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Found 8 results

  1. Hi all, the damp is on an exterior wall garage / extension. There was previous water damage from a leaking roof. The roof has been replaced, drainage sorted but 2 months after the plaster has been put on we are getting signs of water through again. The moisture meter says 75 but we are using a de-humidifer and that has reduced it to 62 within 4 hours. We had a damp report done back in March and that did not identify any signs of rising damp on the property but now are unsure about what to do next.
  2. Hi all, Just come across these.... Capillary Tube Mats - Radiant Heat for Natural Air Conditioning (beka-klima.de) Not big in the UK but seem to have a presence on the continent particularly Germany. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with them? Cant see anything on here from a quick search? Cheers!
  3. Hello, looking for peoples thoughts on what these cracks might be on this house? Horizontal and vertical. The vertical cracks don't go through the brickwork to the ground, but the one near the corner where it goes into the window and out again at the top goes right through and can be seen inside. The walls are single block built 1960s. I am concerned it could be subsidence? But I would have thought the cracks would be seen going to the ground as that's where the movement would start? It looks like the cracks have been patched up in the past, but the plaster has cracked again! I would be grateful to hear peoples thoughts on what this might be! Thanks
  4. Our room sealed Element 4 Modore 75h gas fire was installed yesterday and we're planning to board & skim the fake chimney breast to finish it similar to the photo below. The temperature from the front of the fire can get up to 200 degrees Celsius. Can anyone suggest how best to finish the opening so it won't crack or discolour around the edges please?
  5. Morning Chaps. I had the plasterer come to see me ..Nice chap ..seems to know his onions! And he was discussing the "first Fix" (Board up single side phase) ..and he rightly pointed out areas and edges that need battening and finished so he can lay good board ..so I made notes He told me that I would need 18mm ply here and there for strength ...which was good advice I guess and then was asking me questions about the Plumber, Chippy and Sparks and when they were coming in ...so obviously a planner..if not a little "picky" which i dont mind So Discussion was made of 2 part payments one for first Fix and second for Finish board and Skim... its a new build and I am not sure what really to expect for Finish and skim and whether it has changed a lot from the old days of Browning scratch coat and then that Thistleboard super-smooth one I remember when i left school and TRIED to be a good labourer I have been told it would be better for me to buy the materials as I could claim the VAT back on my build, SO I said fine ...but the Labour seems to be a VERY different between the 3 quotes i have had .... I know its hard to visualise ....but its not a MASSIVE house ...its 3 bedroom detached with the only WEIRD bits worthy of note is that: a) it has a Sunroom (5x3m) which is about 50% glazed area ..the rest will need plastering b) 2 of the bedroom ceilings are "vaulted" I know this "blue-skying" ....but what would you EXPECT to pay for labour only to board and skim ... Does anybody have a good guess for me ?
  6. My neighbour has built a new block wall and I would like to render my side to tidy it up. I'm pretty sure my neighbour won't render his side and will leave it as exposed block. Am I wise rendering my side?
  7. Planning for plasterer to go over the old plastered walls with a thin skim. Of course I'd already started to prep the old walls by taking out old hooks, flaking paint etc. Now with with the humidity from the damp weather, I'm getting condensation on the walls which is evident along hairline cracks. Is there anything I can apply to prevent this (i.e. prevent the plaster soaking up any moisture) as I don't want to end up having to remove all the old plaster due to damage from the condensation. Plasterer is set to start in January, so only 5-6 wks time. There's no heating and the house is pretty open (not all doors in yet). Should I be worried? I've read of PVA, but is that going to cause an issue with the skim being applied later? I've read conflicting views about that.
  8. Just wondering what the normal protocol is for who cuts the holes in the plasterboard? We have fixed all the back boxes in and wired, plasters want to board and skim over everything, then electricians find and cut the holes, obviously the electricians vice versa... What is the norm?
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