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Timber Carport & Driveway


Onoff

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Got my duct in. Nom. 600mm deep trench, 60mm duct.

 

IMG_20201025_141850037.thumb.jpg.2494aa6ea3be5410cb3c5cd7a2255c66.jpg

 

Need to decide now on whether to put in bases for the future car port. Maybe I make some sacrificial OSB boxes and set them level. Thinking 600mm cubes.

 

IMG_20201025_141832611.thumb.jpg.6d157e2d69c9a8a59ea3bde121afa65e.jpg

 

 

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1 minute ago, joe90 said:


More than adequate IMO, what are you going to set in the concrete to hold the posts or are you going to bolt them down?

 

Just cast them level and solid. Drill and resin fix to suit later on. Some form of U channel to take chunky wooden posts. 

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I’ve been watching some videos on YouTube of a guy who builds garden rooms professionally.  For foundations he’s developed a system whereby he’s created a DIY pile system much cheaper than the ground screws I was on about.   He pours cement into holes & encases M24 rods, with big square washers near the bottom.  Then he bolts a u channel onto the top of the rod.    
 

may be worth a look maybes not for your project.

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On 25/10/2020 at 18:53, Bozza said:

I’ve been watching some videos on YouTube of a guy who builds garden rooms professionally.  For foundations he’s developed a system whereby he’s created a DIY pile system much cheaper than the ground screws I was on about.   He pours cement into holes & encases M24 rods, with big square washers near the bottom.  Then he bolts a u channel onto the top of the rod.    
 

may be worth a look maybes not for your project.

 

Got a link to the video?

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I'm filling in and not going to yet worry about car port plinths.

 

When I started to dig my trench I first had to remove a poorly laid line of block paving bedded on a very weak mix. They all came out, more lifted tbh, easily and clean. This paving line sort of defined the edge of the drive. The rest of the drive comprises fairly compact small black stones & bits of "tar", some quite large as in fist size. Think of a load of rejected road materials having been dumped and flattened out. It's definitely not tarmac that's broken up over the years. The worst of it is the rusty nails that's meant many a punctured tyre over the years! The previous owner would it appears empty his wood boiler ash pan on the drive, the ash to fill in the rough drive surface. 

 

Now I'm filling the trench in I'm wondering whether to maybe stop 6" short of the surface and fill with Type 1. My worry is if I just fill with the excavated clay/soil, when it gets really wet down here this winter I'll just be churning a rut in the trench line everytime we drive over it. 

 

Filling in today, only thing I have to compact the dirt as I go is a 16lb sledge hammer used as a tamper. The trench at its narrowest is only about 4" wide, the width of a mattock blade.

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Bozza said:

https://youtu.be/RIWH1b9Kgl4
 

Try this 

 

he’s got loads of good videos if link above Doesn’t work his names is William Griffin 

 

Watching it now. He's a bit rough imo. Those off cuts of channels for shoes to support the base will just rust to Hell. No washer under the nut holding it all down either.

 

For me what you don't see is just as important.

 

PIR between joists so nice cold bridging. Constant product placement too. Like he's Colin Furze! ?.

 

I'd make a neater job.

 

Good luck to him mind doing the videos. 

 

(That Amy can come and help do mine anytime).

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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

 

Watching it now. He's a bit rough imo. Those off cuts of channels for shoes to support the base will just rust to Hell. No washer under the nut holding it all down either.

 

For me what you don't see is just as important.

 

PIR between joists so nice cold bridging. Constant product placement too. Like he's Colin Furze! ?.

 

I'd make a neater job.

 

Good luck to him mind doing the videos. 

 

(That Amy can come and help do mine anytime).

Yeah the observation re channels rusting was said on a YouTube comments but someone else said they’re off the ground and not exposed, so unlikely to.  If I were using that system I would probably use protective paint though, or galvanised channels. 

 

I thought his builds were pretty neat TBH.

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30 minutes ago, Simtronic said:

Steel set in concrete doesn't rust it has protective qualities, they never protect re-bar in building foundations. The more feet the more the load is spread. I would say he has done this before and will work fine.

 

His steel isn't set in concrete! ?

