Soundbloc PB job.

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, PeterW said:

Seriously stop worrying about it, foam the back of the boards and get them fitted. If any of it feels hollow or flexes when it’s dried, drill a 10mm hole in the board, shove the nozzle through the hole and squeaker some more foam in. 

 

 

Ok point taken.. that's a good trick tho/ hadn't thought of that.

 

Peter these sections are a pig of a job.. hence I need to prep as best I can. One's taken most of a day to shape & fit & not even put up. Getting the curve @ top, sorting out the bow in the wall (convex, & sideways as well as up/down), cardboard templates, messing up 1 board with 1st go (as soundbloc is so damn heavy it broke jigsawing my curve).. its an utter sod. Its far from 'just whack it up/ stop thinking'. I'm dreading fitting it.

[zoothorn]

Last leg of the pB job.. one side of this knock-thru area to do (one done LH, with switch in), & lower room low block 'covering wall': I found some damp in old wall render just above.. so need to address this b4 doing this last easy pB job, but before 6 weeks or my soudal adhesive n/g.

 

I had my spark in to do final 2nd fix stuff, & all 11x downlights/ dim switches/ sockets done (& temp powered up/ look great.. tho spots not the right choice in retrospect for my workshop: my fault: the ceiling being so low the 'spread' of the lights I hadn't accounted for.. so the floor's perfectly lit, but the worktops won't be nearly as well lit).

 

Anyway 1 mistake. I marked the wrong position for last downlight in lower room (how Ive no idea/ 3x checked), so 1x 57mm hole drilled by mistake & no cable found above (redrilled it 8" away in the correct position).

 

So I have a 57mm hole in the ceiling to repair/ plug. I've kept the removed pB ~52mm rounds. Advice please chaps.

 

Thanks- zoot.

[Onoff]

4 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Anyway 1 mistake. I marked the wrong position for last downlight in lower room (how Ive no idea/ 3x checked), so 1x 57mm hole drilled by mistake & no cable found above (redrilled it 8" away in the correct position).

 

So I have a 57mm hole in the ceiling to repair/ plug. I've kept the removed pB ~52mm rounds. Advice please chaps.

 

Thanks- zoot.

 

Screw a little bit of timber across the hole, top side with a pb screw either side. Might want to pilot the wood first. Screw the removed "round" to that. Plasterer will skim over it.

[zoothorn]

10 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

Screw a little bit of timber across the hole, top side with a pb screw either side. Might want to pilot the wood first. Screw the removed "round" to that. Plasterer will skim over it.

 

Hi Onoff.. ok get the timber idea. It was already skimmed tho, so not quite as easy a fix-?

[Roundtuit]

Use the same fix, it will just take a bit more time and effort using filler to get a good finish.  You won't be able to see it when you're done and painted.

[Onoff]

8 hours ago, zoothorn said:

 

Hi Onoff.. ok get the timber idea. It was already skimmed tho, so not quite as easy a fix-?

 

No harder to do really. The little "round" will be a tad lower than the skimmed ceiling is all and need filling.

 

No good now but one "cheat" I did, pre skimming, was to fit the round back in and level with the unplastered boards. Two little battens and one central screw to "clamp" it. I then squirted in no nails (or similar) into the gap and let it go off. Once the little batten was removed it's all dead level. The batten(s) become superfluous.

 

 

I've done similar  in a brick wall, filling an old soil pipe hole. Affixed with chemical resin.

 

 

 

 

 

[zoothorn]

On 07/07/2020 at 22:55, Roundtuit said:

Use the same fix, it will just take a bit more time and effort using filler to get a good finish.  You won't be able to see it when you're done and painted.

 

Thanks Roundtuit.. if I get the round in, somehow dead flush & not even 1mm 'up'.. then I only need fill the 3mm circle around it (& the wee hole in middle). So its just a Q of fixing the top bit of timber in.

 

Is your suggestion  to fix the timber bit in.. to screw up thru the skimmed pB > & find a predrilled pilot hole? I'm just seeing the damn thing move up & not being able to 'grab' it with a screw, or find the pilot.

 

I'm wondering if using some pB foam adhesive & pulling the timber bit gently down to fix it flush.. but I can only see a some mothers do 'av 'em disaster.

