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Hi guys I've got a Rak Gilberet toilet circa 2013, with a loose seat that needs tightening. It's a top access seat cover, nothing underneath the basin. I've got 2 problems: 1) I can't get the toilet seat off - It's not quick release, and when I try to remove it ,it just slides left and right but not far enough so that it can be removed 2) I can't tighten (or loosen) the screw holding the seat to the basin as it just keeps turning, so even if i could get the seat off i don't think it would help. please see attached photos for details. Any suggestions welcome. Regards DS

Hello. We had an extension built 14 years ago and the soil pipe from the loo and bathroom was re-routed through the extension roof. The loo is behind the window in the first photo. The bath/shower is to its right. I've noticed we often have water seepage from where the air pipe joins the boxed in soil pipe. At the moment there is a frozen stream of ice in that area. See photos. We have no history of loo blockages or slow drainage of the bath. Is the drained water backing up in the soil pipe? If we needed to get someone to investigate would the pipe have to be unboxed? Any thoughts appreciated.

Can anyone recommend? My experience with low/high usage pushbutton loos is that they have a habit of developing "trickle leaks", and wasting water until it is next checked. For me this is a problem with some tenants who naturally look a little less carefully than I do at home. Is there a good compromise flushing system which is both low water usage, relatively inexpensive and robust in not leaking? Thanks Ferdinand

Our site has main drainage and I was considering building a small shed to house a toilet and sink, instead of the ubiquitous blue turd-is. Any hints, tips and wise words on how I plumb in a toilet to the existing drainage on a temporary basis? The proposed shed will be about 5m from the nearest inspection chamber on the plot and about 600mm above the invert level.

Can someone advise what the placement of the waste pipes for toilets should be. Mine are concreted into the subfloor rising vertically for toilets to be attached. Toilets will back onto walls so what distance from the wall should the waste pipe be. Suspect that 2 of mine are too far out based on prospective plumbers comments, he didn't offer up a solution. Not sure I fancy having to dig concrete subfloor up to adjust/join pipework.

Evening all. Doing some 1st fit plumbing at the minute and the current task is to add a toilet to a run of soil pipe in the first floor joists. The pipe falls right to left, with a shower and basin on the right and the plan is to add the toilet between theses and where the pipe then goes dow into the ground floor on the left. I am now concerned that the jobbies may linger at the new joint and eventually cause problems.... Is this a fair concern? I have a feeling that the jobbies ought to be going in the general direction before they join the pipe - just to make sure they keep going in the right direction. I worry about things like this. Fall is 1:40. Any observations / help gratefully received. Thanks CC

As we move towards the point of selection of sanitary ware I have been looking for the ideal toilet bowl. These will be mounted on Gebrit Sigma frames/cisterns so wall hung and I will need 6 of them! I like the concept of Rimless but worry about the splashing! However I have come across the following: Villeroy & Boch direct Flush: And the Ideal Standard Aquablade: The direct flush as the open rim to reduce/eliminate splashing, the Aquablade is a new concept, basically the next generation of the rim for better flushing. Does anybody have any experience, comments or other options?

Hi, I went downstairs last night just before going asleep and noticed a damp patch on the kitchen ceiling. I got on a chair and it was definitely wet and covered a a few m2 area. Water was bubbling the paint on one of the walls. I turned off the mains and headed upstairs to figure out what was wrong. The area under the master bathroom toilet cistern was wet. I opened the lid and saw the water level was higher than normal. Not so high as to flood out of the top of the cistern but it was over the height of an overflow pipe. The pipe was "crimped" at the top but when I checked the exit point there was nothing plugged into it! So it just drained all over the floor of the bathroom. I've been living here for years but never realized this was put there by the builder decades ago until now. The reason the water level rose more than normal is that the ball cock was loose and allowed water reach a higher level than usual before it cut off. I've strapped the ball cock in a closed position and I'm planning to replace all 3 sets in the house (9l cisterns) with a more suitable dual flush alternative. This is the only cistern with an overflow, albeit one not going anywhere....! So, What's the best way to deal with this overflow pipe? Cap it top and bottom, remove or just plug the outlet where it exits below the cistern? Finally, any advice re: water damage to kitchen ceiling and wall? Do I let it dry out or at what point do you pull things down and re-plaster? I've downlighters so I'll need to isolate them until things dry out. Thanks