Onoff Posted October 23, 2020 Author Share Posted October 23, 2020 1 hour ago, joe90 said: other things got in the way Wot he said. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 Got my duct in. Nom. 600mm deep trench, 60mm duct. Need to decide now on whether to put in bases for the future car port. Maybe I make some sacrificial OSB boxes and set them level. Thinking 600mm cubes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 2 minutes ago, Onoff said: Thinking 600mm cubes. More than adequate IMO, what are you going to set in the concrete to hold the posts or are you going to bolt them down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 1 minute ago, joe90 said: More than adequate IMO, what are you going to set in the concrete to hold the posts or are you going to bolt them down? Just cast them level and solid. Drill and resin fix to suit later on. Some form of U channel to take chunky wooden posts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozza Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 I’ve been watching some videos on YouTube of a guy who builds garden rooms professionally. For foundations he’s developed a system whereby he’s created a DIY pile system much cheaper than the ground screws I was on about. He pours cement into holes & encases M24 rods, with big square washers near the bottom. Then he bolts a u channel onto the top of the rod. may be worth a look maybes not for your project. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 27, 2020 Author Share Posted October 27, 2020 On 25/10/2020 at 18:53, Bozza said: I’ve been watching some videos on YouTube of a guy who builds garden rooms professionally. For foundations he’s developed a system whereby he’s created a DIY pile system much cheaper than the ground screws I was on about. He pours cement into holes & encases M24 rods, with big square washers near the bottom. Then he bolts a u channel onto the top of the rod. may be worth a look maybes not for your project. Got a link to the video? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 27, 2020 Author Share Posted October 27, 2020 (edited) I'm filling in and not going to yet worry about car port plinths. When I started to dig my trench I first had to remove a poorly laid line of block paving bedded on a very weak mix. They all came out, more lifted tbh, easily and clean. This paving line sort of defined the edge of the drive. The rest of the drive comprises fairly compact small black stones & bits of "tar", some quite large as in fist size. Think of a load of rejected road materials having been dumped and flattened out. It's definitely not tarmac that's broken up over the years. The worst of it is the rusty nails that's meant many a punctured tyre over the years! The previous owner would it appears empty his wood boiler ash pan on the drive, the ash to fill in the rough drive surface. Now I'm filling the trench in I'm wondering whether to maybe stop 6" short of the surface and fill with Type 1. My worry is if I just fill with the excavated clay/soil, when it gets really wet down here this winter I'll just be churning a rut in the trench line everytime we drive over it. Filling in today, only thing I have to compact the dirt as I go is a 16lb sledge hammer used as a tamper. The trench at its narrowest is only about 4" wide, the width of a mattock blade. Edited October 27, 2020 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozza Posted October 27, 2020 Share Posted October 27, 2020 1 hour ago, Onoff said: Got a link to the video? https://youtu.be/RIWH1b9Kgl4 Try this he’s got loads of good videos if link above Doesn’t work his names is William Griffin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 27, 2020 Author Share Posted October 27, 2020 2 hours ago, Bozza said: https://youtu.be/RIWH1b9Kgl4 Try this he’s got loads of good videos if link above Doesn’t work his names is William Griffin Watching it now. He's a bit rough imo. Those off cuts of channels for shoes to support the base will just rust to Hell. No washer under the nut holding it all down either. For me what you don't see is just as important. PIR between joists so nice cold bridging. Constant product placement too. Like he's Colin Furze! ?. I'd make a neater job. Good luck to him mind doing the videos. (That Amy can come and help do mine anytime). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozza Posted October 27, 2020 Share Posted October 27, 2020 1 hour ago, Onoff said: Watching it now. He's a bit rough imo. Those off cuts of channels for shoes to support the base will just rust to Hell. No washer under the nut holding it all down either. For me what you don't see is just as important. PIR between joists so nice cold bridging. Constant product placement too. Like he's Colin Furze! ?. I'd make a neater job. Good luck to him mind doing the videos. (That Amy can come and help do mine anytime). Yeah the observation re channels rusting was said on a YouTube comments but someone else said they’re off the ground and not exposed, so unlikely to. If I were using that system I would probably use protective paint though, or galvanised channels. I thought his builds were pretty neat TBH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted October 27, 2020 Share Posted October 27, 2020 Yes rough as fook that was. By the time he did that base you could have installed an insulated slab. What video is this Amy bird in I had a good look @Onoff but couldn’t find her ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simtronic Posted October 27, 2020 Share Posted October 27, 2020 Steel set in concrete doesn't rust it has protective qualities, they never protect re-bar in building foundations. The more feet the more the load is spread. I would say he has done this before and will work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 27, 2020 Author Share Posted October 27, 2020 30 minutes ago, Simtronic said: Steel set in concrete