal low exp will fix boards to that as long as you hold the boards in place with something. Blocks, bags of sand etc. gas bottle whatever.

[zoothorn]

4 hours ago, Onoff said:

Soudal low exp will fix boards to that as long as you hold the boards in place with something. Blocks, bags of sand etc. gas bottle whatever.

 

Understood.. so you've never used the soudal board-fix-foam specific stuff? looks pretty similar I must say. Its just the moisture in it & its only adhesion being its paper that concerns me. I got 1 board to do it/ must prep & do it once & right.

 

This plastering-reveals & doors etc is holding me up hugely. Not only hugely time consuming (3x the pB job itself & all the sanding to do yet).. but the plasters taking 3-4 days to dry. I don't understand it. Ive gotta sand, then redo another coat & another few days to dry > start main sanding.. its almost unbearable. I'm sure I'm not doing something right here.

[Onoff]

Yes the specific stuff for sticking boards is excellent. I've used it.  Does what it says on the tin. Thought you didn't want to buy anything else and use that 1/2 can up?

 

 

[PeterW]

37 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

looks pretty similar I must say.

 

It isn't... the board foam sets in about 10 minutes, the standard stuff takes a while longer

[Cambs]

6 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

It isn't... the board foam sets in about 10 minutes, the standard stuff takes a while longer

 

I used this to fix foil backed insulation to blockwork.  It's good stuff and does go off quite quickly.  I think it said on the back of the tin that it'll do 5 or 6 sheets of plasterboard, so about £2.50 a board.

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/dow-insta-stik-expanding-foam-grab-adhesive-gun-grade-750ml/72793 

[PeterW]

That’s the same stuff as the Board Fix one as it’s rapid curing. Think that one is a lot cheaper though than £12/tin

[zoothorn]

2 hours ago, Onoff said:

Yes the specific stuff for sticking boards is excellent. I've used it.  Does what it says on the tin. Thought you didn't want to buy anything else and use that 1/2 can up?

 

 

 

No I was just asking if you've used it, whether it was the ~same product 'rebranded'. So you have used it.. & its not/ got that.

 

So as Ive only 2/3rds of 1 board of pB area (my diddy block 'covering' wall).. it makes sense to up my 1/2 can soudal LE & brace it with s'thing as suggested. saving even £12 helps at the mo. It doesn't have to be perfect here.

 

thanks.

[zoothorn]

Anyone know if putting a loft hatch in (my upstairs room) is feasable to do say next year, IE once ceiling skimmed/ lights in etc?

 

Id like to add one & I realise ideally now is far the best idea.. but my skim job is now ~ imminent (multi finish 4x bags I've bought & plasterer contacted) & I dont want to miss opportunity of him jumping in asap, if I'm faffing doing this addition.

 

Thanks.

[PeterW]

Why do you want or need one ..??

[zoothorn]

4 hours ago, PeterW said:

Why do you want or need one ..??

 

Erm.. good Q. I don't know..!

 

Reason I ask is my spark seems to think a definite good idea (almost a 'no-brainer' in his opinion).. plus I can see that if not, then the loft is sealed: now I wonder if this causes any a future problem? IE if maintenance needed, or, if useable space for storage?

 

As you can tell, as usual I haven't got a clue.

[PeterW]

I would expect the storage is negligible and I can't see why you need access as there is nothing up there that needs servicing..?

[zoothorn]

29 minutes ago, PeterW said:

I would expect the storage is negligible and I can't see why you need access as there is nothing up there that needs servicing..?

 

No I quite agree.. storage is only viable surely if its all boarded/ thin joists too not ideal to nip about ontop of if left as is. He did need access of course to do 1st fix wiring, so we took out a 1/3rd or so pB size bit & up he went.. wondering if he's trying to twist my arm to make his 2nd fix job easier or s'thing.

 

Anyway means I can crack on with the skim if the idea isn't a goodun. Wonder what anyone else thinks of the idea.

[Onoff]

What are your joist spacings, 400, 600mm? At 400 you'd probably want to take a chunk out of the joists and add trimmers. Something like in this guide:

 

https://www.loftshop.co.uk/about/Lofty-Ideas/How-to-install-a-loft-ladder

 

Yours aren't "normal" joist are they from memory?

 

You can buy ready made hatches that are insulated and even have a rubber seal as a nod to minimising heat loss.

[zoothorn]

@Onoff I'm not sure what 'normal' joists are.. mine are surprisingly thin that's all I recall. I think I'm inclined to go with Peter's view.. & just do without. But that's one damn useful link- where you find these..

 

Would you put one in by default then? if there's no maintenace to be done & therefore its not 'neccessary' as Peter eludes to, then the only thing I can think it useful for, apart from storing empty boxes (anything of weight is n/a if thin joists mean anything likely shoved up likely sits on the pB), is access to deal with mice.

[Roundtuit]

If you ever want to sell, a buyers surveyor will probably be interested in looking up there to establish the state of the timber and the amount of insulation. Hopefully you won't need to remove wasps nests or trap squirrels, but I'd put a hatch in...