Basic cement/ ballast Q

[joe90]

4 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

You mean my overall 4m height?

 

Yes, I was pushing my luck with a previous extension so dumped soil around it before the inspector arrived and removed it afterwards.!

[zoothorn]

2 minutes ago, joe90 said:

 

Yes, I was pushing my luck with a previous extension so dumped soil around it before the inspector arrived and removed it afterwards.!

 

Understood.

 

The front deck bit (where the cabin will not be).. here the 2 joists Ive put in are at 450mm centres, so if I put scaffold bords on this area with wee gaps etc.. would 1 centre noggins be ok (looks a bit big gaps) or should I double up & put 2 in? And do these noggins' ends need to be cuprinol'd.. or will the fact that they're nailed & flush to the joists mean painting their cut ends not needed?

[Declan52]

27 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

Ok understood. So the shed will sit on the OSB.. but I'd have thought over time this would be the fallible 'layer' you see.. especially here as its rainforest wet.. so is it defo ok to put the cabin walls (the cabin load) onto the perimeter of the OSB?

 

Are you suggesting the way a typical log cabin is built, is the floor is put in last/ so I can build it standing on the OSB.. then once roof on, fit insulation > floor inside?

 

What if there is a time delay between the OSB layer & cabin onto it? IE rain on the OSB?

You will have 2 floors. The first your osb. The shed doesn't suit on this.

The shed sits on the 3*2 that is on top of the osb.

So when your shed is up you have a floor to work from. Once the shed is built you then move inside and put the insulation down and your final floor, more osb,ply,chipboard or whatever it will be.

Don't put the osb down until you know the shed is there.

Osb day 1 then shed day 2. 

Insulation and final floor day 346.

[joe90]

27 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

Understood.

 

The front deck bit (where the cabin will not be).. here the 2 joists Ive put in are at 450mm centres, so if I put scaffold bords on this area with wee gaps etc.. would 1 centre noggins be ok (looks a bit big gaps) or should I double up & put 2 in? And do these noggins' ends need to be cuprinol'd.. or will the fact that they're nailed & flush to the joists mean painting their cut ends not needed?

 

I would put two in (I tend to over engineer stuff, but it never moves). Can’t remember if you used treated joists, if you did then no need to treat but if not I would treat them with something. 

[zoothorn]

3 hours ago, Declan52 said:

You will have 2 floors. The first your osb. The shed doesn't suit on this.

The shed sits on the 3*2 that is on top of the osb.

So when your shed is up you have a floor to work from. Once the shed is built you then move inside and put the insulation down and your final floor, more osb,ply,chipboard or whatever it will be.

Don't put the osb down until you know the shed is there.

Osb day 1 then shed day 2. 

Insulation and final floor day 346.

 

Hi Declan,

 

shed won't sit directly on the OSB, no I understand the perimeter 3x2 is for shed to sit on directly.. but the 3x2 ontop of the OSB, is effectively the shed's load on perimeter of the OSB.. surely OSB is not designed for a load to go on it: is my point.

 

Osb day 1 then shed day 2. Yup that makes good sense/ understood.

 

Insulation and final floor day 346. Not understood: ahem.. page 346 thanking you.

[Russell griffiths]

Have you collected the shed?

if not I would collect it so you know what the base configuration looks like, lay the base on and make your decision based on that. 

The last thing you want to do is fit something and have to alter it. 

[zoothorn]

2 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

Have you collected the shed?

if not I would collect it so you know what the base configuration looks like, lay the base on and make your decision based on that. 

The last thing you want to do is fit something and have to alter it. 

 

Good idea. No cabin/ shed is still up in the agricultural merchants (really quite second hand hence £550). Ive got to go deconstruct it, place it all on pallets > them to deliver it. Roof needs refelting, some wood panel bits rotted need renewing.

 

Its got to be carefully worked out when to undo it, when to haveed deliver (not happy with me/ time spent on the base! but no idea of tricky job over slope etc/ or me doing alone) to avoid sitting in the rain either there in bits on pallets, or here s'where.

[zoothorn]

4 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

Have you collected the shed?

if not I would collect it so you know what the base configuration looks like, lay the base on and make your decision based on that. 

The last thing you want to do is fit something and have to alter it. 

 

I might go dismantle it tmrw > deliver to me tues.. & store in house so it won't get soaked/ good idea to get it 1st before I do anything else, Ive still no idea how the base & floor works.

 

@PeterW assuming I get the OSB down/ shed walls & roof up on the 3x2 frame ontop the osb.. is the thinking then to just lay the 50mm insulation on the osb.. then just the wood floor (maybe tongue & groove fitting strips) onto the insulation? IE not fixed just laid on?

 

What thickness OSB? and is it OSB 3 I'm after (what does the 3 mean/ signify.).. sorry for a few more Q's.

 

Thanks, zoot

[andyscotland]

32 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

I might go dismantle it tmrw > deliver to me tues.. & store in house so it won't get soaked/ good idea to get it 1st before I do anything else, Ive still no idea how the base & floor works.

 

@PeterW assuming I get the OSB down/ shed walls & roof up on the 3x2 frame ontop the osb.. is the thinking then to just lay the 50mm insulation on the osb.. then just the wood floor (maybe tongue & groove fitting strips) onto the insulation? IE not fixed just laid on?

 

Getting it first sounds a very good idea. If it's originally intended to have been a freestanding cabin I'd assume there's some framing / structure below whatever the flooring is (it wouldn't have just been tongue and groove planks on soil/driveway).

 

That may be easy to omit, or may have implications for walls etc so be easier to keep. Various ways you could do it so best to see what you have first then we can help you make a plan.

 

Quote

 

What thickness OSB? and is it OSB 3 I'm after (what does the 3 mean/ signify.).. sorry for a few more Q's.