 

 

 

[PeterW]

Got any no nails or similar adhesive...????

 

Cut a piece of batten 1" longer than the hole is wide.

 

Glue the piece of batten over the centre of the back of the cut out bit of plasterboard so you have a round with 2 "ears"

 

Wait til the glue is dry, then put a screw through the hole in your bit of PB/batten - make it a decent length screw so it just goes into the batten but leaves you plenty to play with.

 

Good blob of adhesive on the "ears" and then feed it up into the cavity using the screw to move it into place. Then use the screw to wiggle/squidge down the adhesive and leave to set.

 

Undo the screw, quick skim of filler and bobs your uncle.

[zoothorn]

@PeterW thanks for that.. get the general gist, I think. So the added centre screw protrudes, for use solely as a grip thingy to gently pull the round 's ears down squishing its gubbins on the topside of ceiling pB. Is that right? must say hadn't thought of how I'd hold the round- good idea (if I'm on board with your idea). Might use some foam pB adhesive then.

[PeterW]

Ok but be careful and don’t move it until the first circle on batten is rock hard. 

[zoothorn]

My next big job, is to address these old wall areas. The knock-thru 'tunnel' Ive pB'd either side, leaves a good 1" depth to fill in deepest bits where the block is.

 

My plasterererer (& spark) suggested I could perhaps use my 1/2+ bag of Thistle Bonding I got left for it. What do you think? I also got some multifinish left too.. but the old wall (white here) is a pretty rough surface of render + top coat of contoured paint. Last job is to tidy this wall up so I can get signed off & get the room useable/ not quite sure of options for this in the long run: it depends on the winter: if I get huge cold in from this wall (I expect as much).. I might have to consider lining it. But a next year job.

 

 

[zoothorn]

Can anyone lend advice on tackling these damaged areas L & R of the knock-thru (esp deep ~1" or so on the R) ?

 

thanks, zoot.

[PeterW]

base coat of bonding plaster up to 10mm thick. Let it dry and add another. Then skim / texture a top coat over the top.

[Onoff]

5:1 pva the area, whilst still tacky get the bonding in there in a couple of layers. Leave a few mm under then multifinish.

Edited July 16, 2020 by Onoff
"pva" not "of a" ?

[zoothorn]

Hi Peter/ Onoff.. thanks for this info:

On 16/07/2020 at 11:02, PeterW said:

base coat of bonding plaster up to 10mm thick. Let it dry and add another. Then skim / texture a top coat over the top.

 

@Onoff & Peter. Ok great that's a plan then will pv&a 5-1 areas 1st up.. I've left the bonding & multifinish 1/2 bags a couple of weeks now, but poly-bagged & clip-closed. Are they still useable do you think?

 

Only just seen these replies. thx chaps

[Onoff]

Old plaster goes off quicker then a quick thing. I don't know how old is old though?

 

I know you can retard plaster setting with Cream of Tartar - I've done it and it works a treat. A boon if you're a newbie to spreading it and slow anyway. 

 

Don't know if it'd give you a bit more time on old stuff?

 

 

[zoothorn]

48-3/4 is old.

 

What the fkn dickens is a cream of tartar!! actually cream tart & on, I can't understand a thing tbh! haha. I think you're pulling my plonker & drunk on that strong cider or Onoff-moonshine-?

[Onoff]

Not a wind up. It was an @nod tip and it works a treat:

 

 

Got mine in Tesco:

 

https://www.tesco.com/groceries/en-GB/products/282995951

[nod]

21 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Not a wind up. It was an @nod tip and it works a treat:

 

 

Got mine in Tesco:

 

https://www.tesco.com/groceries/en-GB/products/282995951

That’s the one 

great for hot weather 

[zoothorn]

23 hours ago, nod said:

That’s the one 

great for hot weather 

 

 I'm sorry I'm totally lost as to what on earth the suggestion is tho. Hot weather-? (I think this is -the- most mystified I've been on BH yet.. & that's sayin summink).

