Critique my final design (almost?) ready for Planning Permission...

[puntloos]

4 hours ago, dpmiller said:

what's the point of the pocket door between Bed4 and the spiral stair? Surely the handrail will preclude acces to the stair...

 

I didn't realise, very good point. 

The point was to have a fun secret passage for the kid to get into the loft.

 

Perhaps the handrail can be movable somehow?

[puntloos]

3 hours ago, ProDave said:

I would not use a round spiral staircase in a square "room"  the old round peg in a square hole situation creating awkward corners you will never get to for cleaning etc.  Make a square "spiral" staircase out of timber in the same way a timber stair can wind round a corner, it will just keep on winding like a spiral stair, but with all the treads going out to the corners.

 

Then the space under it could be a cupboard accessed from bed 4.

Got it, great point. As I said elsewhere the spiral staircase rabbit hole has been interesting.. on the surface it seems like a good idea but a ton of 'small annoyances' to figure out. I did like the idea of using some space under.

 

Edited May 25, 2020 by puntloos

[eandg]

31 minutes ago, puntloos said:

 

I didn't realise, very good point. 

The point was to have a fun secret passage for the kid to get into the loft.

 

Perhaps the handrail can be movable somehow?

Have you considered direct access from their rooms/built in wardrobes up fireman's poles or climbing walls, which would be more fun and less restrictive in terms of space?

[puntloos]

4 hours ago, DevilDamo said:

What are your floor to ceiling heights?

 

"Depends". Ground floor is 2m75 - 1st we're more flexible, we left it up to the architect, I think she picked 2m60 but embarassing I actually don't know. 

 

Quote

Why is the roof to the single storey rear element so high up? Is it to do with ceiling heights hence my comment above?

 

Possibly? We are very keen to have high ceilings (it is one of our core reasons for self-building in the first place.. english default seems to be 2m40..)

 

Quote

There may be a slight access/design issue with the door between the Landing and Bedroom 3 assuming the front projected part is still to have the lower eaves?

 

Nicely spotted- this is something I'd need to check since indeed not possible to see just from the floorplan.

 

Quote

The line of the wall between the Landing and Bedroom 3 doesn’t appear to be shown correctly. The Landing side of that wall lines through with the internal face of the front wall to  Bedroom 2 but does not line through with the internal face of the front wall to Bedroom 5.

I see what you mean, this is probably down to my crappy design skills - I have very little idea of what separates a good design from a bad one (at that detail level, at least).

If the original arch drawing exhibits the same flaw my architect is not doing her job. 

 

Quote

 

If you’re going to use the loft as storage, then you can do what you like to access it. The roof could also be designed with a slightly simpler structure. If however you’re going to use the loft for anything else that resembles a habitable area, it will need to meet BR’s in terms of structure, fire and thermal. If you are going to use the loft as habitable, you’d normally look at having four Bedroom’s on the first floor and a fifth/Games room on the top floor.

 

Yeah I'm kinda 'torn inbetween' as you can tell. But I'm working under the assumption that a spiral can meet BR. 

 

Quote

 

Who has designed this house because in another post, you mentioned your wife is the architect or were you referring to that as her making the decisions and having the final say?

 

Effectively we have employed proper architects to put our ideas to paper 'properly' - those plans are here. What I then do is 'trace' these designs over into my computer and work on ideas, features etc. The architect's drawings will of course be the authoritative ones. (at this point we're mainly trying to nail down the exact window locations as dictated by the internals)

Edited May 25, 2020 by puntloos

[AliG]

Someone else may know the regs better than me, but will permanent access to the roof create fire regulation issues and mean that all the doors below have to be fire doors or at least the access has to be sealed off in some way?

[puntloos]

2 hours ago, bassanclan said:

I'm not 100% clear where your dining table is, if in the garden room access is a little awkward for people coming from the open plan living area.

 

You mean people would have to squeeze past the island? Yes you're right. I guess it's a result of a bunch of requirements coming together, in particular we wanted to be able to separate the dining (smells & mess) from kitchen (smells and mess) from each other, and from the living room, at least 'somewhat'. 

 

2 hours ago, bassanclan said:

Would the kitchen ar the far right work better, with more natural light and better outlook?

 

I haven't clearly indicated but the house loses light fairly early, The garden room is designed to catch the last rays even if the main living room lost the light already. If anything the kitchen/garden is the brightest place in the house. Which is also why the cinema projector screen is *not* there. you're suggesting the cinema be pretty bright..