doesn't rust it has protective qualities, they never protect re-bar in building foundations. The more feet the more the load is spread. I would say he has done this before and will work fine. His steel isn't set in concrete! ? Steel set in concrete can rust but it's to what degree. It's why all the concrete art deco buildings had issues. You can (and should) mitigate this of course. A little rust won't hurt. As I understand it concrete is initially a protective alkaline medium but over time can turn acidic and affect the steel. Of course what he's done will work fine, nobody said it wouldn't. It's just people's perception of what is attention to detail. I wouldn't cut a through housing with a chainsaw for instance. I just wouldn't, it offends me. Overall I liked his video, seemed honest about what he's doing even if not all his watchers agree on a few points. Having to point out to his worker to double nail the 5x4 roof joists make you wonder if they would have if he wasn't around. His acceptance of cold bridging through the joists...why not mitigate than in the walls and at the sole plate junction? Comparing the hybrid roof to a SIPS panel and saying they'll be no gap because the PIR is pushed tight against the OSB3 roof...hmmm. Doesn't need to be much of a gap to get moisture there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simtronic Posted October 27, 2020 Share Posted October 27, 2020 Thanks onoff I knew the alkaline protected I didn't realise it only lasts so long. Some art deco buildings are still sound. My comment was about the base that had steel square plates set into the concrete, I didn't watch all the videos. I just wanted to see how he anchored it to the ground, looked quite effective. I agree insulation board and Osb is nothing like as good as a Sip and cold bridging unnecessarily is a sin in my eyes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 28, 2020 Author Share Posted October 28, 2020 9 hours ago, Simtronic said: Thanks onoff I knew the alkaline protected I didn't realise it only lasts so long. Some art deco buildings are still sound. My comment was about the base that had steel square plates set into the concrete, I didn't watch all the videos. I just wanted to see how he anchored it to the ground, looked quite effective. I agree insulation board and Osb is nothing like as good as a Sip and cold bridging unnecessarily is a sin in my eyes. We've been doing similar "stud anchor" plinths in my game up on roofs for the last 70 years to keep cranes and window cleaning rigs on roofs. I did similar for the kid's "treehouse" base here (no tree). If in uplift then the studs and plates get connected back to the slab reinforcing steel or go through the slab and are plated underneath. (Sometimes resin or expanding anchors into the slab are used). The big difference is our studs are stainless steel. We also take great care to seal up where the stud enters the concrete block. The tops of our plinths are min. 150mm off the finished roof and lead capped. Pre 1981 when our BS made st/st a requirement many installs used plain steel. The necking/waisting where water has got in, sat and rotted the stud but below the line of sight, has to be seen to be believed. Bottom line is a lot of people have really nice garden rooms by the looks of it even if some of us might do it different on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 1, 2020 Author Share Posted November 1, 2020 I've filled in the cable trench I excavated but tbh I think long term I'm just going to churn up the clay if I carry on. (Before there was line of bricks on hardcore). Thinking to fill with something like Type 1 or something "asphalt" based. This is is what's on the rest of the drive but I don't know what it is, any ideas? Looks like it's been tipped and rollered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jimbo Posted November 1, 2020 Share Posted November 1, 2020 Looks like it could be road tailings. The tarmac they rip up when they are re doing the road surface. Black gold if you can get hold of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted November 1, 2020 Share Posted November 1, 2020 Road scalpings, what the farmers around here use on their tracks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 1, 2020 Share Posted November 1, 2020 I used scalpings on my drive and various paths (they were resurfacing the road near me and I paid £50 a lorry load ?) brilliant stuff fir the price (if you can get it!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 1, 2020 Author Share Posted November 1, 2020 I'll give these people a ring I see they do planings: https://www.sheernessrecycling.co.uk/our-products One of their associated companies is Borough Green Sand Pits just down the road from me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 8, 2021 Author Share Posted February 8, 2021 Got a length of 3-core, 2.5mm SWA down the circa 13m of 60mm smooth bore duct along with some screened, duct grade Cat-5e plus a random, screened 4-core flex for luck. Might drag it all out and put the two small ones in their own 20mm ducts. Pita is the gate end 32mm corrugated I've got going up inside my brick pillars. SWA is just so stiff in this cold. Printed a wee ball to go in the end and act as a guide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roys Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 Keep the coil of SWA in the house next to a radiator for 24hours before you try to use it, cold SWA is horrible to work with warm SWA is a dream. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 9, 2021 Author Share Posted February 9, 2021 2 hours ago, Roys said: Keep the coil of SWA in the house next to a radiator for 24hours before you try to use it, cold SWA is horrible to work with warm SWA is a dream. I did! Seen it "snap" on site before... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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