 

Ok leaving the baking bemusement aside.  @Onoff I need go back to the filling of my ceiling 57mm hole/ just about to do.. but I can't work it out. Ok I stick my piece of wood with the 'round' attatched to it, into the hole fine. One 'ear' a good 2" long. But the other ear: to get this in I need to push the round farthest one way to get it in (even diagonally 'upwards' to get the max ammount of other 'ear' in.. but even doing this diagonally 'up' the screw (& the round itself) prevents this ear from being any more than ~ 1.5cm.. & this is my problem.

 

Or am I being stupid/ thinking wrong? surely I need a good 1" of ear each side, on which to glue & pull down (via PeterW's screw in centre of the round) to bond with the ceiling pB. Approx only 0.75cm of ear this one side (once Ive centred the round) will surely not be enough to bond to the ceiling pB one side.

 

 

[Onoff]

Hot weather...plaster type products will set quicker because the moisture evaporates. Additives such as Cream of Tartar, aka tartaric acid, aka used in commercial retarder products, delay the set. This is not a wind up.

 

0.75mm or a good 1" long ears won"t matter a carrot. Stop over thinking and get on with it. 

[zoothorn]

On 09/07/2020 at 16:56, PeterW said:

Got any no nails or similar adhesive...????

 

Cut a piece of batten 1" longer than the hole is wide.

 

Glue the piece of batten over the centre of the back of the cut out bit of plasterboard so you have a round with 2 "ears"

 

Wait til the glue is dry, then put a screw through the hole in your bit of PB/batten - make it a decent length screw so it just goes into the batten but leaves you plenty to play with.

 

Good blob of adhesive on the "ears" and then feed it up into the cavity using the screw to move it into place. Then use the screw to wiggle/squidge down the adhesive and leave to set.

 

Undo the screw, quick skim of filler and bobs your uncle.

 

 Hi Peter- maybe you can help. I'm following exactly the steps suggested here, but I cannot feed it into the cavity without one ear being only a paltry 1.5cm (any longer.. & it won't all go up in the cavity). Once I centre the round, this equates to just 0.75 cm of "ear" one side to fix to the ceilinginside pB.

 

One "ear" afaict can be any length. But the opposite "ear" can only be tiny, or the whole shebang won't go in. The only way I can see this is possible, is if the batten is fixed 1st > then the 'round' is pushed up & fixed to it, once batten is glued set.

[Onoff]

4 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

 Hi Peter- maybe you can help. I'm following exactly the steps suggested here, but I cannot feed it into the cavity without one ear being only a paltry 1.5cm (any longer.. & it won't all go up in the cavity). Once I centre the round, this equates to just 0.75 cm of "ear" one side to fix to the ceilinginside pB.

 

One "ear" afaict can be any length. But the opposite "ear" can only be tiny, or the whole shebang won't go in. The only way I can see this is possible, is if the batten is fixed 1st > then the 'round' is pushed up & fixed to it, once batten is glued set.

 

1.5cm is fine. Stop wasting your and other people's time.

[zoothorn]

15 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

1.5cm is fine. Stop wasting your and other people's time.

 

Onoff if I can't understand something I ask. That's the -opposite- of wasting my time (& if it takes a jiffy for you to help then that too is the -opposite- of wasting time).

 

If I have just 0.75cm pulling down (not 1.5cm if the round has to be pulled back to be centred).. the pressure is too much on a tiny area of pB. It must have a 2nd ear of decent length. Its just how to get it in.

 

If you know, please why not just say instead of moaning at me-?

 

I also cannot understand if I get the round in, how I fill the 'round' area either side of the batten.

Edited July 22, 2020 by zoothorn

[Onoff]

6 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

Onoff if I can't understand something I ask. That's the -opposite- of wasting my time (& if it takes a jiffy for you to help then that too is the -opposite- of wasting time).

 

If I have just 0.75cm pulling down (not 1.5cm if the round has to be pulled back to be centred).. the pressure is too much on a tiny area of pB. It must have a 2nd ear of decent length. Its just how to get it in.

 

If you know, please why not just say instead of moaning at me-?

 

I also cannot understand if I get the round in, how I fill the 'round' area either side of the batten.

 

I do know and have told you as has Peter. As long as it grips by just enough the no nails will do the rest once it goes off. The round area gets filled by the filler (odd that, eh?) you're going to smear over it once the no nails has set.