 

 

[DevilDamo]

56 minutes ago, AliG said:

Someone else may know the regs better than me, but will permanent access to the roof create fire regulation issues and mean that all the doors below have to be fire doors or at least the access has to be sealed off in some way?

Correct. Three-storey houses would need to meet the BR’s in terms of structure, fire and thermal so a decision would need to be made sooner rather than later because with it being a new build, you’d make those provisions now. Any loft/second floor that provides any habitable accommodation would need to meet those requirements.

[Mr Punter]

It would be better and safer to make the hallway and stair protected.  I would not fancy jumping out of a first floor window over 4.0m to the ground in the event of a fire breaking out on the ground floor.

 

Have you considered over height or even storey height internal doors on the ground floor?  They may look quite impressive with little additional cost.  Big double doors opening into the hall would resolve the fire protected stair and also give the option of dividing the space / providing privacy so that your delivery person does not get to see the whole living area.

[eandg]

1 hour ago, DevilDamo said:

Correct. Three-storey houses would need to meet the BR’s in terms of structure, fire and thermal so a decision would need to be made sooner rather than later because with it being a new build, you’d make those provisions now. Any loft/second floor that provides any habitable accommodation would need to meet those requirements.

Are those requirements any more onerous than putting in fire doors and ensuring means of escape from the habitable space? Asking as I'd like the option of converting loft space later (with space for stairs already designed in) and if I could allow for a relatively small initial outlay then I'd want to do that. 

[puntloos]

 

Thanks tony, many questions. Let me answer them with various versions of 'shrug'

2 hours ago, tonyshouse said:

What are the Target U values for walls, floor, ceilings, fenestration

we'd like to go for Passivhaus-ish. No attachment to the paperwork/cert (although perhaps it's a selling point, dunno). - so 0.15 overall?

 

2 hours ago, tonyshouse said:

target air tightness

Never thought about it. PH

 

2 hours ago, tonyshouse said:

, have you done a thermal model

No. That should be done during detail design not planning permission, no? We did have a passivhaus builder take a quick look and his main concern was the garden room - the architect had skylight there.

2 hours ago, tonyshouse said:

looking at overheating in summer and/or informing smaller windows,

Yeah I was wondering about window size in the other topic.. I'm not even sure aesthetically if 'massive windows' work, 

 

2 hours ago, tonyshouse said:

shading of windows

Main idea is awnings every sun facing ground floor window, and windows with built-in blinds on top (rough example below)

 

2 hours ago, tonyshouse said:

and reducing dangerous for overheating West facing glazing.

 

So far no concerns from the PH guy, but I have drawn the windows a bit larger now so might have to do the check again

 

2 hours ago, tonyshouse said:

 

integral garage is what I call an in-house winter cooling system so would try to design that out 

 

Yeah not too crazy point, but there's benefits to having a 'cool room' that's not sun-facing, I'm less worried about winter than summer. 

 

2 hours ago, tonyshouse said:

how big does an office need to be ?

 

Ha fair point, the label is incorrect - should be 'sitting room' that has office functionality. We're not quite sure how to furnish/wall that space yet.

[DevilDamo]

29 minutes ago, eandg said:

Are those requirements any more onerous than putting in fire doors and ensuring means of escape from the habitable space? Asking as I'd like the option of converting loft space later (with space for stairs already designed in) and if I could allow for a relatively small initial outlay then I'd want to do that. 

Yes, more or less. Fire doors to all rooms that provide the protected staircase, mains linked with battery back up smoke detectors to Halls and Landings and a heat detector to the Kitchen area.

[puntloos]

3 hours ago, AliG said:

A few things.

Bring it!

 

3 hours ago, AliG said:

1. Mentioned before, but it is even worse now with the thicker walls. That corner between the island and the pocket door to the living area is both narrow and awkward.

Huh, I missed that point from you earlier, will need to review if I skipped over anything else (sorry). It's a good shout, will need to examine.

 

3 hours ago, AliG said:

It would be even worse with a chair at the island. The space around the island is just too small. When you open the door to a dishwasher, it sticks out almost 80cm, you won't be able to pass between it and the island, you won't be able to pass between an open cupboard door and the bottom of the island.

