Soundbloc PB job.

[zoothorn]

Hi. I'm all set to wallboard my top room (walls only in here) & seen YT clips for reminders. BCO told me to soundbloc "& only 5kgs more".. but a shock lifting & 44kgs so BCO wrong: almost 2x weight of std 12.5mm. So the extra weight has introduced a BIG factor.

 

1st thing I need to ask, is the gap at board-to-floor. Hidden by skirting I guess, but is there a std 1cm maybe to aim for? I guess the gap needed in order to wiggle/ shift board to get it up dead-flush to ceiling? assuming this meeting is the priority, placing my 1st board.

 

Thanks- zoot.

Edited May 26, 2020 by zoothorn

[zoothorn]

Actually I need to check my basic board plan before anything. Pics of room below (french doors midway between 2 pics as it were).

 

The easier wall to start is 2nd pic @ only 2.1m high. So what I've done is look for studs @ W 1200mm & find some twds middle. So I can get two full W boards to fill most of middle area.. leaving a 460mm gap LHS, & 900mm gap RHS. 

 

Do I start with one of these two full boards? or, from the LH corner with say the 460mm offcut > then a full W board?

 

thanks- zoot schmoot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Russell griffiths]

Cut an off cut off plasterboard 12.5mm chuck it on the floor, stand board on that to give you 12.5 mm gap, bingo job done. 

Normal plasterboard on upstairs walls, not sound block. 

[zoothorn]

Just now, Russell griffiths said:

Cut an off cut off plasterboard 12.5mm chuck it on the floor, stand board on that to give you 12.5 mm gap, bingo job done. 

Normal plasterboard on upstairs walls, not sound block. 

 

Understood- that makes sense. Had to go soundbloc.. only 12.5mm available. Wish it was all normal jeepers.

 

May I ask a last-minute panic Q: it is ok to use my boards upright config on these studs yes? (portrait).

 

thanks. z

[zoothorn]

Hi chaps. Can anyone lend a hand..

 

Now weather's broken its last prep for this job. I need to establish where I start boarding from, which board to place 1st. Walls.

 

I find 1200mm width's between studs, only twds the middle of my walls. Do I start with these (2 in my case) full boards.. & fill in the remaining offcut/ smaller area (farthest L, & farthest R) afterwards?

 

Or, should I start at the corner with the offcut, then the two full boards, then the other smaller W offcut?

 

thanks- zoot.

 

 

[PeterW]

Start with the full board and then cut the pieces to fit either side

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, PeterW said:

Start with the full board and then cut the pieces to fit either side

 

Ok thanks Peter- makes sense/ did think likely.

 

One other thing I'm not sure on is the tricky bits, IE window areas, using T-Edge boards.

 

Ok I have one window's reveal area conveniently exactly 1200mm. But, Ive lined reveal with 27mm insulated pB.. so the adjacent boards will stop short of this added 27mm each side. Can they be covered over ok with a corner-frame thing & filled?

 

Also the area to the L of this window up to a stud to fix to, is just short of 1200mm (by 30mm) so I can just have a bit of useable taper/ fine: but trouble is once Ive nipped this 30mm off, I only have a single (38mm) stud for this pB edge to join -plus- the adjacent 260mm W offcut to join too.

Edited June 3, 2020 by zoothorn

[PeterW]

gonna need pictures here...!!

[zoothorn]

1 minute ago, PeterW said:

gonna need pictures here...!!

 

Too dark for flash/ too much power to take a flash pic.

 

(But even with a pic, without an explanation.. its just a silver insulated wall with a window: it wouldn't be of any additional help, would it?).

[zoothorn]

Ok let me try & simplify. Imagine that I haven't lined my window reveals. I pB up to the window reveal edges. This is a hyperthetical situation.

 

Then, I add the 27mm ins-pB lining to window reveals. So you can see all of the 27mm ins-pB edges.

 

Ok: can the finishing filling work be carried out ok now, or, is the fact that the 27mm ins-pB edges are visible (& not covered over) mean the finishing work cannot be carried out?

 

 

 

 

 

 

[zoothorn]

@PeterW ok pic from before here. Window not yet lined.

 

The W of the reveal, is a very convenient 1200mm. So here I could have happily cracked on, pB'ing above & below the reveal with a full-width board (cutting across/ sticking another section above window).. & the adjacent board L& R will meet at the reveal corner point. Perfect.

 

But onwards from this pic, I lined the reveal with 27mm ins-pB (top one irrelevant because there's no taper on this lower edge/ my pB comes down & hides the 27mm lining edge).

 

So the addition of 27mm ins-pB to the L & R reveals, due to the placement of the join-point of the pB -exactly on the timber cornerpoint seen in this pic- means I cannot hide these two added 27mm edges with pB.

