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We have just had a new roof added to the conservatory. It seems like a good job. The only odd thing is where the flashing overlaps it has been deliberately folded into a triangle which seems to expose the tiles underneath. We have asked and they say it is deliberate but have given no explanation. We thing there should be more of an overlap to prevent moisture. These are light roof tiles. I have added a picture. It is the same for both joins. Can anyone explain?

We recently bought a small timber frame bungalow, which requires some repairs to the exterior render, as there is damaged to the section where the plinth meets the wall, I have attached pictures of the area. Unfortunately, so far we could not find anyone, who could offer use an explanation or solution to the problem. As seen on the picture attached the grey tape (which seems to be some sort of flashing tape) is broken and coming off on several areas around the house, exposing the metal edge guards and allowing cold and moisture into the walls, as on the interior the skirting boards are cold and when furniture are places directly on the wall causing condensation and mould. ( as a short term solution, We have now left a minimum of 10 cm between the furniture and the walls, which seem to solve the problem of sweating skirting boards and mould). Q1: Does anyone recognise what this exterior gab between the plinth and the wall is for?! is it just decorative or does it serve any purpose, like breathing of frame or expansion gab? Q2: can this gab be closed and the house completely covered with an additional layer of acrylic render? Q3: if the gab needs to be kept, how can we repair the damage? Any help and advice is greatly appreciated! PS: As far as we can tell the house is built up of the following layers, starting on the inside: plasterboard, yellow insulation wool, OSB board, insulation board, acrylic render with embedded mesh and sits on a concrete foundation.

I'm looking for some guidance on how to join a new timber frame to an existing wall. The timber frame will be clad with timber feather edge board so no brickwork to tie in with a wall starter kit. Do I just fix the timber stud to the brick wall with resin anchors, a vertical DPC and then some sort of flashing in the corner? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hoping the buildhub hive mind can help on this one. ? Our single storey wrap around extension was finished late last year but on taking heavy rain to the gable wall we’re ending up with damp patches in our new utility room. Flashing looks ok to my untrained eye but we do have a decent crack in the render above the utility room which could be culprit for water ingress. The problem is after just having a plasterer out to quote for the render repair he didn’t think it was the crack and the leak was down to the flashing. The render needs repaired which I’m happy to do as it was an existing crack but I’m conscious if that doesn’t fix the issue what is my angle for going back to builder regarding him coming back to look at the flashing and making sure the issue is sorted. apologies for multiple posts but couldn’t get the pictures up in one go due to file sizes.

good morning all ! We have the roofers starting next week (fingers crossed) and the chippys are just finishing the exterior battening to get teh render board on ....and its got me thinking about window detail (as you do!) now our house is almost IDENTICAL, to the image below ...which is one build around 7 years ago ...except Instead of a course of tile creasing on the plinth ....we have gone for cant plinth brick (3.1.1) As you can see (and its the same at the rear ...but the side doesnt have many windows (for planning happiness!) SOME of the windows on the lower floor will finish just above plinth brick ,,,and some of the windows upstairs will basically be flashed to the roof (dormer) and some will have to meet the rendered area (2 will) ... what would you suggest should be the window sill detailing ?... bearing in mind our plinth does not have an overhang but is finished FLUSH with external course (to avoid chipping) I mean i suppose i need to work out some way of the brickwork MEETING the render area ? as the flush plinth course doesnt really create a protruding sill ....someone suggested slanted "brick on edge"...hmmm with a tile crease, a plinth and a brick on edge ....LOL. I am thinking it could look "bitty" and non-consistent ... anyone got any suggestions? as usual it is appreciated

Hi all, me again looking for yet more of this wonderful forums collective knowledge. Weve got a dormer which is now going to be clad in horizontal timber cladding. So onto the frame will be a 25mm vertIcal batten and then the horizontal cladding. Its seems (from reading) that conventional wisdom is to slate the roof first with the appropriate front lead apron and soakers. Then add the timber cladding. However, the disadvantage to this plan is that I will need access across the slates to do the cladding which will risk damaging my 5mm thick nailed slates. I mentioned this this to a roofer I know today and he said (in something of a hurry as he was heading off to a job); "definitely clad it first, add a lead apron over the vertical battens, set off from the roofing battens (using a piece of timber) and then when you slate tuck your soakers under that apron". At the time that seemed to make sense. Now I've thought about it, I'm not really sure I understand the detailing Can anyone shed any light or suggest another way? A picture for clarity: Thanks