Frankly the kitchen design was a bit slapdash since I was expecting a 'pro' to do this at some point. I did take some values of 'minimum distance' from various recommendation sites, but indeed they might've missed that dishwasher point.

 

3 hours ago, AliG said:

If the plan is to put the dining table in the garden room, then the space between the hall and patio doors seems wasted and I would move the packet doors back in line with the other side of the stairs to give you almost an extra metre in the kitchen.

Yeah, I'm thinking the same thing. To be clear the home cinema is the part that has very few compromises but that bit of movement seems.. reasonable.

 

3 hours ago, AliG said:

 

2. You will not be able to use the projector there. I have a 5 m long room painted dark brown, including the ceiling, with a little slot window and the projector is OK in the daylight on a 2.9m wide image. In my old house with a slightly smaller screen, white ceilings and larger windows it was impossible to watch the projector in the daylight. And this was much closer to the screen. The combination of light coloured room, patio doors and projector will not work.

 

To be clear, that depends on the projector. - https://www.barco.com/en/product/udx-w32

I'm not at all expecting this to work well during the day, and will have a 55" TV behind the roll-down projector screen for daytime viewing. Shutters, curtains and suchlike for the evening. 

 

FWIW I've also sent my design of the house to a cinema team to review.. 

 

3 hours ago, AliG said:

3. Spaces of 600mm and 500mm either side of a bed are too narrow. By the time the duvet hangs over the sides you can knock another 100mm off that.

Depends where? If you want to go for a feeling of space and luxury, sure. But if you're a kid, or if you want to economize, then I disagree. Case in point, in my current house the master bed is 450mm away from full-height built-in wardrobes(!!), and day-to-day this actually is not a problem at all! (once you want to use the wardrobes, different situation!)

 

3 hours ago, AliG said:

 

4. Now that you have made the master bedroom larger, I would move the door to being a normal swing door next to bedroom 2

Funny, I actually don't remember why I made it sliding in the first place! 

The key rationale in general is that with 2 parents waking up at different times, having sound/light separation between bed and bath/walkin is important.

 

 

3 hours ago, AliG said:

and close in the wardrobe more. Sliding doors are a pain to use relative to normal doors.

The big sliders are to 'by default'(open) have a large amount of spacious feeling but it's a good shout I want a quality design that's easy and silent.

3 hours ago, AliG said:

It is not quite clear though as the render appears to have wardrobes there. You have a lot of room in the walk in, I would try to keep all the wardrobes in there.

Yeah sorry the render is slightly older than the floorplan. The walkin is a 3.3m wall of 550mm full height wardrobes.

3 hours ago, AliG said:

 

5. The floorpan shows windows on 3 sides of bedroom 3. With the already limited space, a window or door on every wall will make placing furniture difficult.

 

Interesting point, heh as said before I know next to nothing about practical window placement, size, space, etc. But bedroom 3 is a bedroom in name only, if anything it'll probably be a gym or office. Perhaps not a bad idea to close up the window behind the bed though.

 

3 hours ago, AliG said:

 

6. I would make the sink area smaller in the master ensuite so it does not impinge on the entrance area in front of the shower.

Maybe have it start where the number '743' is displayed then? 

[puntloos]

3 hours ago, eandg said:

Have you considered direct access from their rooms/built in wardrobes up fireman's poles or climbing walls, which would be more fun and less restrictive in terms of space?

 

Yeah we thought of a ladder/climbing wall directly into the loft.. but of course we need some 'proper' access too.. 

Of course that 'proper' access could then be a fold-down ladder thing.. but.. eh.. 

[puntloos]

1 hour ago, Mr Punter said:

It would be better and safer to make the hallway and stair protected.  I would not fancy jumping out of a first floor window over 4.0m to the ground in the event of a fire breaking out on the ground floor.

 

What's your definition of 'protection'? Can we e.g. fireproof the entire hallway somehow? Does it mean stronger walls etc?

 

1 hour ago, Mr Punter said:

Have you considered over height or even storey height internal doors on the ground floor?  They may look quite impressive with little additional cost. 

 

Interesting idea, no we haven't thought of that one. (plus I'm 6'4" so clearly it's unsafe for me to jump around in my house, this has to be fixed!)

 

1 hour ago, Mr Punter said:

 

Big double doors opening into the hall would resolve the fire protected stair and also give the option of dividing the space / providing privacy so that your delivery person does not get to see the whole living area.

