daiking 359 Posted June 25 How hard would it actually be to fit something like this? Ok, so I’ve never used a router before or jointed a laminate worktop but... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oz07 203 Posted June 25 Depends how accurate dims are. Could well be ripping some off back of all l/h units Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daiking 359 Posted June 25 (edited) 18 minutes ago, Oz07 said: Depends how accurate dims are. Could well be ripping some off back of all l/h units The 400mm unit (base and wall) to the left of the sink will be shrunk to 300mm. There are design issues but I’ll save that for another time. The principle here is installation. Plumbing and Electrical are sorted (sort of) Edited June 25 by daiking Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oz07 203 Posted June 25 What i am saying is one run is inbetween two fixed points. Its obviously harder to fit than a kitchen with 2 free edges. Like I say if the dims are tight you may have to rip some units narrower. For a joiner it's probably a 3/10 difficulty if I have to give it a number?! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Punter 624 Posted June 25 Fairly simple to DIY. Quick too if the units are assembled. As you have worked out, if the worktop is to be joined with a masons mitre and bolted underneath it is best done with a jig. Cutting down and fitting end fillets and corner fillets takes a while but if they are well done make the job look professional. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joe90 957 Posted June 25 I used to fit kitchens and that is fairly simple but make sure the corner is 90’, i once had to fit a kitchen in a NEW extension, didn’t think about checking the corner, I had to hack inches out of the plaster to get in in!!. If your not confident with a router and jig might be best to get it done by a fitter (I used to do worktops fir two other kitchen fitters) there is a knack. If the units have pipe room at the back like , Howden’s, B@Q etc you can waste some of that to fit it in.if your cutting a 400 down to 300 the carcass is ok but what about the door? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BotusBuild 24 Posted June 25 Fitted a new kitchen just over 11 years ago. Borrowed a router and worktop jig - tested on some offcut to learn the process, then cut what I have been told are two very fine joints. So yes, you can DIY. Just be confident in your abilities, but do practice before. Oh, and use the correct tools. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ProDave 2,837 Posted June 25 My advice if you are a novice and don't have professional tools, is to fit the units, get them fixed, nice and level and square, and then get a well trusted good joiner to come and cut and fit the worktops including the joint. You don't in years to come be looking at your less than perfect DIY corner joint. I know just the man up here but that is not much help to most. He did my Oak island worktop in a couple of hours: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daiking 359 Posted June 25 £750 says it’s worth a go Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daiking 359 Posted June 25 @joe90 @Oz07 I would just a buy the smaller size unit than try to make a big one smaller. moot anyway as the wall unit on the far right is the boiler and won’t be boxed in, so there will be space. this is our utility btw not our kitchen so a fair degree of bodge is acceptable Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Onoff 3,633 Posted June 25 Once you get really confident you can start designing and making your own jigs! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daiking 359 Posted June 26 The floor is tiled but probably not perfectly level. Likewise the walls are probably not level or square. I may very well tile the upstand/backsplash area all the way along which will go some way to hiding a small gap and prevent me having to scribe the worktop to fit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joe90 957 Posted June 26 Adjustable legs will take the problem out of an uneven floor, start at the lowest point, the kick board can always be cut down to fit the high spots (and you won’t notice it). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daiking 359 Posted August 5 I am not tackling this now and getting someone to do it. I do however have some pre-fitting snags to fix. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ferdinand 1,782 Posted August 12 (edited) Nice job. Edited August 12 by Ferdinand Share this post Link to post Share on other sites