James94 Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 Hi all, I’m building a storey and a half house and trying to find the best way of insulating the sloping part of the ceiling. Here is the specification we currently have, I would like some advice on the best (easiest and most cost effective) way to achieve this u-value. All advice welcome. Thanks James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 Hey I put pir insulation between rafters . Foam filled any gaps then 50mm over the lot taping all the joints cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 Oops sorry ! Just read your ‘spec’ . I put 150mm inbetween rafters and 50mm over it all . From memory this gave around 0.15. So with plasterboard aswell should meet your spec . More intelligent people will be along shortly ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 I have a 1.5 storey house with 200mm deep rafters, PIR between. I wouldn't do this again. Too hot in summer. I would probably build a warm roof with most of the insulation above the rafters. I have a shed that has a ventilated cavity between the cladding and insulation. This shed stays surprisingly cool in summer. I have a hunch that something like the following might be worth investigating... Tiles Ventilated void (eg vents at eaves and ridge) Membrane (vapour permeable) Multifoil insulation Rockwool between rafters PIR below rafters. Yes three different types of insulation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_r_sole Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 (edited) . Edited September 26, 2019 by the_r_sole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James94 Posted August 22, 2019 Author Share Posted August 22, 2019 (edited) Rafters are 220mm deep Edited August 22, 2019 by James94 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_r_sole Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 (edited) . Edited September 26, 2019 by the_r_sole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_r_sole Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 (edited) . Edited September 26, 2019 by the_r_sole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimpsy Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 Although we did something completely different in the end. Construction: BTC 0580 Tiles on battens on Tyvek Supro installed draped over counter battens. 100mm PIR insulation is installed on a 9mmOSB board that sits atop the rafters. 230mm Knauf Earthwool 032 is installed between rafters. Internal lining is a DuPont Airguard Reflective AVCL and a 12.5mm plasterboard. Condensation: No condensation is predicted U-value: 0.09 W/m2K We hope this information helps to resolve all queries. If you require further assistance please contact us again on the details below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 1 hour ago, pocster said: Oops sorry ! Just read your ‘spec’ . I put 150mm inbetween rafters and 50mm over it all . From memory this gave around 0.15. So with plasterboard aswell should meet your spec . More intelligent people will be along shortly ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 1 hour ago, pocster said: Hey I put pir insulation between rafters . Foam filled any gaps then 50mm over the lot taping all the joints cheers I do a lot of these We normally counter baton the ceiling to stop the insulation sitting on the airtight barrier and fix the airtight barrier taught onto the counter batons The board with duplex Again with the slopes Baton then run your barrier 200 mil onto the upright Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 Are architects all on commission from Kingspan! K107 "Kooltherm" has conductivity of 0.02 W/m K and costs, according to a quick Google, around £28 a square metre at 100mm depth. Cheaper prices may be available. You really should only use this stuff if you have a ridge height issue. As an aside, 75mm is a totally non standard thickness which would be hard to get hold of and be a bit more expensive for any given volume than 100mm boards. 100mm of Celotex GA4000 costs around £12 a square metre. Its conductivity at 0.022 is 10% worse, so it would have be be 10% thicker to provide the same insulation value. You could also substitute the Kooltherm based plasterboard for PIR based which would be about 10-15% cheaper at the same thickness. In this case substituting 100mm Celotex for the 75mm of K107 and PIR based plasterboard would save roughly 40% om the material costs whilst giving roughly the same u-value. I think at this rafter thickness you could also use 150mm of rockwool between the rafters and PIR below and be even cheaper again. You would have to check condensation issues. Alternatively you could use 150mm of PIR between the rafters and plasterboard below. Also if the rafters are 220mm deep is the proposal really to have a 25mm gap then 75mm of insulation then a 100mm gap then plasterboard/PIR below. That seems v odd. Also what do they mean, install vapour barrier on the warm side of the insulation, between it and the plasterboard, half the insulation is attached to the plasterboard, so that is just impossible! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 190mm of Earthwool between the rafters, 25mm PIR over secured with 25mm battens at the joists and then 25mm infill, taped at all joints will work for you from both uValue and airtightness perspective and is also good for decrement delay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_r_sole Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 (edited) . Edited September 26, 2019 by the_r_sole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_L Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 3 hours ago, James94 said: I would like some advice on the best (easiest and most cost effective) way to achieve this u-value. 200mm of frametherm 35 or RWA45 between your rafters, and your K118 will give U = 0.13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_r_sole Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 (edited) . Edited September 26, 2019 by the_r_sole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 21 minutes ago, the_r_sole said: Where are you getting that calc from? I've just looked at doing a room in the roof with a similar build up, but could only get to 0.14 with 200mm Earthwool and 50mm PIR on the inside (that was just through Knauf insulation direct) Could definitely do with a better uvalue for less material!? Use FrameTherm32 for the rafter fill, gives 0.14 when you take into consideration the 25mm PIR stopping the bridging of the rafters. This was on a 600mm rafter spacing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_r_sole Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 (edited) . Edited September 26, 2019 by the_r_sole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James94 Posted August 26, 2019 Author Share Posted August 26, 2019 I would like to thank everyone for their help and great advice. I was considering using two layers of frametherm with PIR underneath, but the trusses aren’t spaced out evenly due to the dormers. So I was wondering how easy is frametherm to cut and work with? When using the celotex calculator it asks for rafter spacings, most are at 600mm centres but there’s are a few which are less. Should I choose the 600mm option or will I recieve incorrect calculations? See attached photo. Thanks James. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted August 26, 2019 Share Posted August 26, 2019 As a note most commercial contracting builders pay absolutely no attention to brand of pir round here only thickness. It's whatever's cheapest and avail at the time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted August 26, 2019 Share Posted August 26, 2019 The spacing is to calculate the bridging losses from the trusses. It will not make a meaningful difference. You can cut Frametherm to width pretty easily whilst it is still rolled up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James94 Posted August 26, 2019 Author Share Posted August 26, 2019 Can anyone tell me what thickness PIR i would require if I were to use 180mm frametherm 32 or 35 between rafters to achieve 0.14? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted August 26, 2019 Share Posted August 26, 2019 50mm should get you there. You need to work in R-Values to add up materials. A U-value of 0.14 is equivalent to an R-Value of 1/0.14 = 7.14. 180mm Frametherm 35 has an R-Value of 5.1 (From datasheet) - The calculation is thickness in m/thermal conductivity = 0.18/0.035 = 5.14. So to get to a U-Value of 0.14 you need to add another 2 to the R-Value. To calculate this you multiply the conductivity by the R-Value that you need = 0.022x2 = 0.044mm. So 50mm will get you there. To do the calculation properly you need to allow for bridging by trusses and small gains from the other materials in the roof. This will be close enough, the supplier should be able to give you an exact value. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_L Posted August 26, 2019 Share Posted August 26, 2019 1 hour ago, AliG said: So 50mm will get you there. Not quite, when you allow 15% for timber fraction, on same build-up as before U=0.157. To get 0.14 or better you need at least 70mm, U=0.136 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now