As opposed to pocket? Hmm.. I could be convinced, yes. (although of course the whole look-through is also kind of nice, impressive feeling of space and depth..)

[AliG]

TBF I think you have made life a little harder for yourself than you need to.

 

It is unlikely your outside walls would be 500mm thick. For a brick/block skinned timber frame you are looking at around 400mm for 0.14 U-Value and 450mm for 0.11 U-Value.

 

You have also drawn the walls around the upstairs hall and either side of the bathroom as 200mm thick. In some cases I think it is to get the sliding doors inside the walls, but for example, if the wall to the left of bedroom 2 was 100mm thick and the outside wall 400mm then the bedroom could be a better width.

 

19 minutes ago, puntloos said:

Funny, I actually don't remember why I made it sliding in the first place! 

 

I probably wasn't clear enough, it is the slide into the master bedroom that I was talking about doing away with The sliders into the dressing room are fine, but as a door into a main room a normal door is better, it would fit next to the bedroom 2 door. Also if you want to make the roof habitable space, it will have to be a self closing fire door, something hard to do with a sliding door.

 

To do it you would have to make the entrance to the dressing room narrower so that the door doesn't slid into the hall wall, then you can put a normal room door there.

 

I have been trying to draw it up, so let me come back with a sketch.

23 minutes ago, puntloos said:

I'm not at all expecting this to work well during the day, and will have a 55" TV behind the roll-down projector screen for daytime viewing. Shutters, curtains and suchlike for the evening.

 

I was going to ask about that, that is what we had in the cinema room in the last house. That was a dedicated cinema room and what happened was we never opened the curtains and never used the TV. The rear speakers can go in the ceiling so you don't have to worry about them, I would probably build a false wall where the screen is and embed the TV and speakers into it.

[puntloos]

1 minute ago, AliG said:

TBF I think you have made life a little harder for yourself than you need to.

 

It is unlikely your outside walls would be 500mm thick. For a brick/block skinned timber frame you are looking at around 400mm for 0.14 U-Value and 450mm for 0.11 U-Value.

 

Hmm, the passivhaus guy I spoke to was pretty explicit, but of course he is likely running on a combination of 

- easier for him

- Space for services

- Experience with certain solutiosn

 

But also just in general it's clearly easier to make rooms larger, should the space turn out to be more, than smaller. It seems safe to stick with 500ish and take any gains as we go?

 

1 minute ago, AliG said:

You have also drawn the walls around the upstairs hall and either side of the bathroom as 200mm thick. In some cases I think it is to get the sliding doors inside the walls, but for example, if the wall to the left of bedroom 2 was 100mm thick and the outside wall 400mm then the bedroom could be a better width.

True, I should re-examine briefly. Of course walls with services shoudl be a bit thicker.. noise is a big thing too for us. Home cinema straight below etc.. (side walls matter at least a little too)

 

1 minute ago, AliG said:

 

 

I probably wasn't clear enough, it is the slide into the master bedroom that I was talking about doing away with The sliders into the dressing room are fine, but as a door into a main room a normal door is better, it would fit next to the bedroom 2 door. Also if you want to make the roof habitable space, it will have to be a self closing fire door, something hard to do with a sliding door.

 

To do it you would have to make the entrance to the dressing room narrower so that the door doesn't slid into the hall wall, then you can put a normal room door there.

 

I have been trying to draw it up, so let me come back with a sketch.

Would be great, I'm struggling a little to follow off words alone. 

 

1 minute ago, AliG said:

 

I was going to ask about that, that is what we had in the cinema room in the last house. That was a dedicated cinema room and what happened was we never opened the curtains and never used the TV. The rear speakers can go in the ceiling so you don't have to worry about them

 

Ah, no, speakers need to be at ear-height when you're sitting.   but I did debate putting them in the walls, the problem with that proposition is that if you buy new speakers they might not fit.. so the current default is hanging them off the wall as per normal, but I could be convinced.

 

1 minute ago, AliG said:

 I would probably build a false wall where the screen is and embed the TV and speakers into it.

 

Uh.. have you seen my speakers? no.. the front speakers are a FEATURE

 

For reference my kid is pretty much exactly 1m tall. 

 

- The speaker to the left will be a side speaker (minus the stand), rears are slightly larger but similar. The sub in the back is about 50cm tall and the big ones are 1m50..

