joe90 Posted February 20, 2020 Share Posted February 20, 2020 It’s a circular bread knife (the vid did not show PIR). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToughButterCup Posted February 20, 2020 Share Posted February 20, 2020 18 minutes ago, scottishjohn said: yes but not for PIR What's different about cutting PIR? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpd Posted February 20, 2020 Share Posted February 20, 2020 13 minutes ago, AnonymousBosch said: What's different about cutting PIR? Pretty sure it would jam in PIR as it’s much more compressed. probably work on thinner sheets but anything above 25mm might be a struggle.. but without trying it who knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted February 22, 2020 Author Share Posted February 22, 2020 Thanks for suggestions: as I'm on a budget I'll rule out buying a circ saw new blade, tho I'd sure like one. I'll try my jigsaw it might do half the thickness, then a handsaw.. if not do all with it. I've just got to make a high-edged guide rail for my magic pink saw then can jump in. Ok once ive cut my tall sections, Ive then got to cut it to navigate around cables. Is it a Q of trimming off a 45* from back edge to allow say a good 1" clearance for cables? or can the PIR go right up to, just nip say 1/2" of the lower back edge corner off? I recall Onoff giving me a b*ll*king for running my ext cable in a wee trench I cut in my kitchen 25mm PIR (redundant on tues Onoff: my spark's fitting a proper outside socket out from the back of my socket as you suggested ~yr ago). And Ive got socket cables going across up 500mm H from floor (in upper room), meeting together in middle: I have to drill a hole in the PIR for these to protrude thru I think. I need to check the upper room sockets -minimum- height they can be: if anyone can concur with.. is 450mm min to bottom of socket the std min figure? (if so I'm going 500mm to centre, to be safe). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 22, 2020 Share Posted February 22, 2020 On 20/02/2020 at 08:49, AnonymousBosch said: What's different about cutting PIR? PIR is "gritty" to cut. The Bacho wave form saw (similar form to the circular saw blade link I posted) makes a worse job on PIR than the Celotex toothed one which tbh is really fantastic in terms of ease and accuracy. The Bacho is harder work imo. Not too bad on 50mm but wanders more on 100mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted February 22, 2020 Share Posted February 22, 2020 @zoothorn you don’t need to use a powered saw of any type. You have about 20 cuts to do, use a handsaw, do it outside, and you will be fine. Keep it simple Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted February 22, 2020 Author Share Posted February 22, 2020 1 hour ago, PeterW said: @zoothorn you don’t need to use a powered saw of any type. You have about 20 cuts to do, use a handsaw, do it outside, and you will be fine. Keep it simple Yup. I think it makes perfect sense to Peter (esp if capable chap in Onoff's how-to clip uses a saw). Doing outside.. don't like the idea in this damn wind, might take me off on a zoot magic PIR carpet adventure. I was thinking measure my gap upstairs, cut in lower room (its all stacked down here), bring each bit up & fettle to fit. What do you think? To cut outside means the dust strewn over my gdn & into wee stream.. feels a bit wrong tbh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpd Posted February 22, 2020 Share Posted February 22, 2020 It’s worth brushing the cut faces before taking it from one location to another to lessen the spread of the dust, if the weather is even half decent it’s well worth doing it outside, the dust and gubbins will soon disappear. I am aware of my environment but there are limits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJNewton Posted February 22, 2020 Share Posted February 22, 2020 I always run the vacuum over the cut faces - it makes all the difference to the amount of dust that gets everywhere, and avoids the face-full of it when tapping a perfectly fitting board home! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpd Posted February 22, 2020 Share Posted February 22, 2020 42 minutes ago, MJNewton said: I always run the vacuum over the cut faces - it makes all the difference to the amount of dust that gets everywhere, and avoids the face-full of it when tapping a perfectly fitting board home! Ha that awful puff if dust as to bang a tight fitting bit home and realise to late you took your glasses of ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted February 23, 2020 Author Share Posted February 23, 2020 Ok thanks for the tips- now wind's finally back to normal I can consider doing outside. Will defo brush each bit off. Done my guide rail so I'm just about set to go. Can anyone just tell me beforehand tho: about the socket cables & light switch cables touching the insulation: is the idea to clear a good gap/ channel for them, or just a minimal ammount of clearance-? