Tin Soldier Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 So some stupid timber cladding questions, before I start planning how I'm going to attack this - my focus has been entirely elsewhere for months. I have circa 50m2 of Vertical Board on Board Cladding to do. Roof is on, slated etc. Temporary fascias in place to give kick for slate etc, but does need replaced. No barge boards and/or soffits in place yet- plan is to minimise the barge board/fascia/box end to the absolute minimum Plan for cladding is vertical, and horizontal cross battening out, before board on board cladding is installed. so, stupid questions in order. 1. Do I need to figure out and install fascia soffit, barge board, box bloody end etc first, and install. Then clad up to it or, clad first and install fascia/soffit over the top. 2. What can i use for a flashing/drip detail at top of window. This doesn't seem to be on the plans architect supplied, so I've missed it out. I've been looking around and timber cladding builds and some dont appear to have anything above window, other than timber detailing? 3. does anyone have any decent links to videos of timber cladding detailing/installation - I've not really found anything that goes into detail about cladding round doors and windows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triassic Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 (edited) I’m cladding to finish just above there the soffit goes. My reasoning is that I’ll have a nice clean edge that is easier to cut in the soffit board rather than the cladding. Ive used DPC as the flashing over windows and doors, this is stapled and the taped into place over the breather membrane. Let me know if you find any decent videos! Edited July 30, 2019 by Triassic Typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tin Soldier Posted July 30, 2019 Author Share Posted July 30, 2019 (edited) do you have any pics @Triassic do you have no metal flashing above the windows to provide a drip etc? Edited July 30, 2019 by Tin Soldier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lizzie Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 My vertical cladding goes to soffit and stops just short. I have metal drip over windows. Fabricated and powder coated to match window frames. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeSharp01 Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 That's Chrisp detailing @lizzie love the drips. What is the finish on the timber? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lizzie Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 Just now, MikeSharp01 said: That's Chrisp detailing @lizzie love the drips. What is the finish on the timber? Thank you. Its Siberian Larch Sivalbp with New Age Gris sacrificial coating for even weathering Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tin Soldier Posted July 30, 2019 Author Share Posted July 30, 2019 That's really lovely lizzie Mine will be a little more rustic, whether I like it or not Another question I've decided how I will be affixing the larch barge board, question is how close do I put it to the bottom of the slates? They currently overhand a few inches, I intend to but the larch right up to them, subject to someone telling me what I should put in between barge board and the slates or that I should leave a small gap? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cambs Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 29 minutes ago, Tin Soldier said: That's really lovely lizzie Mine will be a little more rustic, whether I like it or not Another question I've decided how I will be affixing the larch barge board, question is how close do I put it to the bottom of the slates? They currently overhand a few inches, I intend to but the larch right up to them, subject to someone telling me what I should put in between barge board and the slates or that I should leave a small gap? Here’s my detail. Roofing company have suggested that I move the fascia board up by 50mm so that it aligns with the batten and counter batten. Note the requirement for a fascia vent - Manthorpe over fascia vent below Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miek Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 This is a pic of my shed cladding, larch sawn board on board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tin Soldier Posted August 30, 2019 Author Share Posted August 30, 2019 any recommendations on fixings attaching battens/counter battens to building (timber) Screws or nails? attaching face fix larch cladding - screws or nails? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 48 minutes ago, Tin Soldier said: attaching face fix larch cladding - screws or nails? You need to use stainless, whichever you choose. We attached our horizontal larch using stainless nails. I discussed power-nailing with the guys who did it and they thought it wouldn't work due to the hardness of the larch. They pre-drilled every hole and then hand-nailed - a lot of work! For our soffits, I've been using good quality (Spax) stainless screws and they work a treat. I was worried they'd need pre-drilling, but they go straight in with little effort and no splitting. Torx heads help. One nice thing about screws is that if you need access at a later date, it's easy to do. I had to remove a bit of nailed cladding and it was a nightmare. The battens for the horizontal cladding were power-nailed with galvanised nails. For the battens for the soffits, I just used Spax screws (longer than for the cladding) and they've been fine, although not much is being asked of them in terms of loads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpd Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 I used stainless steel ring shank nails on my larch cladding as there is a lot of pressure / movement on the fixings when using unseasoned timber in this style as it dries and tries to warp. I had no problems at all and 4 years on nothing has failed. I pre drilled all the holes and again have had no splitting or cracking. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 1 hour ago, Cpd said: I used stainless steel ring shank nails... Yes, ring shank for us too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 If you are using a Paslode and the fixings are visible, buy and fit a "No Mar" tip so the timber does not get the little indents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 I used screws for the battens, mainly because of the length involved. A 50mm batten on top of a 50mm counter batten, then through the osb sheathing, and finally into the stud- it's a long way. You can't get nails that long, and even if you could, you wouldn't know whether you had hit the stud or not. For the larch, I used stainless 70mm nails in a coil nailer. This has several advantages over a stick nailer: longer between refills, cheaper nails with no gas to buy, and most importantly nice full round heads on them. These look much better than the D-shaped clipped heads on a stick nailer, and you don't get the imprint of the hammer, because none of it protrudes past the egde of the nail head. I didn't pre-drill except for nails within say two inches of the end of a board- for these I pre-drilled and hand nailed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tin Soldier Posted September 16, 2019 Author Share Posted September 16, 2019 (edited) Holy Moly the price of stainless steel fixings.. I simply cannot believe it, I need circa 2000 of them - face fixed Is there any reason deck screws cannot be used? Similar to these https://www.screwfix.com/p/timbadeck-double-countersunk-stainless-steel-decking-screws-4-5-x-75mm-500-pack/26316 https://www.screwfix.com/p/deck-tite-double-countersunk-stainless-steel-decking-screw-4-5-x-75mm-200-pack/52019 Also can coated screws (ugly green things) be used on the boards behind - that are unseen https://www.screwfix.com/p/timbadeck-double-countersunk-carbon-steel-decking-screws-4-5-x-65mm-1300-pack/23160#product_additional_details_container Edited September 16, 2019 by Tin Soldier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tin Soldier Posted September 17, 2019 Author Share Posted September 17, 2019 Never mind pinged my Brother in law a message who works for a local company that sells all sorts of bits and pieces £66 inc vat for 1500 stainless steel screws- he says ' yeh the markup on fasteners is pretty large' - pretty large? try 10 fold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpd Posted September 17, 2019 Share Posted September 17, 2019 8 hours ago, Tin Soldier said: pinged my Brother in law a message who works for a local company that sells all sorts of bits and pieces £66 inc vat for 1500 stainless steel screws- he says ' yeh the markup on fasteners is pretty large' - pretty large? try 10 fold. I need a bro like this ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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