 

and of course i will have speakers in the ceiling, but that's dolby atmos for you ?

 

[puntloos]

WHEW

 

You guys(m/f) are great

 

Took me an hour+ to go through everything. So much stuff to think about, great advice, many things I agree with, some I am a bit stubborn, I know, but please know I very much appreciate all of your comments so far, keep em coming. 

 

In general, please keep me true to the core philosophy:  Grand living spaces, and compromises on everything else. In particular we expect the kitchen, living, hall and kid's room to be the highest use, everything else is utilitarian and can be tight, small, etc.

 

(and now.. please continue to tell me where I failed )

Edited May 25, 2020 by puntloos

[oldkettle]

I can't agree more with what @AliG said about moving the doors to align with the right side of the stairs. I personally would make the island a little shorter as well to leave more circulation space around. We are trying to have 1200mm everywhere (and we are both much shorter than you are ?). 

 

In general, it feels really annoying that in a house so large there is even a slight problem with creating a great layout. My wife and I have just spent two days trying to plan a kitchen (she thought it would have been fun ?

) in a 4m by 4m space and we've failed miserably. 

[puntloos]

43 minutes ago, oldkettle said:

I can't agree more with what @AliG said about moving the doors to align with the right side of the stairs. I personally would make the island a little shorter as well to leave more circulation space around. We are trying to have 1200mm everywhere (and we are both much shorter than you are ?). 

 

In general, it feels really annoying that in a house so large there is even a slight problem with creating a great layout. My wife and I have just spent two days trying to plan a kitchen (she thought it would have been fun ?

) in a 4m by 4m space and we've failed miserably. 

 

Ha, you said it. Thing is, even though I have no right to complain, the features I'm hoping to achieve typically only start showing up in much larger houses. Given my footprint (10x13 on 27x15) you don't normally have a grand hall and an 8x5 livingroom...

 

This house is too big for its britches, as they say.. but I might be able to pull off those britches most of it..

 

We're very close. Help me, buildhub, you are my only hope!

Edited May 25, 2020 by puntloos

[AliG]

I have been playing around with the layout for a few hours but, I have a couple of questions.

 

1. What equipment do you want in that utility area in the garage? The ASHP would have to be outside. Is there any reason it is not part of the heated envelope of the house? If it is so it could be turned into a full garage in the future that would be very difficult by the time you have the MVHR etc in there.

 

2. As the kids bedroom has an en suite and you have a shower and bath in your en suite, do you want a shower and a bath in the main bathroom as it may help to arrange the rooms upstairs if you can lose the shower or bath from the main bathroom, but equally that may be what you want.

 

Edited May 25, 2020 by AliG

[puntloos]

37 minutes ago, AliG said:

I have been playing around with the layout for a few hours

 

Ooh cool..

37 minutes ago, AliG said:

but, I have a couple of questions.

Sure

37 minutes ago, AliG said:

1. What equipment do you want in that utility area in the garage? The ASHP would have to be outside. Is there any reason it is not part of the heated envelope of the house?

The passivhaus builder gave me a rule of thumb that they would appreciate 3m of 'utility wall' to fit the arsenal of heatingcoolingcirculating stuff. I think you're right that at least one of the devices probably needs to be against the outside wall or else it'd be a ducting hassle.

 

37 minutes ago, AliG said:

If it is so it could be turned into a full garage in the future that would be very difficult by the time you have the MVHR etc in there.

 

To be honest I've kind-of given up on the whole full garage thing although I might not have admitted it to myself yet. I still think a carport would be a great idea but I don't think the space is ever going to store a proper car.

 

37 minutes ago, AliG said:

 

2. As the kids bedroom has an en suite and you have a shower and bath in your en suite, do you want a shower and a bath in the main bathroom as it may help to arrange the rooms upstairs if you can lose the shower or bath from the main bathroom, but equally that may be what you want.

 

 

"Eh" for our own use we'd just want the bath in master ensuite. For kid, shower is fine although he might start to enjoy baths.

Perhaps a showerbath could be a doable compromise in the family bathroom? 

[puntloos]

7 minutes ago, puntloos said:

To be honest I've kind-of given up on the whole full garage thing although I might not have admitted it to myself yet. I still think a carport would be a great idea but I don't think the space is ever going to store a proper car.