 

Steel set in concrete can rust but it's to what degree. It's why all the concrete art deco buildings had issues. You can (and should) mitigate this of course. A little rust won't hurt. As I understand it concrete is initially a protective alkaline medium but over time can turn acidic and affect the steel.

 

Of course what he's done will work fine, nobody said it wouldn't. It's just people's perception of what is attention to detail. I wouldn't cut a through housing with  a chainsaw for instance. I just wouldn't, it offends me. Overall I liked his video, seemed honest about what he's doing even if not all his watchers agree on a few points. Having to point out to his worker to double nail the 5x4 roof joists make you wonder if they would have if he wasn't around. His acceptance of cold bridging through the joists...why not mitigate than in the walls and at the sole plate junction? Comparing the hybrid roof to a SIPS panel and saying they'll be no gap because the PIR is pushed tight against the OSB3 roof...hmmm. Doesn't need to be much of a gap to get moisture there. 

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Thanks onoff

I knew the alkaline protected I didn't realise it only lasts so long. Some  art deco buildings are still sound. My comment was about the base that had steel square plates set into the concrete, I didn't watch all the videos. I just wanted to see how he anchored it to the ground, looked quite effective. I agree insulation board and Osb is nothing like as good as a Sip and cold bridging unnecessarily is a sin in my eyes.

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9 hours ago, Simtronic said:

Thanks onoff

I knew the alkaline protected I didn't realise it only lasts so long. Some  art deco buildings are still sound. My comment was about the base that had steel square plates set into the concrete, I didn't watch all the videos. I just wanted to see how he anchored it to the ground, looked quite effective. I agree insulation board and Osb is nothing like as good as a Sip and cold bridging unnecessarily is a sin in my eyes.

 

We've been doing similar "stud anchor" plinths in my game up on roofs for the last 70 years to keep cranes and window cleaning rigs on roofs. I did similar for the kid's "treehouse" base here (no tree).

 

If in uplift then the studs and plates get connected back to the slab reinforcing steel or go through the slab and are plated underneath. (Sometimes resin or expanding anchors into the slab are used). The big difference is our studs are stainless steel. We also take great care to seal up where the stud enters the concrete block. The tops of our plinths are min. 150mm off the finished roof and lead capped. Pre 1981 when our BS made st/st a requirement many installs used plain steel. The necking/waisting where water has got in, sat and rotted the stud but below the line of sight, has to be seen to be believed. 

 

Bottom line is a lot of people have really nice garden rooms by the looks of it even if some of us might do it different on here. 

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I've filled in the cable trench I excavated but tbh I think long term I'm just going to churn up the clay if I carry on. (Before there was line of bricks on hardcore). 

 

IMG_20201101_134919878.thumb.jpg.6a0e7a924d35380408543be3f5efee05.jpg

 

IMG_20201101_134933681.thumb.jpg.3f5faa9990839763049dd60f3028a7fa.jpg

 

Thinking to fill with something like Type 1 or something "asphalt" based. This is is what's on the rest of the drive but I don't know what it is, any ideas? Looks like it's been tipped and rollered.

 

IMG_20201101_134957782.thumb.jpg.a7946311aa20d548338a797799caedc0.jpg

 

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  • 3 months later...

Got a length of 3-core, 2.5mm SWA down the circa 13m of 60mm smooth bore duct along with some screened, duct grade Cat-5e plus a random, screened 4-core flex for luck. Might drag it all out and put the two small ones in their own 20mm ducts.

 

Pita is the gate end 32mm corrugated I've got going up inside my brick pillars. SWA is just so stiff in this cold. Printed a wee ball to go in the end and act as a guide.

 

IMG-20210208-WA0017.thumb.jpeg.1676bf70081ee616fb8e8a978631b4b7.jpeg

 

IMG-20210208-WA0019.thumb.jpeg.d6e61b485a8ef5638b54194a53aac6f9.jpeg

 

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2 hours ago, Roys said:

Keep the coil of SWA in the house next to a radiator for 24hours before you try to use it, cold SWA is horrible to work with warm SWA is a dream.

 

I did! Seen it "snap" on site before...

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