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted February 26, 2020 Author Share Posted February 26, 2020 Been too windy to do outside, so I've cut in lower room/ brush off outside & take thru house up stairs etc, but I've blitz-done the top room. I do need to pull out a section fwds tho: is there any way to do? its not mega-tight or I'd not ask.. ie it can be pulled fwd, if I can get a grip on it. thanks zoot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpd Posted February 26, 2020 Share Posted February 26, 2020 I just jab a couple of long sharp knives into it about 2-300mm apart and about 100mm deep at an angle towards each other and pull Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpd Posted February 26, 2020 Share Posted February 26, 2020 Wiggle and pull if really tight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJNewton Posted February 26, 2020 Share Posted February 26, 2020 I use a bit of silver tape to pull boards forward. If I'm unlucky and end up tearing the surface foil the same tape is suitable for the repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted February 26, 2020 Author Share Posted February 26, 2020 5 minutes ago, MJNewton said: I use a bit of silver tape to pull boards forward. If I'm unlucky and end up tearing the surface foil the same tape is suitable for the repair. I was thinking of gaffa earlier MJN.. but for pulling the foil off, as it is stuck in a bit. I think I'll try Cpd's idea 1st then try your approach. thanks chaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted February 27, 2020 Author Share Posted February 27, 2020 Coming along well, I'm 2/3rds into job.. godawful dust/ I cannot believe this stuff's allowed, I feel bad just brushing off outside after Ive sawn it up inside.. I could never cut outside with all the plastic on the news (& I find on my walks, & stop to p/u along our stunning b-roads here). Anyway, can anyone confirm for me the minimum B.Regs height for sockets off the floor? I was told "450mm to bottom of socket", by my electrician, for my upper room. But the lower ground floor room.. is it the same figure? thanks- zoot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJNewton Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 7 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Anyway, can anyone confirm for me the minimum B.Regs height for sockets off the floor? I was told "450mm to bottom of socket", by my electrician, for my upper room. But the lower ground floor room.. is it the same figure? Yes, although note that it is 450mm to 1200mm to the centre line of the socket. (Ref: Section 1.18 of Approved Document M) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted February 27, 2020 Author Share Posted February 27, 2020 22 minutes ago, MJNewton said: Yes, although note that it is 450mm to 1200mm to the centre line of the socket. (Ref: Section 1.18 of Approved Document M) Hi MJN. Sorry I'm not understanding "..to 1200mm to the centreline of the socket". All I can understand from your reply is one sole word "yes".. but the rest is incomprehensible. All I know, is my electrician has said the sockets need to be a certain minimum distance off the floor. I'm just tring to establish what this is to concur with his figure of 450mm. Surely there is just one answer (one figure) to the question-? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 1 hour ago, MJNewton said: Yes, although note that it is 450mm to 1200mm to the centre line of the socket. (Ref: Section 1.18 of Approved Document M) Except Part M 1.18 is contradictory! Says to the centre line but shows the lower sockets with the bottom edge at 450mm! Just put bottom edge of sockets no lower than 450mm, top edge of switches no higher than 1200mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dreadnaught Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 How is "adequate provision" interpreted for sockets within that height range? As I read it, not all sockets have to be in that zone, just an adequate number. But what does that mean? Does that in practice mean all of them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 Just now, Dreadnaught said: How is "adequate provision" interpreted for sockets within that height range? As I read it, not all sockets have to be in that zone, just an adequate number. But what does that mean? Does that in practice mean all of them? No, not all. Think a high level tv socket, fan isolator switch etc. Not a lot of point in saying you need a fan switch at low level for a person in a wheelchair to isolate the fan that they couldn't get to anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJNewton Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 (edited) 18 minutes ago, Onoff said: Except Part M 1.18 is contradictory! Says to the centre line but shows the lower sockets with the bottom edge at 450mm! You're reading too much into the diagram. It is showing the minimum and maximum heights, that's all. The fact the socket shown happens to have its bottom edge just above the minimum line is neither here nor there. It could equally have been half way up. Similarly with the lightswitch it is shown some inches below the maximum height but is not to be taken literally. Edited February 27, 2020 by MJNewton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dreadnaught Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 5 minutes ago, Onoff said: No, not all. OK I see. I was also thinking of floor sockets (adjacent to a sofa located in the middle of the living room). I assume they are allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJNewton Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 (edited) 49 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Hi MJN. Sorry I'm not understanding "..to 1200mm to the centreline of the socket". All I can understand from your reply is one sole word "yes".. but the rest is incomprehensible. All I know, is my electrician has said the sockets need to be a certain minimum distance off the floor. I'm just tring to establish what this is to concur with his figure of 450mm. Surely there is just one answer (one figure) to the question-? The one word answer is 'yes'. I was just explaining that there is also a maximum height too, and the arguably minor detail that it is measured to the centre of the socket and not the bottom as your electrician said. Edited February 27, 2020 by MJNewton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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