 

 

 

To clarify, my dream would be having:

- A 'room' that is outside of the thermal envelope

- At least 3x5m

- water + power (washers, freezers)

- Thin wall somewhere halfway down, to shield internals from elements

- Car port for the rest - open to air

 

And separately, elsewhere, the permanently fixed 'heating/cooling/water storage' stuff

 

-> If someone *really* needs it to be a garage, it can be turned into one. (resale, or maybe when I hit midlife, I need a ferrari..)

 

But at this point the only builder we spoke to so far says that even a small 3x3ish basement for that permanent heating stuff will cost a *serious* amount of £ - depending of course on water table etc, the estimate for a 3x3 basement would be 72000 gbp, so I guess that solution is out... (unless they are somehow waaay off but they were fairly reasonable in most other estimates..)

[AliG]

The reason I asked is if you have a 2m ish carport but then make the wall between it and the utility the outside wall of the house it frees up a bit of space for the kitchen due to moving the thick insulated wall. It would also nicely line up with the bedroom wall above making the build easier. The carport area would just be like a small porch then.

 

If you put a hot water tank and MVHR in that utility space it will never be possible to convert it into a garage, so why not just make it part of the house now.  I think you are compromising the house for something that won’t happen. Also the door from the kitchen to that space would have to be an insulated outside door or you will lose considerable heat from the kitchen. 
 

I am not an expert on ASHPs but they have to be in an area with unobstructed airflow. It is just about conceivable it could go in the open carport at the front but ideally it would be at the left hand side of the house. However you only have 1m width there and an ASHP might be 400mm wide with various  clearances required depending on the model. Just something worth noting.

 

 

Edited May 25, 2020 by AliG

[puntloos]

26 minutes ago, AliG said:

The reason I asked is if you have a 2m ish carport but then make the wall between it and the utility the outside wall of the house it frees up a bit of space for the kitchen due to moving the thick insulated wall. It would also nicely line up with the bedroom wall above making the build easier.

Interesting point. Implemented this to see how that works.

26 minutes ago, AliG said:

The carport area would just be like a small porch then.

 

Are you saying to include part/most of the 'garage' into the insulated envelope?

26 minutes ago, AliG said:

If you put a hot water tank and MVHR in that utility space it will never be possible to convert it into a garage, so why not just make it part of the house now.  I think you are compromising the house for something that won’t happen. Also the door from the kitchen to that space would have to be an insulated outside door or you will lose considerable heat from the kitchen. 

Yup, as noted above I'm close to giving up on the whole "It could be a garage" story. It might have some other impact though, since I'm required to provide 3 parking spaces on the property, but I think it should be fine.

 

I guess I just would want one more quote how much a small basement for this heating equipment would cost.. I heard a LOT lower in this forum

 

26 minutes ago, AliG said:

I am not an expert on ASHPs but they have to be in an area with unobstructed airflow. It is just about conceivable it could go in the open carport at the front but ideally it would be at the left hand side of the house. However you only have 1m width there and an ASHP might be 400mm wide with various  clearances required depending on the model. Just something worth noting.

 

Well, hm.. I think it would make sense to have the ASHP not obstruct the path to the ... ha now I'm reconsidering.. but basically as you can see in my updated drawing, the external part could just sit out of the way to the front.. but perhaps I value access to the rear more. (to be clear, there's a clear path to the rear on the other side of the house..

 

[AliG]

OK, my quick sketch before bed, sorry for the lined paper.

 

If you use normal 100mm wide stud walls, then you have 7.5m across the back, less 200mm of wall. Also the wall between the bathroom/en suite and the landing being 100m frees up 100mm to make the rooms 3.5m long.

 

If you reduce the size of the shower in the main bathroom (or do away with it) and cut the main bathroom to a still decent 1.9m wide then you can put the master en suite where the walk in is and the walk in where the en suite is. As the walk in is narrower then this gives you more room for the spare room which can also have a wardrobe.

 

There is plenty of scope in those spaces for bathroom design, I just put something down quickly. I should have drawn the main bathroom the other way round so the pipework backs on to the pipework on the en suite. In the en suite I put the WC in a little space of its own and made a walk in shower, but there is plenty of space to do other things. All of our showers are walk in, no doors to clean and more space efficient. Putting the door into the middle of the ensuite and not the end usually lets you use the space better.

 

 

Edited May 25, 2020 by AliG