Board on board vertical cladding detail

[jamieled]

We are currently planning our cladding. This is vertical board on board larch. However, despite our best research efforts we are struggling to work out details around windows and also where two strips of cladding join.

For example, on the gables the lengths of larch cannot cover the entire wall, so what is the best way of setting out the cladding? Should it all stop/start at the same place or should adjacent joins be misaligned to avoid creating an obvious horizontal line?

Any pictures most welcome!

[Russell griffiths]

I suppose it depends how rustic you want it to look, my neighbour has just built a huge 500m workshop all clad board on board, it looks very good but it does have a rustic character to it, it would never go with what we have in mind, but probably cost him a quarter of what ours will. 

I think it really depends on the LOOK you are after. 

[Temp]

Google found some info..

 

Try contacting.. Timber Decking and Cladding Association..

https://www.tdca.org.uk/

 

Looks like they have guides with drawings..

 

No 9: "Detailed openings Vertical Clading"

https://www.tdca.org.uk/media/3778/woodcampius_css9.pdf

 

 

Elsewhere.. About page 13 onwards (pages aren't numbered)

http://www.woodcomponents.ie/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/MTS-Cladding-Detail-and-Design.pdf

 

Some of the example photos show joins staggered on adjacent boards. On my horizontally clad out building I staggered the joints over at least three different positions so they didn't form an obvious line. 

 

Bit of info in here ..

https://www.silvatimber.co.uk/media/pdfs/Thermowood/Thermowood-Technical-Instructions.pdf

.. mentions chamfering the lower edge of boards (page 7).

 

[jamieled]

@Russell griffiths pretty rustic look going on here.

 

@Temp, I feel a bit embarrassed about my googling skills now, but thanks for those, will have a read.

[Patrick]

@Temp

Very usefull links. I will use this as well.

 

@jamieled

How long is your wall that larch can not cover the entire house? There are some serious lengths available. Unless you're 2 storey of course.

[Temp]

 

7 minutes ago, jamieled said:

 

@Temp, I feel a bit embarrassed about my googling skills now, but thanks for those, will have a read.

 

No worries I started using Google when Yahoo was the best portal and before Google had adverts.

[jamieled]

31 minutes ago, Patrick said:

 

@jamieled

How long is your wall that larch can not cover the entire house? There are some serious lengths available. Unless you're 2 storey of course.

I think the longest length is around 7.5m, which is ground floor to gable. The question arises because this is planned to be fairly diy - we will buy in roundwood larch,  mill it, dry it a bit and then use it. So at the moment we're just sussing out the roundwood timber market to see what's available and how we could use it.

[Patrick]

@jamieled

Are you buying UK larch or getting roundwood abroad?  Central Europe had a quite bad bug season and Larch is suffering. Prices are a bit high atm. But than, UK always is a bit of a drop in quality (and prices normally seem to be very high all the time)

[jamieled]

@Patrick, definitely from the UK, and preferably local. There has been quite a bit of harvesting round us so we're hopeful of finding something. Haulage is often significant money.

[Patrick]

@jamieled

Where about in the UK are you?

[jamieled]

@Patrick, about 40 minutes drive west of Inverness, near Cannich.

[Russell griffiths]

My neighbours workshop is Douglas Fir, it looks very good and was a good price also. 

[Crofter]

I managed to avoid the joints completely because the house is so small. In fact the roof pitch was set at 42 degree rather than 45 since this kept the floor-apex gable height to 16ft.

In the event, Novaar sawmill (who are fairly local to the OP) supplied me with 4.9m lengths.

 

If it's only going to be a handful of boards in the middle that need a joint, then careful placement of a window would hide those.

Alternatively, you could make a fairly bold move and have a joint line at the eaves level. Have the upper triangle of the gable stepped out slightly, to give a drip edge. 

If you don't fancy either of those, then you would have to go with butt joints. But I would cut them with an angle and treat the ends. And I would definitely stagger the joints.

 

 

Lots of juicy details in this document:

https://www.gov.scot/publications/timber-cladding-scotland/

[ToughButterCup]

Thanks very much everyone for your posts. I need to cross this Rubicon before the winter ( 2019 or 2020? ?)

 

[eandg]

Any pitfalls worth sharing? Will be cladding next month and particularly interested in detailing for insect mesh and corners.

[Kelvin]

My architect is doing a detail for me so will share on here when I get it. 

[Kelvin]

@eandg Might be too late. I’ve got the detail for this now I can share with you. I also came across this book which has the detailing you’re asking for. 
 

One thing that did catch my eye quickly skimming through the book is that for board on board the heart wood should face inwards on the inside boards and outwards on the outside boards. This helps the boards make a better contact should they shrink. 
 

Edited February 6, 2023 by Kelvin