[zoothorn]

Ok I can cross bridge later.

-------------------------------------------

 

In the meantime: What to do with socket cables protruding into room in the PIR? surely not by pushing them back into the PIR hole I made/ impossible/ too thick - stiff/ not enough room to do.

 

So do I just mark the pB, put it up by forcing the cables into the PIR (to find/ chase out after).

 

Or do I make a 4cm hole in pb, lift near then somehow thread cables thru whilst holding pB > lift pB into position?

 

thanks, zoot.

[PeterW]

23 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Or do I make a 4cm hole in pb, lift near then somehow thread cables thru whilst holding pB > lift pB into position?

 

Do this

[zoothorn]

21 hours ago, PeterW said:

 

Do this

 

Yes this seems to be best way. Got most of top room done/ just tricky areas to do.

 

The pB wall with the window pic above, on its LHS meets the original very in-out wall (IE old stone). I'd like to keep this wall, not dot & dab & pB it.. maybe even sand-blast render off to expose stonework, very last job.

 

How can I copy the profile/ relief onto the pB edge for a neat 'meeting' to the wall?

[Onoff]

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

How can I copy the profile/ relief onto the pB edge for a neat 'meeting' to the wall?

 

Put the pb against the old wall, as near as it'll go.

 

Hold a small disc of wood against the profile and put a pencil the other side. Move block down, following the wall and keeping the pencil tight to the little block. That'll transfer your profile to the pb edge.

 

Cut with a coping saw, jig saw etc. Fill later with flexible decorators caulk.

 

You did similar in the kitchen I recall.

[zoothorn]

30 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Put the pb against the old wall, as near as it'll go.

 

Hold a small disc of wood against the profile and put a pencil the other side. Move block down, following the wall and keeping the pencil tight to the little block. That'll transfer your profile to the pb edge.

 

Cut with a coping saw, jig saw etc. Fill later with flexible decorators caulk.

 

You did similar in the kitchen I recall.

 

Hi Onoff.. actually I didn't do so in kitchen (not very in-out compared to this) but I recall your same suggestion.

 

Ok I can get the approximate gist of it, but the 'disc' (& how exactly I can obtain the correct boards' width) I'm not following.

 

Is there a term for this I can google-?

[dpmiller]

"scribing"

[zoothorn]

18 hours ago, dpmiller said:

"scribing"

 

Ok thanks dpm. So I can scribe with a block the wall profile contour, at the blocks' width out from the wall > onto my pB edge.

 

So then, in my case, is it then just (by eye) transferring that wiggly line back -the blocks' width- & redrawing?

 

You see I have a designated pB width to hit, precisely. Its the LHS edge to scribe. On the straight RH edge, I have a full board already in place next to it. Also I only have only 15mm of stud left to attatch to (a single stud serving as junction of 2x boards.. not easy to get the full board next to it to land ~bang on midway the whole way up: I had to trim 1cm off & more off btm than top/ a pig of a job: I do not want to have to trim -anything- off my scribed board on its other RH 'straight' edge too).

 

Thanks, zoot

 

[andyscotland]

13 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

Ok thanks dpm. So I can scribe with a block the wall profile contour, at the blocks' width out from the wall > onto my pB edge.

 

So then, in my case, is it then just (by eye) transferring that wiggly line back -the blocks' width- & redrawing?

 

You see I have a designated pB width to hit, precisely. Its the LHS edge to scribe. On the straight RH edge, I have a full board already in place next to it. Also I only have only 15mm of stud left to attatch to (a single stud serving as junction of 2x boards.. not easy to get the full board next to it to land ~bang on midway the whole way up: I had to trim 1cm off & more off btm than top/ a pig of a job: I do not want to have to trim -anything- off my scribed board on its other RH 'straight' edge too).

 

Thanks, zoot

 

 

You could get a big bit of cardboard box and scribe onto that. Then cut it to shape, put it back in position and double check it and mark (or measure) where the straight, non-wall, edge overlaps with the plasterboard.

 

Then you can put the plasterboard on the floor, put the card on top lined up to the correct width and use it to mark/cut the PB.

 

Failing that, scribe the wall to the plasterboard as above, then put the plasterboard on the floor and use the same block to follow the line and scribe the offset wall line in the correct position.

 

Also be careful with your plasterboard screws if you only have 15mm stud, I think better to put them in at a slight angle than to put them too close to the edge of the board.

 

[PeterW]

Ok you are trying to do it backwards. No easy way unless you cut a piece to the largest gap then scribe based on that. 
 

quickest and easiest way - run a board the right height up to the rough wall. Make a scribing wheel - 50mm piece of hardboard with a hole for a pencil will do - and run it top to bottom following the wall. You have your wall profile. Cut along that line with a coping saw or jigsaw.  
 

