vfrdave Posted October 7, 2019 Author Share Posted October 7, 2019 I have had confirmation this morning that the tap unit has no NRV internal on it. However I had an epiphany this morning, the bath tap unit is in the wall and just has copper blanking tails currently ie no cartridges or taps. In my mind this essentially is allowing the cold and hot water to flow wherever it wishes. I need to install the cartridges on the bath tap and see what testing reveals. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfrdave Posted October 11, 2019 Author Share Posted October 11, 2019 Just to keep this current, my epiphany seems to be right. Fitted cartridges this morning (it's only taken me 5 days to get to this) and normality seems to reign. Still the multibloc to whip out at some point thanks to @Nickfromwales solid advice and guidence. Next question related to this how or with what should I trim these tiles to get the taps fitted fully? Tiles for hot tap and spout are a few mm to proud to the threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfrdave Posted October 11, 2019 Author Share Posted October 11, 2019 9 hours ago, vfrdave said: Next question related to this how or with what should I trim these tiles to get the taps fitted fully? Tiles for hot tap and spout are a few mm to proud to the threads. @nod you might be the man to answer this also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted October 11, 2019 Share Posted October 11, 2019 24 minutes ago, vfrdave said: @nod you might be the man to answer this also. I think it’s one for the plumbers I wouldn’t trim the tiles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted October 11, 2019 Share Posted October 11, 2019 I don't think it matters for the hot tap - just tighten the shroud up against the tile. For the spout just use a lot of PTFE on the threads and turn it until it's pointing in the right direction. Worse case it could be almost one full turn out from the wall so not "tight" against anything, however the water pressure in the spout is usually low so the PTFE should handle it. Our plumber didn't like the small gap on our bath spout and used a Dremel to grind back the travertine stone a little so he could turn it another turn. Personally I wouldn't have bothered. He made it look easy on travertine but I think some tiles would chip out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfrdave Posted October 11, 2019 Author Share Posted October 11, 2019 4 minutes ago, Temp said: I don't think it matters for the hot tap - just tighten the shroud up against the tile. For the spout just use a lot of PTFE on the threads and turn it until it's pointing in the right direction. Worse case it could be almost one full turn out from the wall so not "tight" against anything, however the water pressure in the spout is usually low so the PTFE should handle it. Our plumber didn't like the small gap on our bath spout and used a Dremel to grind back the travertine stone a little so he could turn it another turn. Personally I wouldn't have bothered. He made it look easy on travertine but I think some tiles would chip out. The tiles are too tight to the tap body currently. I can't get the chrome cover to thread at all on the hot tap because the tiles won't let it. The spout can't get in past the tiles far enough to catch a thread. Tap brassware installed too deep and at an angle it seems. Plastered over too thick. Tiler didn't have or ask for tapware just to make sure. Whatever of all of them I need to get my tap fitted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted October 11, 2019 Share Posted October 11, 2019 Ah ok. I see what you mean. I'd get the tiler back. Is the threaded part of the spout fixed to the spout? On ours it's a separate threaded tube that can be unscrewed from the spout to make it longer or replace it with a longer one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 11, 2019 Share Posted October 11, 2019 I took a Starrett arbour, removed the 1/4" pilot and drilled up the middle so it slipped over the the spindle after measuring the diameter of the spindle with a Vernier: It allowed me to then fit a hole saw and use the spindle in effect where the pilot drill was. Thus the hole drilled was perfectly concentric to the mixer: Thus the mixer fitted perfectly: Appeciate this was in Aqua Panel but you could do the same for drilling the tile but with a grit edged hole saw or ideally diamond edged one. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 11, 2019 Share Posted October 11, 2019 I feel such an amateur! ? The idea behind all this "faffing" is to be able to remove elements later without breaking the tile: This box spannner's for a Landrover apparently... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted October 11, 2019 Share Posted October 11, 2019 11 minutes ago, Onoff said: This box spannner's for a Landrover apparently... I will know where to ask should I ever need that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 11, 2019 Share Posted October 11, 2019 6 minutes ago, ProDave said: I will know where to ask should I ever need that. 52mm, the original eBay listing text: https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Wheel-Bearing-Special-Hub-Nut-Box-Spanner-DEFENDER-DISCOVERY-606435-/130750239660? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfrdave Posted October 11, 2019 Author Share Posted October 11, 2019 1 hour ago, Onoff said: I took a Starrett arbour, removed the 1/4" pilot and drilled up the middle so it slipped over the the spindle after measuring the diameter of the spindle with a Vernier: It allowed me to then fit a hole saw and use the spindle in effect where the pilot drill was. Thus the hole drilled was perfectly concentric to the mixer: Thus the mixer fitted perfectly: Appeciate this was in Aqua Panel but you could do the same for drilling the tile but with a grit edged hole saw or ideally diamond edged one. This idea would work I guess but I don't have your engineering skills or an Arbor to sacrifice. I have a powerchange Arbor but too good to hack. I'm guessing you need the right depth hole saw also to allow for the length of spindle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 11, 2019 Share Posted October 11, 2019 Just now, vfrdave said: This idea would work I guess but I don't have your engineering skills or an Arbor to sacrifice. I have a powerchange Arbor but too good to