 

Thanks, zoot

 

I'd go for OSB3 - the 3 signifies load-bearing / moisture exposure class according to the standard - class 3 is "load-bearing boards for use in humid conditions" in other words protected from direct external water but ok to get damp from airborne moisture.

[PeterW]

37 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

might go dismantle it tmrw > deliver to me tues.. & store in house so it won't get soaked/ good idea to get it 1st before I do anything else, Ive still no idea how the base & floor works.

just get it off the floor outside on pallets and then put a decent tarpaulin over it. Much easier and quicker than trying to keep it elsewhere. 
 

And @andyscotland has said use OSB3 and get the deck down first. 
 

If you can get the scaffold boards then I’d be using them as outside too instead of 3x2. If they overlap the frame you can protect the edge of the OSB too. 

[zoothorn]

20 minutes ago, PeterW said:

just get it off the floor outside on pallets and then put a decent tarpaulin over it. Much easier and quicker than trying to keep it elsewhere. 
 

And @andyscotland has said use OSB3 and get the deck down first. 
 

If you can get the scaffold boards then I’d be using them as outside too instead of 3x2. If they overlap the frame you can protect the edge of the OSB too. 

 

But surely scaffold boards aren't 50mm high- isn't this the reason you suggested 3x2? as the 2" side will be the same height as the insulation, so it comes up to the top.

 

Or am I missing something- probably.. as I'm very, very thick.

[PeterW]

Depends - Hadleys had a lot of 50mm ones and even some 63mm ones when I was in there last. 
 

38mm is available too. 
 

if you can get 38mm ones, do two rows round the outside and drop OSB in the middle and you’ve got a nice space for a couple of sheets of 60mm Celotex. 

[zoothorn]

9 hours ago, PeterW said:

Depends - Hadleys had a lot of 50mm ones and even some 63mm ones when I was in there last. 
 

38mm is available too. 
 

if you can get 38mm ones, do two rows round the outside and drop OSB in the middle and you’ve got a nice space for a couple of sheets of 60mm Celotex. 

 

Hi Peter- what would be advantage of scaffold boards over tannalised 3x2 tho?

 

so in this ^ eg, you're not putting the osb3 sandwiched between the frame & the scaff boards.. but added later, inside-?

 

What about how celotex fixes to asb, & ontop of the celotex, how is the floor fixed to it?

[PeterW]

Scaffold boards are wider and if they span outside to inside it gives you something to support and fix the edges Of your inner floor boards to. 

[zoothorn]

21 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Scaffold boards are wider and if they span outside to inside it gives you something to support and fix the edges Of your inner floor boards to. 

 

Ok understood- hadn't thought of this fix yet.

 

How best to fix the c'tex to osb, the osb to the frame, & the floor to the c'tex?

 

One thing I'm unsure on, is 3 cabin outer beams. The back beam.. is only fixed by 2 turbo bolt screws each side, as is the cabin front beam (one midway @ spanning across plinths).. as is the very front deck beam. Ideally I needed some form of joist hanger/ bracket thing, like the far more rigid/ secure adjacent joists themselves (which the cabin's load doesn't bear upon).

 

The two outer beams are fine/very secure.. but the back & front cabin beams.. are alot less secure.

 

Anyway sunday's work..

 

 

[zoothorn]

Here's the sod in Q I'm (hopefully) taking apart tmrw/ deliver ~end of week probably.

 

Seems to be sitting on  s'thing or other.. will find out tmrw I guess.

[PeterW]

Get a decent sharpie marker and mark every single one of those logs before you take them apart ..!! Doesn’t matter what system you use, but make sure you know how they go back together. I’d number on the end grain as you can just sand off the numbers when you’re done. 
 

You’ll need a decent drill driver and patience to get the screws out of the frames where the doors and windows are fitted in. 
 

looks a nice size though. 

[joe90]

Looks like it’s got a floor already, you will know when you get it apart.?

[zoothorn]

5 hours ago, PeterW said:

Get a decent sharpie marker..

 

Good suggestion Peter- I was going to do this. Have you ever built one? the floor's got a lot of nails well set in I'm not looking fwd to (what they're into who knows), but maybe once roof, door & window off & I then unpick the walls -looks rather satisfying IF they all just sit on on another- I might find a square of floor I could possibly leave as is > transport > & plonk in. @joe90 I guess I'll find out as you say.

 

Its getting the roof off is my 1st prob. Set aside all day tmrw there to dismantle & flat pack it on pallet(s), but I wont have www access.

[joe90]

Best of luck mate, can you not find someone to give you a hand, will make the job a lot easier.

[zoothorn]

35 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Best of luck mate, can you not find someone to give you a hand, will make the job a lot easier.

 

I know & I wish, but nope- I'm on my own on this one (don't know anyone in the country let alone here to help) store won't help me either.

 

All I've got to do is take off felt & roof is in t&g strips so get 1st off etc, & walls should be fine, door/window should come off ok I hope.. just the floor might be a fkn b'stard.

[joe90]

@zoothorn shame your so far away, I like a challenge ?.

[zoothorn]

16 minutes ago, joe90 said:

@zoothorn shame your so far away, I like a challenge ?.

 

Boy, an hour of help from one of you guys & it'd be tackled.. cheers tho Joe.

[zoothorn]

5 hours ago, joe90 said:

Looks like it’s got a floor already, you will know when you get it apart.?

 

Do these lock-together cabins typically not have floors as standard then do you know?

 

Actually has anyone's built one of these? I can't figure out even how they fix to the base/ guess I'll find out.. but how would I fix this to mine- I mean surely they're not just sat there via gravity alone, are they? with my big FO front spoiler facing the Irish sea?

[joe90]

You will find out when you take it apart, just look fir the screws.