Mark the ceiling and floor at the edge of your last board so they are easily seen then slide the cut edge of the board against the wiggly wall. Mark your pencil marks from the ceiling and floor onto the wiggly edge board. 
 

Remove the board and cut a straight line between your pencil marks and fit the board into place - it will fit the gap. 
 

 

[zoothorn]

3 minutes ago, andyscotland said:

 

You could get a big bit of cardboard box and scribe onto that. Then cut it to shape, put it back in position and double check it and mark (or measure) where the straight, non-wall, edge overlaps with the plasterboard.

 

Then you can put the plasterboard on the floor, put the card on top lined up to the correct width and use it to mark/cut the PB.

 

Failing that, scribe the wall to the plasterboard as above, then put the plasterboard on the floor and use the same block to follow the line and scribe the offset wall line in the correct position.

 

Also be careful with your plasterboard screws if you only have 15mm stud, I think better to put them in at a slight angle than to put them too close to the edge of the board.

 

 

Wow.. I can understand all of that! that must be a 1st. Thanks.

 

Searching for card box. But idea of just scribing "back" again with the block, with board laying on ground.. & 3x checking at intervals along before cutting, seems like as flloproof a method as I can get.

 

15mm. Yes I've had to contend with a few single studs to meet two boards. But worst at the junction of the ceiling line at the one "collared" angled ceiling side area (my builder has pB'd the ceiling), & my wall pB: here Ive got no viable stud at all (bar 2mm) for my wall pB along top, so you can press pB in here.. innevitably cracks, but at least will be hidden by a bookshelf all over this wall. Ive tried to push my pB hard up to press the builders' ceiling angle pB section 'bows' up.. but nigh on impossible for me & many gaps (ceiling line not perfectly level not helping).

 

More builder shortfalls/ job done badly I'm sure of it. Many goldcscrews used (clearly ran out of drywalls), protruding heads, & big spaces between screws all over ceiling, & gaps the wind gets thru. I can't redo it tho.

[Onoff]

You could just do a series of marks say 50mm apart, vertically down the edge of the last board fixed - where you only have 15mm to fix to.

 

Draw a vertical line on the foiled pir as close as you can to the wobbly wall. Mark that out vertically too, every 50mm. 

 

Then just measure at each point from last board fixed on the rhs to the wall. Transfer those measurements to your pb working from the rhs edge. The closer the marks the more accurate the fit. 

 

Join the dots. Cut to that. Acrylic decorators filler thereafter.

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, Onoff said:

You could just do a series of marks say 50mm apart, vertically down the edge of the last board fixed - where you only have 15mm to fix to.

 

Draw a vertical line on the foiled pir as close as you can to the wobbly wall. Mark that out vertically too, every 50mm. 

 

Then just measure at each point from last board fixed on the rhs to the wall. Transfer those measurements to your pb working from the rhs edge. The closer the marks the more accurate the fit. 

 

Join the dots. Cut to that. Acrylic decorators filler thereafter.

 

Ok understand that too- cheers. I can't seem to get going on this tho.

 

@PeterW  I like this idea but for making the hardwood wheel thing! ok so a 50mm wheel across, a hole in middle for pencil @ 25mm then? or put pencil on outer side of wheel 50mm away from wall.. I guess either in principle.

 

So say I have pencil in middle @25mm from wall. Do I sit the board, before scribing, 25mm away from wall? or push board up to wall > scribe > then somehow re-scribe it (I guess by eye?) back 25mm.

[zoothorn]

2 hours ago, PeterW said:

quickest and easiest way - run a board the right height up to the rough wall. Make a scribing wheel - 50mm piece of hardboard with a hole for a pencil will do - and run it top to bottom following the wall. You have your wall profile. Cut along that line with a coping saw or jigsaw. 

 

Ok I'm trying to get the gist of this. I thought I had a method ready but now I'm confused again. I know why maybe: one element's possibly been forgotten in the suggestions, I think: that is I have to go with the determined RHS edge already set (bc its a taper-edge board).. IE I cannot get a profile on > cut this wiggly line. then cut to width on its RHS edge to fit my other board already in place RHS.

 

That's why maybe you are saying I'm thinking it backwards-?

 

 

[Onoff]

5 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

Ok I'm trying to get the gist of this. I thought I had a method ready but now I'm confused again. I know why maybe: one element's possibly been forgotten in the suggestions, I think: that is I have to go with the determined RHS edge already set (bc its a taper-edge board).. IE I cannot get a profile on > cut this wiggly line. then cut to width on its RHS edge to fit my other board already in place RHS.

 

That's why maybe you are saying I'm thinking it backwards-?

 

 

 

How many clear suggestions do we collectively need to make before you get it?

 

"I get it...no I don't...yes I do...I'm going to ignore that so I can keep this thread going..."