hack. I'm guessing you need the right depth hole saw also to allow for the length of spindle. If you can measure the spindle dia accurately (think mine was 9mm from memory) and the diameter you need for the screw in bit I could make something up here and post I'm sure. Got loads of spare arbours and would happily give you one of my diamond hole saws just for the challenge of making it / to see the job done right. Do the cylindrical bits screw on first like this: Then a cover plate pushes on? (Horseshoe of silicone, open at the bottom): Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 7 hours ago, vfrdave said: This idea would work I guess but I don't have your engineering skills or an Arbor to sacrifice. I have a powerchange Arbor but too good to hack. I'm guessing you need the right depth hole saw also to allow for the length of spindle. Powerchange? Wow, you're posh! ? Measure from face of tile to end of spindle and I'll see if it'll work. I can drill right up the centre of the arbour in the lathe if necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfrdave Posted October 12, 2019 Author Share Posted October 12, 2019 19 hours ago, Onoff said: If you can measure the spindle dia accurately (think mine was 9mm from memory) and the diameter you need for the screw in bit I could make something up here and post I'm sure. Got loads of spare arbours and would happily give you one of my diamond hole saws just for the challenge of making it / to see the job done right. Do the cylindrical bits screw on first like this: Then a cover plate pushes on? (Horseshoe of silicone, open at the bottom): Cylindrical screw on for the tap and then a round washer shroud to cover it up. The spout just screws straight in and also has a round washer shroud. Spindle length to tile is 44mm, spindle diameter I measured as 10mm but need to do a more accurate measure. 35mm hole cutter will do both holes I believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 (edited) 30 minutes ago, vfrdave said: Cylindrical screw on for the tap and then a round washer shroud to cover it up. The spout just screws straight in and also has a round washer shroud. Spindle length to tile is 44mm, spindle diameter I measured as 10mm but need to do a more accurate measure. 35mm hole cutter will do both holes I believe. I'll have a look in a bit a what bits I've got here to do this. Too dark to go and borrow the lathe now so hang fire and if its feasible I'll do tomorrow and post Monday. Edited October 12, 2019 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 @vfrdave, would a 40mm diamond hole saw be OK? I have 35 and 40 but the 40 is "meatier" hence will I think be easier to drill in the lathe and graft to the Starrett arbour. I'll do them both. The 40 dia is also longer. Don't get your hopes up btw! ? These things are made of some sort of Chinesium! Thinking some more...would this do, 35mm dia carbide edged holesaw on a Starrett arbour (drilled to go over the spindle)? Its one of these: https://www.toolstation.com/tungsten-carbide-grit-holesaw/p73155 This is the Vernier I use. Stainless steel made by Mauser. It's outlasted all my digital ones: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 ...closer to home Dave, I've a carbide crust holesaw in the car, and it's somewhere between 35 and 40m IIRC. I'll check it in the morning... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 9 minutes ago, dpmiller said: ...closer to home Dave, I've a carbide crust holesaw in the car, and it's somewhere between 35 and 40m IIRC. I'll check it in the morning... It's centering it over the spindle that's the issue now that the fittings are in behind the tiles. I can post my drilled one Monday morning if he wants. Mine is drilled 9mm diameter btw about 85mm in from the end of the grit edge. If you can be more accurate on the spindle size I can drill it bigger before I post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 Mine'll go on a standard arbour so yes, spindle size critical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 Just now, dpmiller said: Mine'll go on a standard arbour so yes, spindle size critical. Just to be clear, mine is a standard arbour but has the pilot drill removed. The spindle becomes the pilot in effect. From memory I put a drop of lube on the spindle. Wanting to say it was light machine oil but probably whatever was to hand so like likely silicone grease... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 You'll need to cover the splines on the spindle then, or the arbour will file the splines off Then you'll be up shit creek, minus the paddle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 12, 2019 Share Posted October 12, 2019 (edited) 21 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: You'll need to cover the splines on the spindle then, or the arbour will file the splines off Then you'll be up shit creek, minus the paddle. My spindle was a bigger diameter than the splined section so not an issue... ...as is @vfrdave's: Edited October 12, 2019 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfrdave Posted October 15, 2019 Author Share Posted October 15, 2019 On 12/10/2019 at 22:41, Onoff said: It's centering it over the spindle that's the issue now that the fittings are in behind the tiles. I can post my drilled one Monday morning if he wants. Mine is drilled 9mm diameter btw about 85mm in from the end of the grit edge. If you can be more accurate on the spindle size I can drill it bigger before I post. On 12/10/2019 at 22:44, dpmiller said: Mine'll go on a standard arbour so yes, spindle size critical. So I don't have a fancy Vernier to measure the spindle. I have checked it with an adjustable spanner and it seems to land between 9&10mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 15, 2019 Share Posted October 15, 2019 18 minutes ago, vfrdave said: So I don't have a fancy Vernier to measure the spindle. I have checked it with an adjustable spanner and it seems to land between 9&10mm. I'll quite happily drill one arbour at 9.5 and one at 10 to go with the 9 I've already done and post but it seems a bit mad. You can get a cheap vernier for a couple of quid: https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/153593884476? Spend a tenner and you'll get a full stainless one. Aldi and Lidl often do them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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